Jump to content

UPDATE - Unfortunately, the data that was lost is unrecoverable by the host.  If you joined between May 26th and Jan 13th please feel free to sign up again.  In addition, all posts and messages during that time have also been lost.  At this point there is nothing that can be done, other than to move forward from here.


Thank you for your patience and understanding.

-NPORA Mod Team

*Updated: 02/06/2022 5:26PM PST


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    97 XE: Old Man Emu suspension, a few other mods www.purplelizard.com
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Year

Recent Profile Visitors

3,500 profile views

herm's Achievements

NPORA Veteran

NPORA Veteran (3/5)



  1. I've seen sellers call them rare, but that isn't really true, in the way motorheads use the term. I'm certain Nissan sold more autos than manuals, but I see plenty of 5-speed XE and SEs. I'd consider an LE 5-speed to be rare. My 97 XE is a 5-speed. m.
  2. I had an 18 section of my drivers side rocker replaced when i crushed it in 2001. Last season ('06) it has started to bubble with some rust. I had a local bodyshop do it, paid cash - didn't want to put it on my insurance record - and they knew I prefered utility to cosmetics. So they cut out the crushed section and fabbed a piece of heavier (18g I think) steel as a patch of sorts. They feathered out the welds but it was a visible patch, since it sat on top of the original rocker. The paint match was perfect. This season I'll sand it down and put some kind of rust sealant on it, I believe all I'm seeing is surface rust, and then use hurculiner or some such goop. It's not too visible now that I have sliders. m.
  3. the rust you see on nuts and bolts, and undercarriage parts, isn't an issue. Yes, there may be a few bolts that take some effort to break loose, but as far as rust that becomes a structural issue, that doesn't happen until you have decades of decay. the surface rust on drivetrain parts is just that, light surface rust, and will not effect performance. To stop it, spray it down with WD40 and wipe it clean, or if the cosmetics bother you, use a scotchbrite pad to clean it up and hit it with black spray paint. Keep an eye out for rust around the rear hatch hinges, door hinges, rockers and fender flares (if you have them). Look at the little triangle of steel behind the front wheel mud flaps, in front of the door pillar. That area holds a lot of crap - take a screwdriver and drop the plastic "drain" shield thing, which is usually clogged anyway, and you'll find a handful of dirt. The design is intended to flush itself out from runoff on the windshield, and if you put a hose on the lower corner of the windsield you can see it drain out, but it may still be filled with crud. Out west, that dirt is just dirt, but anywhere they salt the roads that is a corrosion pocket. My R50 has no significant rust anywhere, after 10 years in Maine. m.
  4. How much does rooftop placement affect range? Due to the occasional parking garage, and swapping roofrack cargo options, I'm leaning towards a permanent mounting in the front bumper, probably a 4 ft Firestick. Currently I use a magentic rooftop mount (cheapy) and cig lighter MidLand portable, which is OK for talking to other trucks when wheeling, and OK for weatherband. But I'd rather upgrade to a Cobra handheld, and hardwire it to the Firestick off the front bumper, assuming I'll see an increased range. Does that make sense? m.
  5. Remember certain bumpers only accept certain winches... not sure what you have in mind, but the mounting options will narrow your winch options.
  6. Thule and yakima stuff are all over ebay and craigslist. The bars are universal, any width will work, you can always cut down the longer ones. The feet are vehicle-specific, but the R50 uses a system that is similar to others. I bought a used set of crossbars/mounts from a Ford Explorer and they fit fine. You can look at the refrence catalogs at a retailer (bike/ski shop, REI) or use the web. The weight limit you're reading is in reference to the flexy Nissan crossbars, although all companies will have a disclaimer around the same weight. You rarely need a deep roofrack basket. A lip of a couple inches will keep most items inboard, anything deeper just makes it harder to lift stuff out. Your lashing technique will make a bigger difference as far as keeping stuff up there.
  7. Exactly - Yakima and Thule offer sweet systems that are fully adjustable within the factory track system. No limit to how many bars you can add - so if you need more strength, add more bars. But two bars will hold a lot of weight, the way the footers are held in the tracks there is nowhere for them to go - I'm not sure how they would fail.
  8. Mad max on crack sums it up. I think it looks great. You need a massive D-ring recovery point welded front and center, remove the factory hooks so you won't hang up. Add some spikes on the sides to terrify the public even more. I think you will have 'Me First" rights at every intersection with that puppy up front.
  9. Some people prefer Sceptor (plastic) to Blitz (steel). Some complain the red paint flakes off when fuel spills on it. You can't crush the plastic ones, but how that is really relevant in the real world is debatable. They are lighter, but again, who's counting - filled with fuel, it's a heavy object. I can't really say which is better for fuel. I prefer plastic to steel for drinking water, but not so sure it matters much for gasoline. Review: http://www.expeditionportal.com/equipment/...scepter_can.php sales: http://offroadrecovery.zoovy.com/category/...jerrycansandacc
  10. I sure wish Nissan had made it a universal fit so we could add that swing away to any R50... Max - just how many pathfinders do you have anyway? m.
  11. <<dealer insists that I wait until March>> what exactly are you trying to find?
  12. Roof is easiest. Get a cheap old-school yakima or thule basketcase off ebay, and get a couple 2.5 gallon plastic cans designed to sit upright, and lash them down really well using NRS straps (not bungy cords). Using smaller cans is easier to lift, and minimizes loss if something goes wrong and you puncture or otherwise lose fuel. Another option is one of those rear shelf things that come off a 2 inch reciever hitch, but you lose all departure angle and hence limit any trail rides. Don't ever carry fuel inside the vehicle. But the big question is - why do you need it? You have a 230+ mile range in a Pathfinder. In most of the US, if you top off at the 'last gas' station and head for the trails you will be fine. It takes a multiday remote run to demand trail refueling, or trips into Mexico or Canada where you will have distances greater then 230 miles between villages. m.
  13. http://www.raingler.com/shop/products.asp?catID=12 Anyone tried one of these? The rear cargo barrier for R50s is the item in question. I know the floor mounts would be secure, but those J-hooks at the roof are weak... I have improvised a similar setup for the floor, using a series of NRS straps which form a square, with an X in the middle, around the four beefy J Hooks on the floor of the cargo area. This gives me a webbing structure to lash to. I keep a Hi-Lift, shovel, and spare 31 x 10.5 inside when possible, especially in winter. All my other recovery gear and tools go in plastic cases and are packed in heavy duty gear bags, which can be stuffed around the tire, and all lashed to the J-hooks. From my river running days, the rule is 'Rig to Flip'. The cargo net would allow me to pack soft gear, sleeping bags, luggage, etc, to the roof without it shifting forward. m.
  14. Out of curiousity, if you don't mind, what is the trade-in value? m.

Welcome to NPORA Forums


Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.



  • Create New...