5523Pathfinder

Bolt pattern is different, first of all. Plus, internal gearing is different. I can try and look up the ratios tomorrow, if you really want to know.

So, you live in Montreal and your rig is not undercoated? How many miles do you have on your rig? These things happen. Im suprised this is not covered under your corrosion warranty. I might have to go look into that.... Boy! You hit that on the head!

B, I still think a injector flush would help. As for your other codes, there is a few TSB's....NTB99-004b And......NTB01-048A to reprogramm the ECM...

What about a fuel injector leaking? Im assuiming this happens when its hot(engine)? The fuel could be leaking into the cylinder and, if its hot enough, it may be combusting. All most the same thing as pinging. Try hooking up a fuel pressure tester and start it, then stop. Pressure should hold for quite some time. Just thought I would throw that out there....

9500? Sold! Good price for what it is. Plus, you will like the 4.0L! I drive approx 100 miles everyday on I-5. I average 18mpg doing somewhere around 60-70mph. Maintenence hasnt been that bad, but Im tech so it doesnt bother me.

For those of us who said to maybe get another rig, I think its a simple matter of math. Does the Time+Money(for parts/metal)= more or less than a different rig. Hey, if you have the skill and the materials, do what you want. Im sure you can tell this will not be a quick project. I would say that you are going to have a tough time getting it square again as the body is already sagging, but im no welder, so WTH do I know! Good luck with either decision!

I was thinking the exact same thing!

Wow! Now that I have seen some pictures, wow! Im not to sure you want to be driving that. I would almost consider it time to find a new rig! Taking the body off of the frame and fixing the entire thing sounds like the other way to go.

Ummm, are you looking to lift your rig? Or lower it? I can only think of one off hand. 4x4parts.com may have what you are inquiring about. Try this... https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-lowering-coils-p-5662.html

Here you go. Follow the link!!! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1255

Well, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but, you probably have bent valves. It sounds like nothing is contacting because the contact has already been made. Once the valves are damaged, they dont typically continue to move(stuck, ect). Thats why you have that "freewheeling" sound when you crank it. Also, the chances of no damage when a belt breaks, is somewhere of 1000-1(if you really lucky that is). You can try an put a new belt on it, then test for compression with a gauge. This will ultimately give you your answer.

Jim truck(MrJim) had dual exhaust on it. It had a single in, dual out flomaster on it. It sounds ok, but i dont think it helped much in the way of performance. I had two glasspacks on my 91 300zx. It was a nonturbo, but it had a great sound. Nice deep tone at idle, but under accleration it sounded like a screaming indy car(well, thats what others said). In our rigs, a H pipe or X pipe might help. But, we have a lovely crossover pipe that chokes power out. Stick with a single outlet. Get a highflow cat, a nice muffler and a decent tip if you are worried about looks.

They must be selling it to fund other projects? Seems like it would be a better idea to give it away. Buy $100 worth of Calmini stuff, you get one entry. Wait a month and give it away. Dont know too many people that would spend 15k on a hardbody...

First thing I would suggest is downloading the Factory Service Manual to help in in any diagnosis. Ok, code 51 is for the Injector circuit. Basicly what is going on is that the ECM is picking up a signal from the O2 sensor, that a particular "pulse" is either running rich or lean. Now, there can be several causes of this. First, the obvious. Thats a leaking injector. To find if you do have a leaking injector, I would pick up a fuel pressure test kit. This will "T" into the fuel line just after the fuel filter. Turn the key on, then off, and watch the fuel pressure. It should hold between 30-50psi for quite some time. If it drops sooner than that, you probably have a injector sticking open. How do you tell which injector? Well, first you can try unplugging them one at a time. This will only eliminate a electrical fault with the injector. Next, I would pull the plugs and inspect them one at a time. A plug that has raw fuel on it, is probably getting wetter than it should. There may also be carbon buildup on the plug from not burning off during combustion. At this time, its also good to make sure the rest of your ignition system is operating properly(plugs, wires, cap & rotor). Any problems with those may cause misfire, possibly creating your code. Now, there are other factors that may also cause this problem. Those could be the O2 sensor itself, Air Flow Meter, EGR system, Timing, Air leaks, the ECM and possibly something else(bad ground, ect). Ask yourself a few questions quick so we know what condition your rig is in.... When was the last full tune up? What other maintenence has been performed? Anything else going on with the vehicle(ie:poor fuel mileage)? Lets go from there and see where you get. Post up your results or other questions you might have!

