KovemaN

I've got some NOS Nissan brush guards (headlight loops) for sale if you find a grill guard without them.

I own a D21. I'm on #7 now. It's a regular cab 4x4. She's on 33's now, but she's not running

Yes. Sorry I didn't include that.

You can shift from 2h to 4h on the fly up to 35mph. Most, if not all pathfinders came with auto locking hubs. You would need to come to a stop for the auto hubs to completely disengage, but it won't hurt anything if they are always engaged. Once the transfer case lever is shifted back to 2H the transmission is completed disconnected from the front differential so there is no chance of damage even with the hubs engaged.. Shifting from 4H to 4L requires that you be stopped with the transmission in neutral.

If you have a good hydraulic shop then you should probably have a decent auto parts store. Custom can be nice, but direct fit with a lifetime warranty for 1/5 OEM price can't really be beat unless you have to warranty out the part often and I have never had a new assembly fail.

The good thing about the cheap lines from the auto parts stores is that they have a lifetime warranty.

This says it all to me. If the cup holding the bushing was gone or you rebuilt it, you may be pushing the bottom of the UCA forward too much or too little. When I first rebuilt my compression rod bushings I started with a fairly thick washer. After staring at it for a while I realized that it would throw the caster off pretty bad so I found some thinner washers and built new cups again.

The most common cause of UCA bolts being lost isn't due to the lift, but the loss of alignment shims on rough terrain. Once one shim slips out the bolt is loose. I lost all the shims on one side on my last wheeling trip, but I got lucky and didn't lose the bolts completely before I got home. I now use thin stainless washers for alignment. There is absolutely no possibility of them falling out. I've been setting the alignment myself for a few years now and I trust my work much more than any shop. My tire shop checks the alignment for free when I go in for balance/rotation and then I adjust the washers accordingly.

Fuel pump went out 80 miles from home and 50 miles from the pavement. A tow could have easily cost $600-1000 and I'm not even sure anyone would have taken the job due to the terrain. I had to leave the truck overnight and hope nobody would mess with it. I pulled the fuel pump relay and ECU fuse just to be safe. I returned the next day with a new fuel pump and everything I needed to get the job done. After pulling the bed to get to the pump I noticed that the wiring to the pump had been cut and spliced. When I pulled the connector it had pretty bad corrosion so I cleaned the contacts and plugged it back it. The damn thing fired right up after that and drove home just fine. At least I got to return the unused fuel pump.

The few times I've had bad or damaged parts, RockAuto shipped out a new one for free. I didn't even need to send back the part. I do prefer OEM parts for engine and emission control sensors though.

I've considered using the A/T cooler for the power steering, but since I'm not running hydraulic assist, I didn't feel it was worth the hassle. I don't think anything bad can happen if they aren't plugged or capped.

When I bored Titans for my D21 I didn't take it all the way through. I took off just enough clear the bearing cap on the front hubs. I wasn't uncomfortable with it like that, but I wouldn't want to punch a 4" hole all the way through due to the shape of the casting.

Titan rims are perfect for street driving on low profile rubber, but they would be horrible for off-road due to the backspacing/rubbing issues mentioned above. They would also look pretty stupid with 4wd hubs sticking out the side of them. Bottom line: They look clean and tuck nicely for 2wd, but for a 4wd they would be a costly eyesore.

It looks like you only need shocks and sway bar bushings. Your upper ball joint and tre boots look good.

The process is actually pretty simple. Jack up the front and put it on stands, unbolt the shock from the body, compress the shock and pull it to the side of the UCA, jack under the lower control arm to relieve pressure on the UCA, unbolt the upper ball joint from the UCA and unbolt the UCA spindle from the body. It really doesn't take very long, but I'm not sure how tough it is to replace the stock bushings. All my trucks have aftermarket arms.

I found driving without the front bar to be nothing short of scary at highway speeds. My DD has a 3" body lift with no rear sway bar and the body roll is acceptable. Some sort of quick release for the front would probably be your best bet.

Is there any reason that you aren't going to use 63" Chevy leaf springs for the rear? Even the Toyota guys swap them in for flex and availability.

I've been DDing my lock-rite equipped Pathfinder for over a year now with few complaints. The only times I notice it are: low speed tight turns, goosing it during a turn (slight chirp) or getting in/out of power when on the highway (slight shimmy). I only notice the ratcheting sound when I have the window down driving next to a wall. I don't ever perceive any friction when it ratchets.

I've wheeled with a 33" MT, hi-lift and two 5 gallon cans on the back with no issues.

I've had them on my bicycles and motorcycles for as long as I can remember. Pretty handy tool.

I plan on installing a reverse light on the bumper. I bought the tires from Big O. They are just called "Mud Claw Radial M/T". I have seen them branded by Sigma and Wild Country. They have performed perfectly on all surfaces and that really surprised me. I have run them in mud, rocks, sand and snow and they have done as well or better than any other tires that I have used. They are a little loud, but they are a mud tire. If I had know how well they would perform I would have dropped the extra cash and picked up a matching spare.

Blacked out my tail lights:

Replaced my UCA anchor bolts and alignment spacers that had shaken loose on my last wheeling trip. Even if you check everything before a trip, you can still have random crap go bad. I'm just lucky they didn't let go.

I have those exact same wheels and I highly doubt that they have any more than 4" backspacing. They are most likely 15x8 with 4" or 3.75" BS. With 33s you will be rubbing in a couple of spots. Be prepared for it and don't let your new tires get chewed up by the body.