clkindred

Colorado Springs here, tag for wheeling trip!

Thanks everyone! Hopefully MOOG keeps making them like they do, I heard of some other items they outsourced to the cheapest bidder :-(

Hello! 1: Not sure because I don't run spacers, but those spacers give EXACTLY the amount of lift as they are tall. So choose based on how much higher you want to go. If you want the rear to go up 3 inches, then get the 3 inch. It would make the vehicle point downwards I think because 2.5 in front and 3 in rear. People who run stiffer coils like myself (no spacers) run into the uneven lift front to back, the rear gets lifted more than the front. So later some choose to add spacers to the front only to even it out. But as far as I know, there is no need to order different height spacers to get a level lift, unless the different height is what you want. 2: Sorry no experience with those either. 3: If you run spacers, like the ones you say you are getting, they mount on top of the strut and move the whole coilover setup down by the length of the spacer, this puts the control arms and CV axles at a more extreme angle, adding aftermarket coils might add to this extreme angle and it might be too much. We have a range of angle to play with, you can add to the angle with stiffer coils, or spacers, but usually not both. 4: KYB is the preferred brand in the US at least, the international market lists some more brands that are not used here, the struts I just put on mine are KYB Excel-G. They are the same strut as the now phased out GR-2 (according to KYB) 5: Our vehicles use LUG centric wheels, although the part you linked appears to be LUG centric, not HUB centric. Anyways, I got aftermarket wheels with the backspacing I needed, if I remember right the stock wheel BS (back spacing) is 4.75" and the BS we want so bigger tires don't rub on the spring perch is 3.75" So your 1.5" is more that enough for that. 6: Manual hubs are good to go, no complaints from me. The rest of the stuff you mentioned, bushings do not take center stage when doing a lift, they are probably fine. I just did my control arm bushings and steering rack bushings, but they did not need to be replaced. (found that out only after removing the control arm, but at that point there was no going back!) We don't have torsion bars, so there is one heavy bulky thing you won't have to import! As well as sway bars, most members don't change anything with them. Brake lines are optional as long as the lift is no more than 3" The only thing I can think of that you might need to add that you did not list was strut mounts and bearings. It is typical for those to be replaced along with the strut when doing the lift, if you don't and the old ones go bad, you will have to take apart the struts again to replace them. Taking the struts apart is a pain in the neck, and kind of dangerous if you do it yourself.

The NISSAN parts diagram shows the clutch as a different part number as the compressor, so it should come off. As for a reliable and affordable replacement, not sure, as the NISSAN part is kinda spendy.

I had an issue with the clamps that Rockford sent with my boots as well. All the small ones and the big outboard clamps were fine, but the big inboard clamps were a hair too large. With the clamp set into the smallest notch, I crushed the bump completely with pliers designed for these clamps, but no dice, not quite tight enough. It will look tight enough, but it oozed grease and made a huge mess. I replaced them with the "smooth band" hose clamps, mostly because they were the correct width to fit in the clamp channel.

Performance? Hard to say, it did not hurt though. It SOUNDS like it helped performance just because the extra noise that can make it out of the intake. I do like the way it sounded after doing it.

I just went and looked at mine, there is a grease nipple to the rear of that rubber boot on the shaft, about halfway between the rubber boot and the u-joint leading to the transfer case. You may need to rotate the shaft to access it.

All the hoses (the big ones are PCV and idle air control valve I think) and the smaller one (not sure what that one is) I just routed into the pipe, seems to work fine.

Put this in to bring the engine back from the dead. And these to tighten up the front end.

...and roughly 30,000 miles with the AC lift and they are still going strong. If KYB's are still not recommended these seem to be a good alternative to OEM Nissan. Here is a pic of one as it came out of the strut mount. Here is a pic of it cleaned up a little.

Welcome! First post with pics? GOOD pics? Yep this place is gonna like you!

Welcome, I thought you were from space

I don't know about the Denver area, down the interstate from ya the trails get pretty deep with snow in the shady spots. One time I made it to the point where a single set of tire tracks just ended when the snow got about 4 feet deep, no one had made it farther than that as long as the snow had been there. I then had to drive on snowy trail in reverse for about 150 yards because there was no place to turn around, not fun.

Dang, I don't get on here as often as I used to, I'm in the springs as well. I got mondays and tuesdays off. Where do you like to wheel?

IF you pathy is 2wd like you say, you should'nt have CV's. IF you do have CV's, as long as the joint it still good, you can re-boot them. There is a type recomended here but I can't recall the details. Search the forum for "thermoplastic boots" 1: Struts. (KYB seems to be the favorite brand here, other members have also used monroe) 2: Strut mounts. (KYB NOT the favorite mfgr. last time I checked. OEM Nissan or I have had good luck out of my Moog strut mounts.) 3: Ball joints??? sorry not a lot of first hand knowledge from me about those, there are only lower ball joints, the strut is the "upper ball jount" sort of. (Moog is probably the mfgr. I will go with when I do mine down the road. 4: Wheel bearings re-greased and adjusted, Too much slop and they won't be able to align the front end, also it's bad... 5: Take a look at your controll arm bushings if you feel the front end is really worn. Again not something I have done myself. 6: Tie rod ends, more steering than suspension but they might need looked at. That's all I can think of right now, it's late lol! :sleep:

Not that I know of. Did a quick search and it looks to me like they say 03 is good to go. http://www.huskyliners.com/product-detail/?category=4

Wow at first I thought to myself "that looks a lot like mine" then a closer look reveals it's EXACTLY like mine, or atleast the way mine used to be haha.

Hello and welcome! That's a nice looking pathy you got there!

You should still have a factory alarm though, along with the fob to remotely lock and unlock your doors. The security light should mean all doors are closed and locked and the alarm is active.

Humm, no replys yet... I was wating for someone who knows more about this to chime in. By transponder key you mean the kind with the chip in it, required to start the engine? My 98 has no such device, I can start and drive with the plain spare key if I need, in fact I like to do that when off roading so I don't have to listen to all my keys floping around.

Here's a couple.

Welcome to NPORA! There was a post somewhere here where R-50's were being used in some type of rally racing. Let me see if I can find it...

Give this a skim, everything we know about R50 and QX4 lifts is in here. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/4990-so-you-want-to-lift-your-96-up-pathy/

Welcome! Everything you have planned looks good to go, rear drums though? My drums are from 98 but they still look new as far as the wear surface goes. Unless you do/did a lot of towing I would not expect they would need replaced. Oil filter relocation has a nice perk in that you can avoid spilling oil all over your steering rack bushing, which can cause the rubber bushing to rot out. Custom bumpers! You will make a lot of friends around here!