Filthy Luker

I see you obviously checked the pricing for the TWO steering system upgrades I listed. -thnkboutit-

You will need a steering system upgrade as soon as you lift up the front end.

You can install air suspension kit. It's not too expensive and it really helps with heavy loads or towing. http://www.airliftcompany.com/new-index/Frameset.htm

Make sure you get a proper steering system, either L&P Performance or Calmini.

That's the issue. We have no traction at all where I run trails. We go in and dig for next three days. damn... Chu gotta make it up some time, I think you'll be in for a treat.

Cause even with 35"s a well built 44 won't break a sweat on the front end? Why sacrifice the weight and clearance with a 60? So the question stands... it's gonna run me at the most additional $80 or so in materials and pig to run HP, is there anything that would stop me in my tracks from doing so? BTW, I hope you're not taking it in any way personal, the way I look at it, is I am gonna do it once. Period. And I am gonna do it right. And at the same time I am one cheap bastard.

That's because most people who do their own custom work wheel their trucks and like to smash into things on trails. sly I have a class III hitch under my stock front bumper that's currently molded to the shape of the said hitch. Why do you think that is?

Here's the question that my friend (let's call him Raff cause that's his real name) has asked me when I showed him the pics of your build... I will repeat it for argument's sake. I currently have a FSJ axle ready for processing (from a working truck, brakes+ ecerything included), and I just got a call that I can have a HP Ford D44 housing for $50. Raff just retubbed his HP D44 (flipped the pig over) in three hours using 3" DOM (.5" wall thickness). How come nobody is doing it in Nissan world? Is there something with the carrier and spline count that won't make it work with the FSJ or EB halfshafts?

Then look like 33"s to me.

Anyway from what I remember there should be a sticker in your glove box with a code for the lock core. Give it to them and they'll work their magic.

I think it was something like $60 last time I checked...

Yea... dealer. Seriously it's not expensive and they'll core it to your current key.

Ughh... it's a moot point, but if you have a 4.3 it would cost you quite a bit to regear to 4.6 (that's the better one). It's not just the rear, you have to do the front as well.

Are the diffs just out in the open? Want to know the ratios and/or if they have LSD? Just go to the junkyard with a crowbar and spin the pinion to see how many times the hubs turn, and see if they spin in the same or opposite directions.

I got me two Quest 110 AMP ones from North Queen Auto for $100 cash.

Yea that explains it. He runs leafs. Thanks for the info.

Interesting... My buddy had some issues at full drop, he was just gonna double up the t-case with a D300 to lengthen the front driveshaft.

Oh c'mon dude... Think! If you're stuck, just engage the impulse drive and fly away to safety, if somebody else's stuck use your tractor beam. Anything else needed, just use replicators to make stuff right on the spot. Why do you think there are so many buttons and such.... :bow:

You have no issues with binding on the front driveshaft?

Crap I didn't notice it posted... sorry for the repeat.

WHISKEY TANGO FOXTROT ?!?!?!?!?!?

I am happy to hear that but couldn't you have just added that to your old thread? :confused:

more info here: http://www.autoblog.com/2006/02/15/pics-of...r-picard-and-h/

That makes sense then... I'll have to get in touch with him on some issues.