Filthy Luker

Depending on shape of current ones I'd replace the t-bar adjusting bolts and nuts. Will make life much easier to be cranking down on new threads. You didn't mention balljoints, in what shape are your current ones? If you have everything apart might as well do those. Also if yer gonna lift a WD21 start looking for a proper steering system.

Meh. You know by the time it reaches production it will be toned down significantly and the platform will be shared with the Quest.

I relplaced the rubber window trim on the doors. You know the ones at the base of the side windows that always rust and bulge up? Yeah! that was pricey from the dealer. But it was a pet peeve of mine so I sucked it up and paid for new pieces.

Won't the NISMO bar be stiffer and limit yer off road performance? Also you linked us to a Steering Stabiliser and not Sway Bar.

I use WhiteOut. Mark it on the teeth and belt. Absolutely fool-(luker)-proof, it's also easy to transfer the marks to a new belt.

Found few pics...

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6957 There is a STICKIED THREAD on the subject in the 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders forum.

Just noticed that it's $2300 not $3200. Still same applies though maybe just a little more ghetto fab though.

If ya have a $3200 to blow on something like this. Given your situation (4th truck etc) I'd grab about the nicest Samurai possible for $1000 then spend the rest getting 33"s to fit properly with gears, dual t-cases and winch. Then have some fun on trails.

Just get a locker or better yet weld her up and be done with it. To actually pay for LSD is a waste of money. Nice to have stock but that's about it. Also the carriers and gears won't be compatibile with the Mazda stuff.

How badly is it molested? My friend did rocker damage in his truck last year and he went to a metal shop where he had them cut and bend (to a similar profile) a piece of diamond plate. He then made sure that the actual rocker won't rust by painting it, he painted the diamond plate black, and attached it using sheetmetal screws and black automotive goop to the actual rocker. The end result was very very nice. I am thinking of doing something similar to my quarterpanels (because they're quite dented).

4.625 iirc

LFMAO..... never heard that one before...

Yes.... that's actually the best idea... think 1985 or earlier 4-Runner sly

Bad idea.. how on earth are you gonna say by LOOKING at them if they're good or bad? We're talking TINY amounts of stretch on the bolts here...It says in the manual to get new ones, then do so. Better yet, get a set of ARP fasteners. I think those you can reuse even. Do it once, do it right.

Uhmmmm.. no Slick, that's the Panhard rod. Damn you edited before I answered... LFMAO! The anti-sway bar (or sway bar as some call it) is a completely different part. sssh

Set the gap to factory spec.

I'd go with a Jeep if ya wanna wheel.... or Hummer H3.

Stay away from the EPi9.0 from Superwinch unless you plan on running synthetic line. Stock steel line length is 125' and i've seen two cracked off solenoid boxes (including mine) when the line spools up too much on one side. The EPi9.0s are fantastic powerful and durable winches, I've done some incredible 200+ feet repeaded pulls, but they have that one flaw with the long steel rope, even when you try to baby the line it's a pain as some pulls you just have to do off to one side and can't back up to realign. If you plan on moving your winch front to back, etc.. you may want to get that synth line anyways as it cuts the weight of the winch by a very large margin. With the steel line and the cradle it weighs about 140 lbs, which is a cumbersome load to be booting around with at night on slick rocks.

25mm offset on Legos. Nismo are 40mm from what I remember.

I am quite certain that there are many cars that are heavier than 4000lbs... Audi A6s for example... But to really make you wonder, the car on this picture is heavier than a 4x4 WD21 Pathfinder. Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Spyder PS.. My friend has one so I got to drive it with the top down and everything... BADASS!

I know somebody like that. He whent wheeling like that once. Blew apart his entire front end and since sold the truck after he got pulled over by cops and told to go to a safety inspection.

Spark plugs maybe? Check your air filter and MAF to see how dirty they are, make sure your MAF is grounded properly (i think it's the middle of the three wires), vacuum hoses, etc...

On a stock truck? You'd have to have a happy date with a sawzall for that to work. We're talking hacking into the firewall here excitement.

Good silicone like goop would be perfect, I think they itAutomotive Goop or something like that. Just smear it all over and then hold up something against the trim so it dries out for good 24 hours.