5523Pathfinder

Yep, in the Northwest states section..... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25723

Hey Jim! Gald to see you are still kickin'! Yeah, im pushing the next MrJim run. I didnt hear you had a issue with your rig since the oil change debacle. As for the starting issue, what does it do? Are you sure its not just the inhibitor relay going out? That relay is right next to the battery on the right fender. Its blue and has two connectors. Have someone tap on it while you try to start it. Might be a easy fix, unless you have something else wierd going on. Anyway, glad to hear from you! Derek

Nope. Differential gearing. Your transmission has multiple gear ratios.

Nice find! Wanna know something crazy? Im pretty sure I worked on that thing some years ago. I used to work at the Nissan dealer in Olympia. Good luck with your new truck!

Can you duplicate the problem with the truck sitting still? Or when driving under load? What I am getting at this there may be more steps you need to take. If you can dup it holding still, I would pull a plugwire and use a screwdriver, or a in-line spark tester, and check the spark to see how strong it is. A weak spark is typically orange, while a good spark is more blue. You could also connect a timing light to verify you are getting spark signal down each of the plug wires. This might eliminate a distributor causing you issue. Having the issue being after drivng for 30 minutes kind of rules out most things. Everything is warmed up by then. You may have to drive it a few more times and see if you can get a code to pop up. You gotta tough one on your hands, but take your time and you will get it.

It does sound like the crank angle sensor, to me. Have you checked for codes at the ECU? If it is throwing a CAS code, its time for a new distributor. This is a very common problem. It might not hurt to remove the dizzy cap, rotor and the small plate covering everthing. Look for possible wear, debris and even corrosion. Go to the Garage section and into the How-To's, and there is a thread on how to pull your codes. Post them up and we can go from there.

Well, our speedos and tachs, well, suck. Yes, they do fail quite regularly. some who have put in a new one, have had good luck with it working for a long time. I am one of those people. I would hunt for one in a J/Y and swap it in and see if it takes care of the problem.

well, Im thinking either the fuse is already pulled/failed, the ABS control unit under the seat is done(let out the factory smoke), or possilby a wiring issue. Find the fuse and check it and go from there.

Did you keep it grounded, or take it off? I usually keep it grounded until the light flashes. That was the right plug. Now when I click on the picture, it show a VIN sticker!

ITs actually pretty easy. Disconnect the driveline, pull the pinion nut, pull the pinion flange, unbolt sensor and pull it out. You may have to replace the seal also. You could also hook up a DVOM to the sensor and test the sensor. You would have to ge the tires off the ground, put it in neutral, and give the rear wheels a spin. The meter should show a spike then drop as you rotate. I guess you could do the same with a analog meter now that I think about it. Basicly the same procedure as testing a speed sensor, cause thats all it really is.

If you have repaired your problem, the next key cycle should clear the code. This is why you have to perform this test with the engine running, perferably after you have driven it a few minutes. The ABS system tests itself upon every startup. Then, as you drive, it tests itself and the signals coming into it. If the light does not go out, you probably have a "hard" failure.

Yeah, the 98's evap system is just a bit different. There is still a line that runs up to the intake. It passes right nest to the brake master cylinder, and has a port for testing. Just follow that to the intake. It does sound like the Vent Control Valve is your problem. Though, there is two valves called the Vacuum Cut Valve, and the Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Vavle that can cause some issues. These valve are near the canister, inline with each other. One is a solenid the other is vacuum operated. After you replace the canister and vent control valve, drive it for awhile and post up what happens.

Just for giggles, you didnt install the Air Flow Meter backwards? Didnt leave anything unplugged(electrical)? Pull the codes and post them up(you can have this done for free at most parts houses). I have installed several of these intakes on 3.5's and never had to do the Idle Air Volume Relearn.

I think we can all argee that our fuel gauges are no where near correct. The best way to figure out your gauge and fuel mileage, it to fill the tank, and drive until its empty. Keep a 5 gallon fuel can on hand(full, unless you like to walk). Several people have ran thier tank down to as close as 20 gallon fillup! The low fuel light should come on with about 4 gallons to spare(if yours works). I have seen your other threads and you may have some other issues that are hindering your fuel mileage.

Yes, your truck has a EGR temp Sensor. Its just below, and in behind of, the sensor you pointed out in your picture. It is usually do to the lack of EGR flow, or too much flow. Check the operation of your EGR system and go from there...

Well, IIRC, most ABS systems to dont operate at low speeds(somewhere around 15mph[12 IIRC]). So worring about the ABS operating when offroading is kind of a moot point. Besides, when there is a ABS failure, the ABS is automaticly bypassed and regular braking(no ABS) takes over. Now, there is the possible acutator sticking, but you are only talking about rear ABS on our rigs. If they have a issue, there is only so many things it can be. Personally, the rear ABS has helped me several times on the road when some yahoo hits the brakes, and I had to do the same. Makes a nice barking noise withe 33's installed!

Here you go...

Checking ABS and ECU codes are completely different. ECU codes can be checked at the ECU. ABS codes must be checked after drivuing and still have the engine running. There is a Blue(should be) connector under the left side of the dash near the fuse panel. This the connector you need to ground to get codes. If you have the FSM or any manual, it should tell you exactly what pin to ground. Once you ground it, the light will flash on the dash. I will try and copy the procedure from Alldata....

The newer Pathfinder, Xterra and Frontier do not fit our rigs(05-current). They use a smaller pattern. The Titan, Armada, QX56 wheels will fit, but will need to have the centers machined. I know this from putting of set of factory QX56 wheels on my old hardbody pickup. Oh, if the wheels use a centercap or hubcap, they may not fit after machining(at least not 4WD), due to the hubs in the front.

When my friend and I changed his sparkplugs in his 05 frontier, we just loosened the plenum and pulled it up as needed to gain access to the plugs. Bungy cords come in handy! The plenum uses reuseable o-rings to seal to the lower manifold.

Drive up here and let me hear it already!

Most likely, the all-mode system is trying to operate. If you have bypassed the system, it may still be looking for the front wheel speed input, and activating the transfer case to get them to spin. I think your best option is to swap in a older manual transfer case and off the electronics....

You need backpressure to make the EGR work. It uses backpressure at the BPT valve, which opens up and allows vacume to the EGR valve and allowing exhaust gas to recirculate. Punching out the cat does very little as far as performance. You can get a high flow cat that will keep you legal and pass emission tests if you have them. The easy way to check the EGR is to push up on the valve from underneath and see if the idle speed begins to stumble(you could to the same with a vacuum pump, if you wanna get technical). You also want to check the hose(rubber) on the bottom of the BPT valve. This hose is about 2in long and is very prone to rotting out on just about all nissan vehicles.

I run the factory shock on mine. It does just fine. Matter of fact, its been installed for almost 4 years now. Certianly helps with bump-steer.

What do you mean? The filter isnt that hard to remove. But, I have done 1345643 oil changes on pathfinders. All you have to do is reach down over the right fender next to the manifold and twist it off. Put a pan underneath to catch the oil. If you have to, you can get a oil filter wrench down there to loosen the filter. Now, if you have headers, thats a different story....