clkindred

First off, welcome to NPORA! I thought the offset was just the same as backspace just measured from the other side? Therefore simply a consequence of the backspace you want for a given wheel width. If stock backspace is 4" then a BS of 5" would suck the wheel in towards the strut by 1" My 98 had 15" wheels and 4.75" BS stock, most members here with that configuration go for 3.75" BS to push the wheel out by 1" Rubbing the strut dose not become an issue until 33" tires IIRC, the main reason for pushing the wheel out is so that ~31" tires don't rub the subframe when turning sharply. Just did a quick search, it seems a 8" wide wheel gives a lot more options (and cheaper) than a 7" wide wheel.

Did you see this thread? Might also cause a noise when nosediving while hard breaking and compressing the front suspension. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40382-video-drive-shaft-knocking/

Nope, they are all (for this vehicle, all brands even oem) plastic thrust bushings basically. I think there is a teflon surface in there.

Huh, I just replaced my rack bushings with the urethane ones and don't like em, they are too slippery and let the rack slip back and forth a little. The passenger side one sits between two "locating" ribs in the steering rack, so it can't move a lot, therefor no scratches would not surprise me if it were moving. If the driver side bushing is gone, it could let the rack move, but not side to side, but rattling around in the clamp. It dose not take much of an impact of metal on metal parts to make a noticeable clunk, so it may just barely be moving at all. The rain part is a little confusing though, are you sure it's not your ABS firing?

http://www.rocky-road.com/nissan-pathfinder-lift-kit.html https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=503687&cc=1432945&jnid=463&jpid=3 https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=503425&cc=1432945&jnid=463&jpid=4 https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=418852&cc=1432945&jnid=464&jpid=7

Check the hose that goes from just below the radiator cap to the overflow tank. Make sure it is connected and free flowing. A while back I suddenly had a temperature spike while driving, noticed low coolant in the rad, but not in the res. Turned out that hose had gotten clogged and when the radiator cap let the pressure out, it blew the hose off the barb on the res. Then every time the engine would go through a drive cycle, it would just spit the coolant onto the road. then suck in air when cooling down. It was a sneaky leak because it would never leave a drop in the driveway, or parking lot, it would only leak while on the road.

Mechanicalbaron, first thing that comes to my mind is have the two halves of the sway bar end with the spline portion of a scrap torsion bar or axle shaft, so that the two spline parts sit next to each other. The two are joined together with the corresponding internal spline of the donor system, be it hub or whatever the torsion bar indexes into, the joining internal spline part can slide to one side separating the two. It would be exactly the type of force the spline was designed to experience, but probably less. It would be a lot of work, if the front sway bar dose not change offroad performance, then it would be one of those projects done just to see if it can be done, as a design challenge of sorts.

Well if you have the money, new tires are probably the best way to spend it on your vehicle.

You are making me regret throwing my rear swaybar in the scrap pile, but I have not noticed a problem with my stiff AC coils though. mechanicalbaron, the method you describe if I understand it correctly would put a twisting load on the disconnect right? I would think there would be a lot of mechanical advantage working to shear your pin. But I don't know how big of a sleeve you are considering, if big enough it could work.

Heh, join up to NPORA, post twice with little response form anyone about your problem, and then you end up solving it yourself. Thanks for the update though, when you say "new TDC" what is that in relation to? What I mean is, what other "system" that is separate from the engine needs to be lined up with TDC again? The reman engine should be ready to run right? Did you have to clock the distributor differently?

Meh, they are a little dry rotted but not bad enough to have me worried yet.

Gotcha, very similar to mine then, but I don't have skid plates perhaps that keeps me careful. Probably the best thing to bring wheeling with you is a wheeling buddy.

Not sure on the u-joints, or common parts breakages in general, how hard are you planning to push your pathfinder? I have heard of someone in here breaking a CV axle, but I think they were trying to pull another vehicle out of the mud in reverse, with a locked front diff, and a weird front wheel angle. If your pathy is stock, and you wheel within it's limits, I think it would take some real effort to break something. But a few things that come to mind to have with you anytime are: Spare radiator hoses, hose clamps and patch pipes to join a hose after cutting out the bad spot. A spare oil filter, these are not prone to damage, but if you need one, you can't fake it. Perhaps these are more like things listed in the lengthy "what do you always have with you" thread. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/12044-what-do-you-always-have-with-you/

If the joint is still good you can put new boots on and keep the stock axles. It seems the aftermarket replacement axles are kinda cheesy, but if it's just highway miles they are probably fine. I have driven on torn boots for months, twice, and still have the original axles with no problems.

