5523Pathfinder

Sounds like time for a tap and die set and a new bolt

AC has several options.. https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=435_430_429 You could aslo try Ebay maybe....

The boots tend to rip when you crank the bars a little too high. I did this, then lowered them a touch and its been fine since. With any modification, there are some things that may pop up no matter what you do. Searching and reading will help you a ton if you got some time. As for the diff, get a manual! Lots of things you want to be careful of!! Oh, and if your worried about changning things, have you changed the timing belt?

Well, it depends on the locker. The mechincal ones you are just replacing the spider gears. Air lockers you remove the gears only and swap in the locker, drill holes, run air lines and reassemble. Always do a good inspection after you have it out. Make all the necessary checks before disassembly to help reasssembly. New synthetic fluid is always a good idea. Have you worked on many differentials?

Yeah, not trying to mean, just help you out. Lockers have been covered a lot and there is a lot of good info from guys (myself included) that have used the lockers and how well they worked. Its hard to explain that all over again!!

Dont be afraid to use the search function! Lockers have been covered many times. Even a product review if I remember. Air and mechanical are your choices! http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...4&hl=locker

Id be a guinea pig if I was on the other side of the mountians and I had a spare ECU laying around. I might try and find one, just gotta have time to do some poking around. The Pathy is getting a workout right now being the daily driver while the weather is bad and my pickup has a cracked radiator. I could have some real numbers rather quickly as I drive near 100 miles a day.

Here's a wiring diagram to help you. Its with the intermittent wiper option.

Ok, so I changed the timing belt on my 2000 Quest I just bought. It has a 3.3l in it. The timing belt replacement is 105,000 miles. Well, this is why you replace them at the interval. I pulled this belt off and the engine was at 138,000 miles. Changed it just in time... That thing was not going to last much longer!!!

The intake mainfold is a dead giveaway. Some actually said Maxima on the motors. If it has manifolds attached, it shoudl be a dead giveaway. IF not, the oil pan is different, very different. Just take a good look at your motor and compare.

Yes, make sure its not on recirculate. I accidently did this once and it was pissing me off. Then I realized that I forgot I switched it earlier. Duh, gotta pay attention....

Heres a factory wiring diagram if it helps...

Well, as I have stated in other threads, there are some bad mechanics out there. Some are just trained wrong from the begining. They are also usually the ones who dont take pride in thier work and will screw anyone to make a buck. Lack of customer service in this industry is killing it. As for me, I worry about 3 things when interacting with customers. One- am I being professional enough to back my work if they want to come out and look at what I am doing for them. Two- How is what Im doing making my company look? Threee- how am I representing my product(in this case Infiniti). As you can see, one guy who doesnt give a crap what he does, makes all three look bad. This is what drives customers away. Oh, and if Im wrong, I got no problem figuring out what happend, for free. I will explain that if it is something else or a coincidence, it may cost them. But I will work with them so they come back. So, anyway, dont judge one company on one idiot. Some may try to save you some money and give you excellent work. But if otherwise, try a different location or company all together.

It may run for quite some time as it, or it could damage something tomorrow. My hardbody pickup does the same thing now and again. The previous owner didnt maintain it very well. I performed a enigne flush and been changing the oil every 3500 miles. Get some cleaner, put it in, let it run for 30 minutes, then change the oil. Hopefully that will buy you some time. the lifters are not that hard. Well, the right side is easy cause nothing is in your way. Remove the valve cover and removed the lifter mount bolts, then remove the lifters. soak the new lifters in oil, then install.

Most engine cleaners are a pour in deal. Pretty hard to screw it up. Well, its a hydraulic lift and it doesnt hold oil. Yes, it should run close to normal, but can create issues if you leave it that was for too long. How hard is what to do?

Well, if you are going to use synthetics, use them everywhere. But, once you use them, dont go back. The added life of synthetic fluid should balance cost. Me, I use what we have at work, Kendall synthetic blend 5w-30. I also change my oil every 3500-4000. Oil comes out a little dark, but not bad. Heres my 2 cents... Motor Oil: Your choice 5 or 10w-30, just dont use cheap no-brand stuff Manual Transmission: Redline MT-90 Trasfer Case: Auto trans fluid. Mercon/Dexron 3. Ive ran that for the longest time with very little problems in my rig and my customers rig Rear Diff: 80-90 Front Diff: 80-90 Other? Like I said, if you want to run synthetics, make them all synthetic to get the best bang for the buck. AS for additives, well, its up to you if you want to spend the extra cash. Regular inspection and maintenence will also go a long way.

Yeah, sounds like a lifter to me. If it was the manifold, it would louder when cold. As it heats up, it will quiet down a bit. Of course, the worse it gets, the louder it will stay. Have you changed the oil recently and on time? You could try getting the engine flushed or buy some over the counter flush just before you change your oil (some here like Seafoam, but there are others). If it is the lifters, you said its on the passenger side and thats the easy side!

We were cutting keys way before 96! Have your local dealer run your vin through Nissannet. If you have a older vin number(you may, 93 and all), they may need to make a phone call and get your key code. The only thing that may stop them, is if the original selling dealer did not copy it down when the purchase was final.

You could unbolt the upper 2 links at the axle and that should give you a bit more room. If not, used a big prybar to lean on the axle a bit.

There are many aftermarket weld in mufflers that can be used. Search on here a little as some have installed several different kinds of mufflers and pipe. As far as two seperate mufflers, I dont recommend it. If you used some sort of Y or H pipe you may be ok, but if may cost a lot more.

Well, if I read his profile correctly, he has a 02. The 02's are not covered by the recall. Look here to see the Tsb and vin info... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18505

Here is a view of the Evap system including the On Board Refueling valve. I havnt found the exact way to test it in the manual, but im looking for it. I may have to print if off of ASIST, scan it and post it when I find it. But this gives you the general idea..... I would go get the code pulled and copy it down and let us know what it is. Hopefully that will help isolate the possibilties. Most parts stores will hook up a scanner and tell you what the code is for free.

You can pull the cluster and tighten the brass screws holding the printed circuit board in place. Also a good time to inspect the board for any damage. Most likely, as posted above, time for a new unit..

The valve in the tank is call the On Board Refueling Valve. It is not replacable on its own. You hvae to get the whole tank. I would make sure the breather on your fuel filler neck is not blocked. Its the smaller tube thats on the neck. Also, how many times has this happened? When filling, you can only put so much fuel in at a time. Some refueling stations have pumps that fill faster. You may want to try a different station and see if it still occurs.

Grab the haser core hoses and see how hot they are. Has the coolant been service recently. There is a air relief plug that can be removed and "burp" the air out. Sounds like a thermostat might be stuck. Also, if it was serviced, that the water to coolant ratios is correct. You may have a mode door stuck. Look under the dash and you will be able to notice the motors operate as you push different buttons. Make sure the motors have full movement, and go from there.