Tungsten

2 inch clamp would work fine

Most new cars do not have an EGR valve.

Mine looks like that.

You can do this with a set of gauges but you will need to create a vacuum in the system first. The charge machine does this and then it has a special charging algorithm where it changes the charge rate based on high and low side pressure differences as it is charging. After adding the refrigerant, it adds oil back to the system. Here is the one I used after replacing some of my A/C components: The results were great. My A/C system still works years later after fixing it the right way.

The advantage of the machine is that it has its own onboard compressor to vacuum everything out of your system. You can do this with a good set of gauges but you will need a way to create vacuum in the system before charging it. If you leave air in the system, you will overheat and blow the compressor. As far as the compressor seal goes, you should be able to replace one if it's leaking. If you do it the right way, the system will work for as long as it has before or more.

That's the thing with natural disasters. You never know where they will strike and how hard. Even if you can predict it with weather stations a few days in advance, the most you can do is warn people.

There is a safety switch for the compressor to turn off but it's really bad to be draining it as it's running since you are draining out the oil for the compressor as well. Those charge cans with leak stop/sealer can also plug up the evaporator and condenser. You get for what you pay for, a cheap and crappy fix.

Nevermind missed that... In that case, get it recharged by a machine. You don't want those crappy leak sealers in your condenser or evaporator plugging things up.

this was about as good as rap has ever got

The custom installed sun roofs are indeed way better than factory ones. I saw some like that at the junkyard thinking they were later model OEM power sun roofs but apparently not.

Peel back the carpet and remove the cover. It should be obvious.

Those bolts are not much fun to get to. I think there are two of them. If you are going to remove the oil filter you might as well change the oil at that time too. Maybe you could wiggle it out with the oil filter out of the way. Good to know! I did mine at the same time with the headers so it was easy. From what I have heard people have had to pull the motor mount. Maybe they have big hands?

I know EGR valves kill certain model Nissans for sure. I think it's the 4 banger Sentras and Altimas. What happens is the primary catalytic converter starts falling apart and since the EGR valve tube is placed after the converter, the pieces of the catalyst that fall off get sucked through the EGR port right back into the intake. Those pieces end up in the combustion chamber where the pistons and valves get crunched.

New Bosch is the way to go for starters. The only other alternative to that is a reman from the dealership. I put a reman Nissan one in mine a while back and it still works great but that was before I found out about the Bosch starters. That location is horrible to get to unless you either remove the motor mount or the exhaust manifold.

I said this before and I'm going to say it again... Avoid using charge cans. They are only good for a few thousand miles before your system loses all of its refrigerant again. Get a can with UV dye in it and put it in. Find where the leak is. Replace the part that is leaking and have the system professionally charged with a machine. The machine will correct the pressure between the high and low lines and your air conditioning system will be good for many more miles for you to enjoy. If you charge with a can and lose the refrigerant, you are at risk of ruining the compressor when the refrigerant runs out again.

Isn't there a sticker under the hood? I know there is on mine. You should also be able to find this information on the compressor.

Now that you have it charged, find out what made it discharge. The system is closed and should never lose the refrigerant unless there is a leak. They usually leak from the drier rusting out. Fix the leak and get the system charged professionally. It's much better than using a charge can because the machine will actually correct the pressure between the high and low lines.

That makes sense. Disconnecting the TPS makes the shifts late and rough. I can see how a TPS out of adjustment can cause it.

Nice hood pins.

I agree the dealerships tend to hire the worst parts people they can find.

You should be very careful with replacing the belts. If you tension them too much you can ruin the bearings. If you tension them too little then the belt will not last long. It's better to have a little less tension than a little more as belts are cheaper and faster to replace. You don't want to bust any bearings, believe me. I have replaced the water pump twice now because shops like to overtighten the v-belts during service. I'm doing all this stuff myself from now on. Don't be lazy!

While the CV axles are disengaged in 2wd, they will still flex as you turn the wheels. Usually you would only hear them if they are rotating while turning but it's possible that they are clicking when turning without rotating.

If you have to use mid-grade gas, doesn't that negate the extra power benefit of the ECU? Regular grade should have slightly more energy than mid-grade. Are you still running the same compression?

That would work perfectly so you don't have to hold on to the belt. I just put manual tension on it with my hand and did a recount of the teeth after putting the tensioner in.

No, it's not good for the engine in any way. It causes carbon deposits from the exhaust to build up inside your intake manifold. Not good. I was surprised to find out that VG motors actually work better without it plugged in. The only thing the EGR valve is good for is emissions control.