clkindred

Schedule 8? We talking PVC conduit now? JkJk I know what you meant.

Just to clear things up for me, the TX takes ATF right?

Looks good! Did you have them coated by professionals? It looks like it anyways. My 2" AC coils are yet to be installed, thinking about painting them. There will never be an easier time than now!

Oh wait, you said just an unknown smell, I thought burning smell.

My alternator made a burning smell a few months before it died, I could not find where the smell was coming from until I replaced the alternator and the smell went away.

Mounted my air compressor and hard wired it in. No more lifting the hood to air up, yay!

I thought about doing this also, but only to lessen the vibrations the clutch fan puts on the water pump. Perhaps the water pump will last longer.

They slide forward to pop out of the clips, at least the front ones do anyway. You still might break a few, the plastic is old and brittle and as always, it's designed around easy assembly at the factory, installed once and left alone forever.

Ah ok, you can't unlock the door with the switch inside, just the key or the handle. So, no power lock on that door. Actuator might be a better term for the device, but it sounds like it's not working. I think it's a tossup between wiring or the actuator being bad, could be either one and both are just as likely. As far as the dome light issue, just worry about the locking/unlocking problem for now. I think when you have that problem solved, the dome light will start behaving normal again. I have a sneaking suspicion that it's function is tied into the power lock actuators as well as the door closed/open switch. So it's not coming on when you unlock the car with the keyfob because the actuators are not working.

Dose the remote do anything at all? I mean, from what you are saying it sounds like the remote works, but not everything responds to it, but other things do. That's very strange. I would have said it might be the door lock solenoid, but if you can lock/unlock the door with the button inside then that's out. And the dome light raises further questions. Now that I think about it, my best guess would be the module that the keyfob talks to, or perhaps the connections from this equipment to the lock solenoids and dome light. I'm not quite sure how that's all laid out but it seems like your vehicle is not getting this "signal" to the devices which are fully functional.

Nice work! You don't have to illuminate your license plate?

I tried resealing my sensor with some sensor safe RTV a while back, waste of time, it dose not leak from around the threads, it leaks right through the unit and out the connector. Just replace the sensor on your next oil change. Replacing it is not so hard, just figuring out how you have to contort your body and arm to get leverage to get it out takes a few tries. On the subject of squeal, you can troubleshoot belts, pulleys, and devices like alternators, P/S pumps and AC comps by removing belts one by one, starting with the alternator belt, starting the engine and running it for a short time (it will run off the batt, and WITHOUT THE COOLANT PUMP TURNING) to see if the squeal is there or not. I had mine running with no belts at all, it turned out to be my water pump making the noise. With my engine off and no belt on the water pump/fan, I could spin the fan by hand, thus turning the WP and I could hear it squeak. So in my case, all my belts were fine.

Plus one internets you magnificent bastage.

As far as drive-ability sure, but I thought even when the AC is off, every so often the compressor kicks on for a moment or two to keep things lubricated and prevent the compressor from seizing up. Yet another thing I hope someone can confirm because I don't know this for sure, or if a few weeks is enough to matter if it's true. On the other hand, what about if the vehicle is left parked for a few weeks? That should not harm anything even though the AC is not kicking on. Perhaps pull the fuse for the AC (I think there is one involved with the AC control wiring) so it can't try to come on with nothing turning it. But again, there is a chance all this is just a lucid acid trip of mine.

Yea, the AC comp is the only thing that belt turns, so it is not necessary for the vehicle to drive. And yes, there is another belt in front of it that needs to come off in order to remove the AC belt.

Hold on, what engine do you have?

Holy freakin @#%$! Wish I knew how much that thing cost before I ripped mine off and tossed it in the garbage, not that I wanted it anyway.

If it breaks, I think you can just pull the AC belt off and run without it until you solve the problem. IIRC that belt dose not run anything else. Can anyone confirm? It's dark and I don't want to go outside and look right now.

My 3.3 don't have that either.

It's hard for me to see in the vid but it looks like you made a hole in the factory... eh, we'll call it the plastic accordion tube for the MAF. My personal concern would be air leaks, as well as the sensor not sitting in the engineered passage way anymore. What your MAF WAS mounted in was carefully engineered as far as shape and diameter in order to provide the correct velocity and turbulence, (or lack of) of the air flowing past the sensor, that's what I think anyway. Think of it like a venturi in a carburetor. Also how well is the MAF mounted to your setup? Could it come off while wheeling on a washboard forest service road?

So roughly 36 more miles per fill up. My tank takes 18 gal after light comes on. Fuel prices in my area put it at 5 maybe 6 bucks saved per fill, so... in about 36 fills the hubs have paid for themselves in fuel savings alone.

So was there more grease/oil in the drum?