This thread is reenforcing my decision to have gotten a NISSAN dissy when my camshaft angle sensor gave up the ghost.

Congratulations on your success! I also commend you for sticking with it until the end, sounded like a lot of headaches and a lot of people would have given up. (Please tell me the power valve screws were done during your rebuild)

I looked back through this thread and you mentioned a visible wheel wobble, it still wobbles? I don't want to patronize you, but have you checked the basics like wheel bearings, or perhaps you got a bent wheel. Can you swap wheels with one from the rear and see if it still wobbles?

Do you have another thread where you describe your shaking problem in more detail?

Thanks everyone! Hopefully MOOG keeps making them like they do, I heard of some other items they outsourced to the cheapest bidder :-(

Hello! 1: Not sure because I don't run spacers, but those spacers give EXACTLY the amount of lift as they are tall. So choose based on how much higher you want to go. If you want the rear to go up 3 inches, then get the 3 inch. It would make the vehicle point downwards I think because 2.5 in front and 3 in rear. People who run stiffer coils like myself (no spacers) run into the uneven lift front to back, the rear gets lifted more than the front. So later some choose to add spacers to the front only to even it out. But as far as I know, there is no need to order different height spacers to get a level lift, unless the different height is what you want. 2: Sorry no experience with those either. 3: If you run spacers, like the ones you say you are getting, they mount on top of the strut and move the whole coilover setup down by the length of the spacer, this puts the control arms and CV axles at a more extreme angle, adding aftermarket coils might add to this extreme angle and it might be too much. We have a range of angle to play with, you can add to the angle with stiffer coils, or spacers, but usually not both. 4: KYB is the preferred brand in the US at least, the international market lists some more brands that are not used here, the struts I just put on mine are KYB Excel-G. They are the same strut as the now phased out GR-2 (according to KYB) 5: Our vehicles use LUG centric wheels, although the part you linked appears to be LUG centric, not HUB centric. Anyways, I got aftermarket wheels with the backspacing I needed, if I remember right the stock wheel BS (back spacing) is 4.75" and the BS we want so bigger tires don't rub on the spring perch is 3.75" So your 1.5" is more that enough for that. 6: Manual hubs are good to go, no complaints from me. The rest of the stuff you mentioned, bushings do not take center stage when doing a lift, they are probably fine. I just did my control arm bushings and steering rack bushings, but they did not need to be replaced. (found that out only after removing the control arm, but at that point there was no going back!) We don't have torsion bars, so there is one heavy bulky thing you won't have to import! As well as sway bars, most members don't change anything with them. Brake lines are optional as long as the lift is no more than 3" The only thing I can think of that you might need to add that you did not list was strut mounts and bearings. It is typical for those to be replaced along with the strut when doing the lift, if you don't and the old ones go bad, you will have to take apart the struts again to replace them. Taking the struts apart is a pain in the neck, and kind of dangerous if you do it yourself.

The NISSAN parts diagram shows the clutch as a different part number as the compressor, so it should come off. As for a reliable and affordable replacement, not sure, as the NISSAN part is kinda spendy.

I had an issue with the clamps that Rockford sent with my boots as well. All the small ones and the big outboard clamps were fine, but the big inboard clamps were a hair too large. With the clamp set into the smallest notch, I crushed the bump completely with pliers designed for these clamps, but no dice, not quite tight enough. It will look tight enough, but it oozed grease and made a huge mess. I replaced them with the "smooth band" hose clamps, mostly because they were the correct width to fit in the clamp channel.

Performance? Hard to say, it did not hurt though. It SOUNDS like it helped performance just because the extra noise that can make it out of the intake. I do like the way it sounded after doing it.

I just went and looked at mine, there is a grease nipple to the rear of that rubber boot on the shaft, about halfway between the rubber boot and the u-joint leading to the transfer case. You may need to rotate the shaft to access it.

All the hoses (the big ones are PCV and idle air control valve I think) and the smaller one (not sure what that one is) I just routed into the pipe, seems to work fine.