clkindred

I did tires and wheels first.

They will probably rub the plastic in the wheel well a little. My 31x10.50x15's did.

Welcome!

Welcome to NPORA!

Hey welcome to NPORA! From my search is seems there was some talk along those lines a while back but sadly no finished project that I saw. There was an agreement that the 3.5 is already about as powerfull as it can be, and that pushing much more was risky.

Yep, and if you did top it off with thin pads, when you go to put in new ones you will have to suck it all out or it will overflow when you push the pistons back in.

Welcome! That's a nice looking Pathfinder!

Well, you say it won't idle and acts weird, can you elaborate? Dose it idle fast? Slow? Dose it stumble and miss? For troubleshooting vacuum leaks you can take a can of starting fluid or brake cleaner and spray short spirts on vacuum lines, intake gasket area and such and if there is a leak the engine will rev up for a second or two when you hit the culprit.

Is it me, or dose it look like someone just got done taking a shower inside that jeep?

Hey a two door! Welcome to NPORA! I'm sure the two door crowd will chime in and give a proper welcome.

Welcome! Head on over to http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/forum/67-r50-faqs-pinned-topics/ for a wealth of info, should be everything you need to know. The R50 IS a capable wheeler sock, I recomend plenty of hunting/fishing and bush camping trips while it its stock so you know where to go with your mods. The first time I took my pathy "wheeling" was with a buddy in the snowy winter mountains, I was astonished what I could get through in my stock pathy and it was probably the most fun I have had in it.

Welcome to NPORA! I'm sure we would all like to see pictures of your pathy!

No takers yet? Well I did some googlin' and found http://store.snakeracing.com.au/~snakerac/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=R50+coil+strut+spacer are these that you are talking about? They look like a simple strut spacer along the lines of these http://www.nx4industries.com/ which have done well from what I have heard. Although they are not usually a standalone lift, but a way to enhance a spring lift, though if the spacer alone gives enough lift for you than go for em' I would think the spacers installed in the way that snake racing product describes "on top" than ride would not be changed from stock. I believe the NX4's can be ordered in an other configuration aswell as "on top" that would add preload to the spring making it ride stiffer. Either way you have to ship them from outside the US, so either Australia or Canada.

Never heard of them, got a link?

Welcome!

Aint that the truth, when this is done you will be able to change a valve cover gaskit on your lunch break.

As for taking the finnish off the wheels for painting, it's not gonna be easy and I'm not sure if there is a way to totaly "strip" chrome off as you would any other finish. The mad scientist in me has me thinking perhaps an acid bath, or reverse engineering the chroming prosses to take it off. Giving it a good cleaning and then wire brushing or sanding/sand blasting to rough up the chrome so paint will grab is probably the best option. Coating the wheels in somthing called "plasti-dip" has some believers. Heck some people spray their whole car with it. Plasti-dip thread http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32634-looking-for-new-wheels-recommendations/

Well I will answer what I know. Many people have run 31's at stock height with various wheels and widths, including myself for a while. My stock 5 spoke alloys (although not chrome, more of a mate silver) were 5.75" backspace. The requirement for 3.75" backspace wheels according to AC is kinda not true, the lift will go on just fine with stock wheel backspace, it's the larger tires they assume you will be running that make that somewhat needed. If you can run your tire size without the AC lift, then you don't need different wheels. Camber bolts hehe, I bought 4 to replace all factory cabmer bolts on mine, after doing the lift I think I could have gotten away with 1 per side. They might not be needed, but trying to put your pathy together is a bad time to find out you do. As for the rest, I don't know.

LOL what? I always thought the shape of all R-50 floor mats were the same.

You installed the lift on the front only? On going over bumps this "nasty vibration" is it like a pop or bang? Any noise or vibration noticed when turning the steering wheel? What brand of replacement CV axle did you use? By "C clamps" do you mean the C-clip that retains the axle stub in the steering nuckle? If this clip were not in place properly it could do some very strange things I suppose. Pull the little cover off the hub and check to see if it is sitting down in it's groove. How's your wheel bearings holding up?

That's great news!

You will need to remove some of the wheel well plastic to gain entry into the fender. Then there is a little chrome "ring" at the base of the mast on the outside just on the fender's surface that partly attaches the entenna to the fender. Unscrew this part and remove it. Then on the inside of the fender, you will see just one or perhaps two bolts holding the servo motor/inner antenna assy. to the vehicle. Remove these aswell as the related wires and it will drop out of the fender. Hope this helps!

What part? Just the telescoping mast or the whole thing servo and all?

No problem!

Hehe I think it's for use when installing the mount in a post facelift R50. I had the same spacers and because the factory set up did not use any spacer, I just did not use them.