One part.........AIV. that is all.

You think the TBI units are simpler? No way. Much easier to diag a MPFI unit, hands down. Go with a 4 door. You can actually have friends go with you.

Yep. Take a look at this and you will know why.... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2621

Not replacing the pads with new rotors will also cause noise. Think of it like a leaf rake on a glass window. You want good contact area, with a non directional cut on the rotors. This creates friction, and better brake operation. They will eventually wear into each other and work at a optimal rate. But all things wear eventually.

Flat rate times are not just for dealers though. Hopefully, your repair facility uses a time book system, like Alldata or Mitchell. These times should be the normal. When I worked at Nissan(now Infiniti), brake job times were as follows... Brake pad replacement w/rotor resurface only - 2.0hrs Brake pad replacement w/rotor resurface + Bearing repack - 3.5 Brake pad replacement w/rotor replacement + Bearing repack - 3.0 (These would be times based on our rigs or any Nissan 4x4 with similar parts.) How fast did I do each? Just pads and resurface, just about 1 hour. With bearing repack, somewhere around 2 hours.

Im thinking you got something mixed up. As a dealer tech, they probably meant you have 2mm left of your brake pads. The rotor thickness, is much more than that. If you want to keep them honest, ask them to take you out to your vehicle and show you what it needs. Ask them to keep the old parts so you can inspect them yourself. As far as the price, well, there are some things to consider. Yes, cheap brake pads and rotors can be purchaced, if you ask them for it. You are going to a Nissan Dealer and maybe you want Nissan parts. The price of factory parts are of course, higher. Some good/great aftermarket parts are just as much. Next you have to consider who is working on your vehicle. You are at a dealer and hopefully the tech working on your rig has years of Nissan experience. You pay for that. You can go cheaper and have some yahoo who doesnt know your rig that well, and well, thats a crap shoot. He may or may not get it right. Personally, I have fixed stuff I have found for people for free while I was working on thier vehicle(I did this today for a customer). Having the work done anywhere, should offer a warranty. Nissan dealers have a 12month, 12,000 mile warranty on parts AND labor if something should go wrong. Doing some of this yourself is always rewarding. Replaced brake pads and rotors is pretty straigt forward. Repacking the bearings is not tough at all. You just need the right tools. Thats were your frustration will set in, if you dont have the right tool. I do beleive there is a writeup somewehre about how to repack your bearings. Just something to think about.... Hey, I dont ask the hobo on the corner begging for change, if he wants to give me a physical.

Yep, that will work. Remember you need to "overfill" the trans to the new amount(as stated in the TSB). Easiest way is through the shifter hole.

Did you go through and read the whole thread? Maybe you missed it, but Jim himself posted/wrote this himself..... http://www.komonews.com/younews/53043907.html Pretty much explains it. Thanks for taking the time to read it. Nice to see new members take notice of what kind of community we have here!

Manual trans or automatic? Manual trans you want to use GL4 gear oil(there is a little debate to this, see the TSB) Diffs- 80-90w is best (im currently running synthetic 75-90w) Transfer- yes, stick with Mercon/Dextron III. We use Valvoline Max Life here at the shop. Works pretty good IMHO. (there is some debate here as well) Auto trans- Same as transfer. Though, you will want to add a external trans cooler(many trans have met thier maker due to buildup in the factory cooler), they you want to "flush" the trans for best possible results. Engine oil- thats your call. Most stick with 5w-30, in a variety of brands. I currently use Kendall Synthetic-blend myself. There are several threads about different fluids if you want even more info and testimonials. Yes, the search function is a bit funky, but use it and see what you find.

Jared.... .....Hope we get to meet in another life! RIP!