clkindred

Yeesh, sounds like you need more than just headlights, did the cop say anything about these other broken lights?

If you choose to get inside that thing, keep us posted on what you find. Oh and welcome to the forum!

As far as solving your problem, you will obviously need new boots. This is the thread with the thermoplastic boots. Link

Should have hung on to your factory original shafts, or that seems to be what I have gleaned from this forum. Aftermarket and reman'd aftermarket units don't seem to be nearly as good as OEM. That said, it sounds like cheap parts.

I can't find the term, perhaps there is no term for it, it might just be called welding splatter or something. On a side note, this splatter inside the piece means a weld blew through right? Any welders/fabbers know?

It might be, ehh what's the term? The little beads of metal that are created when welding, they could be rollin around, they are small, might sound like sand or something.

The Moog mounts are what I got when I did my lift about two months ago, time will tell I guess. Build quality seemed just as good as the stock ones that came off. Mine are for 96-my99 and they came with these little spacers that I did not use, perhaps they are for use with 01-04.

Welcome! Okinawa you say? I was stationed there for a couple of years when I was in the Marines.

Looks great! I also like your front bumper, what is it? if you don't mind my asking.

Nice!

I would tend to think anything is possible in regards to adding an auxiliary line-in to the factory system. I'm not sure how much amplifying the head unit itself does, because there is another amp located in the trunk. Feed that amp your audio and there you go. There is mention in the links you provided that the stereo will need to be on and playing for the pass through to work even though the signal is coming from outside. I hope someone who knows something about car audio chimes in, as this would be a good mod for a number of reasons. 1: Save the cost of an aftermarket head unit if all you want is the AUX line-in. 2: Wheeling on rough washboard or rocky roads and in dusty conditions seems to take a heavy toll on aftermarket head units (particularly the detachable face plate kind) aforementioned new HU might develop problems quickly. (Mine is) 3: No flashy stereo to tempt would-be thieves to break in to your pathy. Good luck and keep us posted!

Interesting, I always did like the look of the "face lift" pathys, I would not count on the fenders being the same from 96-99 to MY99-04, they are probably JUST different enough not to be interchangeable. Good luck though.

Yep, I replaced both of my tension pulleys to try to quiet my engine bay down a bit, did not help me. I wish I had just gone to a bearing shop with em and bought new bearings and pressed them in, prolly a lot cheaper and you replace the part actually at fault, not the whole damn thing!

This thread might have some useful info, but it's a lot to look over. Link Alot of people in you situation just get different wheels, but your wheels look pretty nice and it would be more money to get similar wheels as apposed to some steelies.

Looks sharp! Really like the colors, and just a quick weird question for ya, have you noticed the number of R50's you see around diminish after you got the lift? Hehe because I used to see them all the time around town, then I put on my lift and would like to see the stock ones for you know, comparison. But now I hardly see any.

Sounds like you are in a tight spot. It won't start AT ALL when warm? Dose it sound like it's trying to? Dose giving it some gas pedal have any effect on hot start? I had a vacuum hose come loose off my intake while driving on a washboard forest road and engine died, CEL and everything. It would start if I gave it some gas but would die if I let off. I'm thinking if my engine had cooled off it might have started, because the MAF reading was wrong because of the large intake leak, and I thought I heard somewhere that the ECU dose not take MAF readings until the engine is warm. Or is that o2 fuel trim? I don't know man, good luck I hope you fix it.

The springs will be fine, if they are damaged in any way other than superficial scuffs and scratches then you would not want them in the first place. It's just when these boxes with heavy steel springs arrive, it's hilarious.

Hehe, the best part is watching the ups (or whatever) guy/gal trying to carry a box that weighs what? ~40 lbs that has no structure.

No looks good, I wonder why the left and right struts were ten dollars different, mine were the same price, but I did pay like 60 bucks a piece for em from advance so it looks like you done good there.

Cool, I don't know about replacing the axle seal so I could not tell ya' but I seems almost everything is not a complicated as shops like to claim. What do you mean by "rear control arms? are you talking about the trailing arms?

You don't NEED new shocks for the lift, it will work with factory spec rear shocks just fine. So unless you want the extra flex from longer travel shocks (after deleting the sway bar) what you pathy has now is what your pathy needs. As for the camber bolts, I got mine from rockauto for about $12.00 apiece, mine were +or- 1.75 degrees adjustable and I got four. I was half expecting to break the stock camber bolts getting them out, so I chose to buy bolts to replace them all. Guess what!? All four stock camber bolts came out without fuss and four aftermarket camber bolts was way more adjustment than I needed. I still installed all four new camber bolts and kind of eyeballed the alignment putting it back together. Shop then did an alignment but they did not touch the camber, it was good! Yea so don't loose sleep over the rear shocks, although I thought there was a part number chart of a bunch of compatible shocks around here somewhere...

EWW! If that what the market wants then fine but, call it something else, NOT a Pathfinder. What kind of PATH are you supposed to FIND with that thing anyway?

It's a shame you are so far away, if you wanted mine you could have it for free.

Humm, I don't think a lift should cause this, I mean when the axle is level there really should not be any tension on the swaybar regardless of how far away from the body the axle is pushed. Unless you lift is way outside the specs of what we are all used to seeing.

You know, come to think of it, that little red box that flips up and down and covers the positive post on the battery is kind of built into the factory cable terminal. I remember replacing my terminals and the ones I got did not have provisions for this "thing" so I had to improvise. Sounds like this had to be done for your new terminals as well BUT, there is not a fuse engineered into this part of the wiring from the factory, so there should not be one there now. Here is a picture I have of these wires, the red "box" is bottom left with two wires coming out and going to the distribution box. Is this what you are talking about? *in the pic there is a small red wire with an in-line fuse holder, this is for my air compressor I wired in.