Filthy Luker

I got a full replacement exhaust system for my truck (cat back) for $150 last year. I believe my mechanic ordered it from them. Just to give you an example how cheap they are, I just got 4 tie-rods and 4 ball joints (upper/lowers) for $230+tax from them 'bout two weeks ago. -bounce- That's was something like $25 per tie-rod and $35 per ball joint. That place is insane and they had everything in stock. Just CALL them next time you need any parts. sly

Sorry I didn't see your thread earlier. Next time call National Exhaust (in Brampton)...

That's because nobody in their right mind would want a newer than that Pathfinder... JUST KIDDING EVERYONE!

I'd love to get a Brat one day. But instead of lifting it, I'd drop in an STi drivetrain.

I got that piece from the Nissan Dealer... Wasn't expensive at all.

It looks really really good, I like it as I am not a chrome person... I am not a fan of the taillight guards though. One more thing... OMG WHITE WALL TIRES BOYAAA!!!! Link to ENORMOUS IMAGE because Luker is a smartass

here's a link to how i did mine: http://nissan4wheelers.com/groupee/forums/...3/m/19310847811

I hate cardomain with a passion but I registered just so I can post a comment. sly

a lot of the n4w crew have them installed.

yea... we'd be spared from ONE CRAPPY MOVIE.

I see what you're saying.. but we are talking about CO2 and not oxygen... $125 shipped after taxes for a regulator ain't bad here. CO2 pressure regulators have to deal with a lot more than air regulators. There is a tremendous temperature change when you decompress this gas, regulators must be able to work in those conditions. You walk into any ghetto farm supply store here and they want at last $85 for a crappy CO2 regulator with wrong fittings and wrong pressure range. As for scuba tanks from everywhere I read, they are built differently, have different fittings and shouldn't be used for CO2 at all. Adaptor or two to make it ghetto fit.... No thanks. I'd rather be certain that everything I got is designed to work together safely for the right gas and right pressure range. Also I purchased it straight from the manufacturer: http://www.cramerdecker.com not from some off road shop. sly And I don't want to just fill tires... I want to drive airtools with it. -bounce-

Meh I wouldn't bother. It's easier to stall with a lighter flywheel which would be a pain wheeling. You want all the engine momentum you can get.

Is this related to me sending you guys those links on ECU remapping projects a while back?

Junkyard, dealer or an industrial fastener place like Brafasco.

Including shipping and duties in it was approximately $125 Canadian. By far the most expensive component of the system, but considering what it has to do, I figured it was worth spending few extra dollars and getting a proper non-freezing one with proper fittings and all. This is the one I got:

It feels great to wheel doesn't it!? F'ken aye mister! -bounce-

I myself love the scraping sounds... it's the loud pops and bangs followed by dead silence I hate. Fantastic mod... BTW! :cool2:

I had the same issue. I found that if you remove the fluid pickup/filter assembly (it may be a tight squeeze to get yer hands in there) you can take the pan off much easier. Or you can drop the exhaust, but that may be a one way trip.

I think the JWT race or street cams are on the list of upgrades for this year. I have not decided which one yet...

It's good to know you can service that. My spare tire carrier needs a bit of maintenance so I think I'll do it at the same time. Thanks for the link!

You can use zipties or go to any automotive parts store like NAPA and get them there, they're pretty inexpensive.

Here's the best part then... extra 1L of oil is not expensive at al, few bucks maybe, and the filter due to the fact that it's WORLDS MOST POPULAR filter size is $4 instead of the $6-7 for the Nissan sized one (at least here in Canada) We're talking a few extra bucks for the oil change. Basically you look for the filter that EVERY FORD TRUCK uses since like the birth of Black Jesus, and that's the part number. You can be in the most hick auto shop or gas station on the planet and they'll have an oil filter for you. :bow:

It's the Trans-Dapt kit, PN#1213... same exact thing that AC sells. From what I was told everyone rebrands the same kit and slaps their name on it. You can get it from SummitRacing for $53

Maybe it's the swaybar bushings (if you still have a swaybar)... If your BJs were gone you'd hear constant knocking over things like curbs and speedbumps. You'd also really feel it through the steering wheel.

Trying to join the Civic Nation?