clkindred

What about the little air bleeder screw on the upper manifold? Might that be another way to purge these pesky bubbles out? I seem to remember after doing my timing belt, removing that screw and filling the cooling system with fresh coolant untill it started spitting out the bleed hole (which was strange because it sits higher than the radiator cap) Closed it up and have never had any troubles with air bubbles.

Haha that being said, the adaptor to wire in an aftermarket head unit needs to plug into the harness where the old head unit used to, and they state a range of like 95-05 Nissans so it seems the plugs are mostly the same.

I think it depends on what the newer one came out of (or was made to go in) If it's still from a pathy one might referance part numbers for the harness, if they are the same you should be good to go.

Sorry my friend but I don't know that off the top of my head, and even if I did I think there is a chance your A/C is different that US models. Any NPORA members out there able to shed some light on this?

+1 on spraying out the rad, also I gotta ask, you have good coolant levels? I only ask because my pathy pulled a fast one on me and had me fooled for bit, the resivour was lying to me.

Oh gee not many chiming in on this one. There is not a dedicated thread on lights that I know of, I have not yet mounted any off road lights on my pathy because I am not happy with my available mounting options. The curvy front bumper just dose not provide the clean install and look I want. On the roof rack would have them sticking out like a sore thumb and I don't like that either. I have always thought when I see pathys or the xterras with the "air dam" that it would be neat to cut holes in it and have the lights behind it.

Humm, as far as RELAYS go I have one that says "A/C" but I always assumed it was for the compressor, it's just a bundle of wires with a relay at the end of them, so it might give the apperance that half of the wiring is missing, no "to and from" type thing. If it is the fan that is not working I don't think that relay is the problem.

Welcome to the forums! Are you talking about under the hood? Lemme go look at my 98 real quick...

If you find a rattle in parts of the heat shield and don't want to remove it, or if you are like me an are too lazy to do so, you can put metal hose clamps around the problems areas and snug them down. I found that where the two halves of the shield bolt together breaks and then they rattle.

Good point.

Humm, you could also install an aftermarket tranny fluid cooler and just bypass the radiator, seems to be what a lot of members do anywas as an upgrade of sorts, might be cheaper if the radiator still holds water fine. You are not leaking coolant too are you?

Yea if the joint is still good I would try to hang on to it. I think/hope that noise you heard was un-related. As long as the joint has not been run dry without grease and there are no play in it I think it should be fine.

Well let me know if you find what you need at the JY, if not I'll dig out that air box and intake pipe for ya.

Humm I think I have that air box somewere but I don't live close to you.

4x4parts dot com lists their seats as fitting all Nissans, but they are kinda spendy.

Erm, not that I know of, I don't like the big gear ratio jump between 1st and 2nd but there aint much I can do about it. Bigger tires will gear the whole thing up but it dose not sound like that's what you want.

That's a good point.

Yea I would not worry too much about it because with the AC lift the truck is still raked like stock (pointing down at the front) so the headlights point down to the ground the same, just a couple inches higher. Now if you level the pathy like if you did the 1 inch strut spacers, you change the angle that the headlights point and might run into issues.

Yep take it all apart untill to have removed everything that needs to be replaced, then replace them. The CV boot will probably require that the controll arm be dropped, so while it is, you can get at your ball joint.

X2 Mine did the burning smell for a couple of weeks, then the alty just flat out died, a number of indicator lights came on and stayed on, I disconnected the battery while the engine was running and the engine died, so it was running on the battery and was not getting any from the alty.

Having installed my AC lift a few months ago, I can say bottoming out with the stiffer springs is highly unlikly unless you're jumping the truck. Topping out is just somthing that will happen when you hyper extend the front suspension, it is an annoyance that any lifted rig with independant front suspension will encounter to some degree or another. As for getting any lift from struts that are no longer than the factory ones, it comes down to how much of the suspension's travel is sag. What I mean is, let's say that the suspension has 8 inches of travel max, from the factory the vehicle rides in between this 8 inches at let's say 5 inches. So from the normal ride height you are afforded 5 inches of upward travel, and 3 inches of downward travel of the wheel. The stiffer springs brings the static ride height higher by two inches, so now you are at 7 inches up, and just 1 inch down. In other words, the factory suspension always had the ability to extend and let the vehicle ride higher, but the springs are soft and the truck's weight smooshes it down. Sorry for the long post, or if none of this made any sense, or if I am patronizing anyone.

If I were in my suspension again, I would do the hose thing, I thought about it when putting my lift on but I said F it. However it is a simple and cheap addition that might help prevent noise and to be honest, the less liklely chance I might want to tear into my struts because of some annoying creak or pop the better. If you can, do it. If you can't for some reason, don't sweat it.

There is a member here, "captandy" I think? who used rubber hose fed over the spring wire. If you want whatever function these things serve, then doing that would be way cheaper. As for myself, I am also running without those thingys.

That is more or less what goes on, but he dose not show removal or installation of the axle so there is more work to take into account. On our axles, the lower (outer) joint can stay on, the upper (inner) joint is the one that has to come off and it dose so in a different way. The inner joint has a flange for mounting to the differential output rather than the spline shaft shown in the vid. In the center of the flange is a large metal cover plate that has to first be removed, then removing a c-clip around the axle shaft will allow the bearing carriage thing to slide off. Some say a mallet is needed to free this part, but I just pulled with my hands and it slid off. Happy booting!

Hehe thanks, I have not posted new pictures yet of my pathy with the lift, the pic below is without. Re building CV's is really really messy, unless you have a parts washing tank. Other than that, the only thing that gave me trouble were the boot clamp strap things, they are hard to get on good and tight.