clkindred

Ah, I just thought this was the reason for looking for replacement wheels, and affordable replacements. Nothing lasts forever

I have seen many alloy wheels corrode badly, most likely starts as damage to the clear coat, then the salt gets underneath it and the pitting begins. So if there were scratches close to the bead area from tire weights, mounting or curb rash there would be no stopping it. So before we can go deeper into your wheel needs, we need to know for sure what your stock BS is, and how much you would like to change it. If your stock BS is 4", then your wheel already sits 3/4" farther out from the strut than mine did stock.

See if Pro Comp has dealers in Canada, they seem to indicate that they do, they offer a good selection of wheels that are reasonably priced. http://www.procompusa.com/DealerLocator I'd look, but I can't narrow it down farther than Saskatchewan to find a location.

First off, welcome to NPORA! I thought the offset was just the same as backspace just measured from the other side? Therefore simply a consequence of the backspace you want for a given wheel width. If stock backspace is 4" then a BS of 5" would suck the wheel in towards the strut by 1" My 98 had 15" wheels and 4.75" BS stock, most members here with that configuration go for 3.75" BS to push the wheel out by 1" Rubbing the strut dose not become an issue until 33" tires IIRC, the main reason for pushing the wheel out is so that ~31" tires don't rub the subframe when turning sharply. Just did a quick search, it seems a 8" wide wheel gives a lot more options (and cheaper) than a 7" wide wheel.

Did you see this thread? Might also cause a noise when nosediving while hard breaking and compressing the front suspension. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40382-video-drive-shaft-knocking/

Nope, they are all (for this vehicle, all brands even oem) plastic thrust bushings basically. I think there is a teflon surface in there.

Huh, I just replaced my rack bushings with the urethane ones and don't like em, they are too slippery and let the rack slip back and forth a little. The passenger side one sits between two "locating" ribs in the steering rack, so it can't move a lot, therefor no scratches would not surprise me if it were moving. If the driver side bushing is gone, it could let the rack move, but not side to side, but rattling around in the clamp. It dose not take much of an impact of metal on metal parts to make a noticeable clunk, so it may just barely be moving at all. The rain part is a little confusing though, are you sure it's not your ABS firing?

http://www.rocky-road.com/nissan-pathfinder-lift-kit.html https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=503687&cc=1432945&jnid=463&jpid=3 https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=503425&cc=1432945&jnid=463&jpid=4 https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=418852&cc=1432945&jnid=464&jpid=7

Check the hose that goes from just below the radiator cap to the overflow tank. Make sure it is connected and free flowing. A while back I suddenly had a temperature spike while driving, noticed low coolant in the rad, but not in the res. Turned out that hose had gotten clogged and when the radiator cap let the pressure out, it blew the hose off the barb on the res. Then every time the engine would go through a drive cycle, it would just spit the coolant onto the road. then suck in air when cooling down. It was a sneaky leak because it would never leave a drop in the driveway, or parking lot, it would only leak while on the road.

Mechanicalbaron, first thing that comes to my mind is have the two halves of the sway bar end with the spline portion of a scrap torsion bar or axle shaft, so that the two spline parts sit next to each other. The two are joined together with the corresponding internal spline of the donor system, be it hub or whatever the torsion bar indexes into, the joining internal spline part can slide to one side separating the two. It would be exactly the type of force the spline was designed to experience, but probably less. It would be a lot of work, if the front sway bar dose not change offroad performance, then it would be one of those projects done just to see if it can be done, as a design challenge of sorts.

Well if you have the money, new tires are probably the best way to spend it on your vehicle.

You are making me regret throwing my rear swaybar in the scrap pile, but I have not noticed a problem with my stiff AC coils though. mechanicalbaron, the method you describe if I understand it correctly would put a twisting load on the disconnect right? I would think there would be a lot of mechanical advantage working to shear your pin. But I don't know how big of a sleeve you are considering, if big enough it could work.

Heh, join up to NPORA, post twice with little response form anyone about your problem, and then you end up solving it yourself. Thanks for the update though, when you say "new TDC" what is that in relation to? What I mean is, what other "system" that is separate from the engine needs to be lined up with TDC again? The reman engine should be ready to run right? Did you have to clock the distributor differently?

Meh, they are a little dry rotted but not bad enough to have me worried yet.

Thanks for the intro, I'm looking forward to some pics you took while enjoying your pathfinder! (First pic I thought, "that looks like a dealer pic" then noticed the watermark)

Gotcha, very similar to mine then, but I don't have skid plates perhaps that keeps me careful. Probably the best thing to bring wheeling with you is a wheeling buddy.

Not sure on the u-joints, or common parts breakages in general, how hard are you planning to push your pathfinder? I have heard of someone in here breaking a CV axle, but I think they were trying to pull another vehicle out of the mud in reverse, with a locked front diff, and a weird front wheel angle. If your pathy is stock, and you wheel within it's limits, I think it would take some real effort to break something. But a few things that come to mind to have with you anytime are: Spare radiator hoses, hose clamps and patch pipes to join a hose after cutting out the bad spot. A spare oil filter, these are not prone to damage, but if you need one, you can't fake it. Perhaps these are more like things listed in the lengthy "what do you always have with you" thread. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/12044-what-do-you-always-have-with-you/

If the joint is still good you can put new boots on and keep the stock axles. It seems the aftermarket replacement axles are kinda cheesy, but if it's just highway miles they are probably fine. I have driven on torn boots for months, twice, and still have the original axles with no problems.

This thread is reenforcing my decision to have gotten a NISSAN dissy when my camshaft angle sensor gave up the ghost.

Welcome to the forum!

I'm late to the welcoming party, welcome to NPORA!

Welcome!

Congratulations on your success! I also commend you for sticking with it until the end, sounded like a lot of headaches and a lot of people would have given up. (Please tell me the power valve screws were done during your rebuild)

I looked back through this thread and you mentioned a visible wheel wobble, it still wobbles? I don't want to patronize you, but have you checked the basics like wheel bearings, or perhaps you got a bent wheel. Can you swap wheels with one from the rear and see if it still wobbles?

Do you have another thread where you describe your shaking problem in more detail?