5523Pathfinder

Yep, it has two vacuum hoses attached on top and one on the bottom. The bottom hose is connected to a hard line that supplies pressure from the exhaust. That small hose is a very common problem on most nissans that use a EGR system. See that lots of times. That hard line, as explained above, does plug with carbon after a while and may need to be cleaned. The BPT(Back Pressure Transducer) valve is fairly easy to test. Apply pressure to bottom of valve, them apply vacuum to one side of the valve on top and as you apply and remove pressure, you should have or not have vacuum. Even the EGR valve itself is easy to test. The quick way is to push lightly on the diaphram on the bottom of the EGR valve. When the engine is running, you will feel it misfire. Let go and it will idle normally again. I have seen the system not work correctly if the exhaust systems has been modified and the backpressure has been reduced(removal of the catalyst or or muffler, or even too large of exhaust pipe), but thats onlky been a few.

Check your BPT valve operation. If its not working correctly(leaking), they make a constant ticking noise. Usually I find the rubber pressure hose under it has split open and is leaking. This will prevent the EGR valve itself from operating.

I believe they were called Desert Runners(like the one GG posted). Nissan revived the name in, I think, with the Frontier Desert runner badging. Not the same rig though.

Your trans codes are strange. You may have a throttle position sensor issue. Look up NTB98-024a for more info. There is a countermeasure TPS available.

Yep, the replacement is pretty much the same. But here are the teeth numbers you wanted....

Mine was leaking at the top of the rear window weatherstrip. I could see streaks down the glass everytime I washed it. I took some small vacuum hose and made a small slit in the weatherstrip. I sprayed silicone lube in the slit and on the piece of vaccum hose. Slid the hose into the slit and down the weatherstrip. Sealed the end with some weatherstrip adhesive and let dry. Its been fine ever since.

Here is a pic of the adapter you will need if you dont want to rewire everything. These work for Bose systems. Ive used several of them and they work fine for those who dont want a huge system or thier stock amp is ok. Similar to the one from Crutchfield, just a little older and different brand.

Water can puddle in the spark plug holes around the plug wires. It can cause a misfire. I clean mine once and while and just be careful around the plug holes. If water does get in there and thats what you find, but blow the hole out with some compressed air or a shop vac and suck it out.

How bigf is your system? Maybe time to upgrade to a capacitor!

Hit 150,000 miles last night...... Oh yeah, forgot to add that Im still averaging 18mpgs(mostly freeway)

It wouldnt hurt to clean your Air flow meter. See the write up in the how-to section. for some, thats helped a bunch.

Do not touch the throttle body screws!!! They are preset and if you move them, you can damaged the trottle chamber! As far as the tune up goes, simple hand tools is all you need. The Cap, Rotor and Fuel filter can be removed with a screwdriver. You will need a ratchet, couple of extensions, wobbly adapter and a spark plug socket(5/8ths), or use the spark plug tool. I would recommend using a vacuum or compressed air to clean the plug holes before you remove the spark plugs as debris may fall into the cylinder (bad, bad, bad). You may have other issues besides needing a tune up. Check the ECU for codes and maybe replace the O2 sensor and go from there.

Well, up here in the great northwest, we have lots of trees to dodge. My brother, me and a few friends call it Stump Jumpin' or plain ol' Wheelin'.

I mounted mine amp on the right rear side panel. Anchored into the metal behind the panel. Drilled a small hole to fit wires through. Its secure not as easy to see as you think.

Rear disc or drum brakes? If they are drum you may need to adjust the rear shoes. See if you can get a clear piece of tube to watch the brake fluid come out. You will be able to see the bubbles if you still have air.

Mazda may have a similar problem as Nissan did with the Altima. They did not have a decent ground and would burn the bulbs out rather quickly. There was a recall to install a new ground plate. In some cases, the bulbs got hot enough to burn through the housing.

Check this out in the Garage How-to section... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19755

There used to be a whole list of speedo gears in the Nismo catalog. I lowered a Frontier at my old dealer and we swapped out the speedo gear to compensate for different wheels and tires.

Have the ignition coils been replaced? Seen many a misfire issue and its caused by the coils, especially when hot. they wont always throw codes either.

Ok, well lets see..... Are you using 4 low when pulling out of a parking space? If you are, then yest you are feeling some binding, and this is normal. Slip needs to occur to reduce binding(its like driving in 4wd on dry pavement, no slip occuring). Tight turns are tough on everything. Have you had the rear diff fluid changed recently? Does it have the LSD? How about your trans fluid condition?

You are going to need another person run the switch while you search for the leak. Depending where its leaking, it may just be running down the fender. I would look near the windshield cowl and see if one didnt just fall off or is leaking. You can get inline repair fittings at any parts store. One of the pumps is for the rear window washer btw.

Oh man! I just got done reading this and had a customer that came in with a vibration on his G sedan. On the test drive he tells me that he just had his 20in rims removed and reinstalled his facotry wheels. He took it back twice and they couldnt figure it out. I put it up on the rack and removed the wheels. I found that Les Schab forgot to remove the centering rings from his 20's. Went ahead and bolted the wheels up and crammed them down, not toqued. The customer is not so happy with them now. Thought it was kind of funny, myself!

There are in-line heaters for the heater hoses. The dealer used to offer them, but not sure anymore. There are similar aftermarket versions as well as oil pan heaters.

Yep check the blower motor and case for leaves and stuff. See it here... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7466 My heater works great. A little slow when cold, but get moving and it cooks me out. Also make sure you have the mode door to fresh air and not recirculate. Have you had the cooling system serviced or checked recently? T-stat replaced?

Yeah, its not that tough. Get the proper size tap and some anit-sieze lube. Run the tap in with the anti-sieze on the threads. Remove, clean and repeat. Install bolt by hand to make sure it goes in. Reassemble as needed.