unccpathfinder

harbor freight sells a decent vice grip attach dial indicator for checking backlash... yes clamping on mating surfaces is bad but it was the only one i could get to work and i knew the RTV would fill any scratches but don't recommend it

looks good...like nunya i'm not a huge fan of the shaved lights but hey to each their own...the fab work is awesome...the only other question i have is do you have provided a way to use a hitch in the front receiver...keep up the good work

hopefully soon...so far I can't see where it's too heavy...or at least the power to weight ratio seems to be pretty damn good...I've only used one onsite...i want to take one to Gulches or URE for a weekend after I get the pathy back to roadworthy status and we will go out in both to see which one breaks first...my vote is the pathy BTW to not complete thread jack...nice work on the idler arm brace

"Death wobble" won't happen on an ifs vehicle...its a phenomenon on solid axle vehicles...check for mud caked in wheels or lost wheel weights...do the inspection as stated above and you should be able to find something

Hopefully ill be sas'd soon and onto testing bigger and better things but for now band aids and ace bandages is my queue...but this is my day to day now...they haven't let me beat on one the way i want yet...but very soon but so far its taken my abuse

Build 2...send me one of those and ill let you know how bulletproof it is...1 weekend I guarantee ill break something be it a spindle, a-arm, steering box or steering component...whatever the next weakest link is

its not in my truck nor an option for me here in the states...and it still could be a light that's not used in the IP anyways hopefully you got it figured out

I would guess something to do.with temp...is it a diesel and that's the wait to start? A pm c would be more helpful...if u turn the flash on u can probably get a good view of it

Personally only seen a few actual welds break...its usually the material next to the weld that fails BC you have put too much heat into it and have made it brittle but I'd guess the steel that the Pittman and idler arm are either cast or foout of is at least 30 if not greater than 50 ksi steel...so if you degrade it by 50% u r looking at 15-25 ksi properties....well then lets look at the loads and cross sectional areas...yep not seeing anything too alarming here ESP since I'm looking at yield and ultimate strengths BC that's what i care about in this application not tensile strength...

Skinny pedal breaks lots of stuff no matter how built it is...I was accused of skinny pedal in moab but the issue was cracked headers (Eisenhower pass on the way to moab) so no torque...and busted Lca bushings allowing the suspension to do stupid things like when the front tires had power they towed in bad with traction on the slick rock it allowed them to not slip grab and tow in even more...causing bends and breaks...I proved my theory here in the south east but wasn't near as severe since most terrain around here allows for slip on the ground not bending parts If its a repeated bend in a short time span start looking for other causes...a tale tale of worn cls is scars on the frame from the TRE studs rubbing the frame...with a new Cl I didn't have clash but were still very close...upon further inspection I found the idler arm bent...replaced it and the passenger side was better but the drivers was still hitting at times...yep bent Pittman...which is the band aid I posted above but that won't fix it till I fix the lca bushings but it will get wheeled hard between now and then BC gulches is between me and my truck...ill just have spares and limit my abuse...after the first break... How many folks broke at KOH this weekend? And its desigrnd for abuse... And leave it with this: input offroading or driving in place of rock crawling "

IMO the Moog brace is better than mine BC of the weldment bathtub fitting...your not going to bend the bolt or the shaft under normal driving conditions and medium/hard Wheeling...I wheel hard but not hardcore BC I know the limits of my truck and still manage to break it

Bottom line is the IFS (inferior front suspension) in these trucks isn't meant to be run at the angles resulting from t bar cranks or anything like that...I was told as a kid 16 (now 28) that lifting IFS was going to wear the front end out...well it too me 11 years to wheel it hard enough to destroy the front end...I now know what i do to break stuff and adapt to not break as much stuff but its inadvertently going to happen on the trail...on highway use things will wear prematurely but not as fast as wheeling it... That being said IABs, beefier Tree's, idler arms, Pittman arms, CLs,Bjs etc are all band aides....if u want to keep IFS I think a coil over system is far superior but I don't know of one that's currently available for the Wd21s ...that being said band aide up...carry tools and trail spares...if u don't believe me check my nickname on ronnin and anyone that was at goneX will tell u what I broke the most... only did 2 out of 5 trails...went thru 5 or 6 TREs, 4 Bjs, 2 Cls, 2 idler arms and couldn't replace my Pittman arm BC no spares were available...I also thrashed my LCA bushings but managed to keep my rewelded connecting rod bushings alive...I should have done all trails looked in 2wd and I woulda been fine...anywhere... ? Enough bitching and moaning...if its that big of deal and you hate everything out there model them all...run fea's and see which one is really best...

I have an IAB similar to the calmini one but I still bent my idler arm in moab...I have welded a new plate in to held resolve this till my SAS

This is from about 30 mins in moab on metal masher on stock ifs and snapped one in half: I'm going with these that I've made and changing the taper to Chevy 1tons haven't figured out which ones for sure...also will make a custom CL until I can SAS...i also have an IAB This with some new LCA bushings should allow me to beat on her hard enough till I get the SAS...

Skipped most of.the posts but looks like a common problem with sleeved bushings that the steel sleeve basically rusts/welds itself to.the bolt causing issues getting.it out...I've seen people cut the bolt on either side with a dremle and.then ez out the rest of.the Bolton drill it till it spins out since the threads r already broken loose

http://s72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/kennylauter909/moon%20buggy/

Holy dead thread resurrection Batman

Check the gear ratios first...

I just removed the front clamp and then dropped the rear tailing arms to get the but plate off after removing the rear bolt...

If one is loose...chances are the others will loosen with time or fail...the bolt circle becomes less effective when uneven torques or missing nuts are present

Wd21 shoulda been vg30....kingman cleared it up...I was drunk and tired but 95% of my posts r in that mindset so i reckon its not an excuse

Water pump means timing belt as well...unless u r doing a VG in a 4x4 hard body or 2wd car with the wd21 but at that tone u may as well do the belt as well

Ive heard of folks getting appraisals prior to wrecked or stolen so the insurance company has a set worth of the vehicle...my pathy is liability only so they know nothing

I think you need more details than that... 1. Can you tell whether the grinding is under the hood or in the cab if its in the cab it may be something to do with the ring for the horn/cruise or the clamshell (steering column cover)or turn signal cancel if its under the hood did you check the U joints for debris/wear 2. which wheel...steering wheel...or actual wheels 3. more details on the sound and when it happens...