clkindred

Good to hear I'm not the only one who did that.

Yep, happened to me too. After I installed my new head unit, tail lamp fuse blew. But mine would NOT stop popping them. Put in new fuse, turn key, nothing, check fuse, toast. Turns out that I had the Acc. power wire hangin out behind the dash, because the new head unit was always illuminated and did not use this wire to light it up when you turn on the lights. It had gotten up against the frame and was shorting that circuit (dash lights, tail lights and front marker lights) to ground. It was a foolish oversight on my part to leave that wire flopping around back there. Had to go back in and account for that wire.

My water pump started to leak pretty bad at about 127,000 miles. As far as a timing kit, what else is there to replace than the belt and tension pulley? I just replaced the belt and tension pulley and water pump. Cam sprockets? Crank sprocket? Cam seals? Do the kits come with those?

Ah, well I just took a look under my hood and now I think removing the rad and shroud will make it a lot easier. I still think it can be done without doing so, but the times I have done it the rad was out. If you have never taken the rad out, just know the upper shroud (which is the majority of the shroud anyway) comes out attached to the rad. I have tried getting the rad in and then the shroud after. I fought it for a good 30 minutes until I tried with the rad and shroud together and it dropped right in. Have fun!

Hello and welcome! I'm sort of new to the forum myself, but I have had these belts off a few times. Just to be sure, this is for a 3.3L VG33? Your thing says you have a 99 or something. Different vehicle? Anyway, you should not have to remove the rad shroud or fan, you can if you want to though as it would make things easier by just a tad. The only belt that needs to be looped around the fan is the belt that turns the fan/water pump and alty IIRC. It's plenty long enough to get over the fan. The third belt you speak of I presume is the power steering belt, it's a "V" belt and the way it is tensioned is different than the other two. The whole p/s pump can be adjusted back and forth to tension or loosen the belt. It functions in a similar way as the tension pulleys for the other two belts, but it's the p/s pump that moves, not an idler pulley. The p/s pump adjustment has to be accessed from underneath. I hope this helps, and if you have any more questions just post em' up. Oh wait, the MY 99's have the VG33 right? After that went the VQ35?

Sure, how about 4 and one of those free hugs? JK JK I already picked some up, but thanks again.

You have a 98 SE? Is it white by any chance?

Hey what's up with us people from Colorado not saying hello right away? Took me say, two years. Grand Junction you say? I used to live there as a kid, I only saw Moab twice via mountain bike. Anyways, Welcome!

Thank you! Yep, straight shot. I kept the factory MAF housing and used an adapter that bolted to the housing one one side and had a 4 inch flange for clamping the filter to on the other. The way your MAF sensor mounts to your piece of black pipe? Dose it pose an air leak? Did you seal it with some silicone? Or dose it just fit tight enough?

Oh thank you, but seems like a silly thing to mail any distance. It's been on my buy list, but it has a low priority.

Hey! Good to see another factory air box ditched. Not that they are so bad but, you know it makes me smile.

*picks jaw up off the floor Wow, I love the setup. Love the gear.

Year: 1998 Model: SE NO LIFT Wheels: Pro Comp 15x7 BS: 3.75 Tires: Goodyear Wrangler Authority in 31 1050 15 Minor rubbing on fender plastic on front. The part behind the bumper. Some minor relocating of the plastic mounting to move it out of the way, now no rubbing ever.

A good old cross type lug nut wrench fits under the rear seat along with the factory jack, tools and whatnot. Another flashlight mounted in an easy to reach place while driving. 12 volt, 200 lumen, eye scorching tactical style. That sums up my everyday carry. I'll toss in other things when going into the mountains. I might cover those later.

There's my jumper cables! Cargo floor compartment has reflective triangles, 2 half hour road flares, duct tape and orange-ish safety... uh, tape? It's not sticky, the stuff you are SUPPOSED to mark things you are hauling that stick out the back. Pipe, lumber ect. The yellow stick is a fiberglass rod about 3 feet long. It's handy for poking, probing, and whipping through the air real fast to make that sound. A flashlight mounted near the driver side rear wheel well.

Air compressor, this one clips to the car battery, I hate those ones that plug into the cig lighter, my friend had one of those, fried it trying to fill up an SUV tire, (never did the job) after that it could barely fill a bike tire. What's in the white bucket? Recovery straps, 3 D-ring shackles, some nylon rope, rags and various tie-downs I did not want to untangle for the photo. BEEFY shackles I might add. The tool kit I got for Christmas.

Ok what next, how about my old shaving bag from my days in the Marines? In there I have various tools, zip-ties and whatnot. I modded a couple plastic storage box thingys to keep these things neat and organized. First one is tire repair stuff, plugs, plug tools, pressure gauge, valve caps. I still need some valve cores and core tool. Spare fuses and fuse puller tool.

Next up, a 30. cal. ammo can with about 8 or 9 15min road flares. I like to keep em' in the ammo can to keep them "fresh" Now for my homemade C02 tire filler upper. Cost me eh, 40 bucks or so minus the tank which I already had. Just getting started...

Oooo this is my kinda thread. I went out and looked in my pathy and this is the stuff that is in there at all times. First off, a view of my back storage, not to bad. Top of pile, first aid kit. I am not impressed by most store bought FAK's because they are little more than a bunch of band-aids. This one I put together myself and I keep it in a Pelican case. I'll elaborate on what exactly is in there if anyone wants. Let's see what else I have...

Hey! Most people have no idea what any of those stickers pertain to, and that's how I like it. I don't normally keep any firearms in my vehicle on a regular basis but I'd hate to have my window busted by some dirtbag who thinks they might get their hands on something cool. As for liking Magpul, I do like their products and the fact Magpul is located in Boulder, Colorado makes it even better. I also ordered a 12 inch black sticker I was going to put on the hood but decided against it.

I would assume these sensors are just simple momentary switches, but dose anyone know if they are closed or open circuit when tripping the light? If the light comes on when the circuit is closed through the switch (continuity, and what I'm betting my lunch money on) then you could cut one of the wires for the switch to prevent current flowing through and triggering the light no matter what position the switch is in. Or, if the light comes on when continuity is lost through the switch, you could wire around the switch and bypass it to obtain the same result. I know this sounds kind of a bad idea taking the switch out of the system, it's there for a reason, but it seems like with your stereo an all, there might not be a solid solution less removing your weather stripping.

Hehe yea, you don't have to drive very far to get away from it all.

Greetings everyone, I have had an account on NPORA for a couple years now, and I have decided to surface. This forum has been a wealth of information for me and will continue to be, so thank you everyone. I'll start off with some info about myself. I am 24 years old, turning 25 in April. I live in the city of Colorado Springs, Colorado. I get into the mountains with the pathy whenever I can (way less than I'd like, that's for sure) My other hobbies include: Shooting, camping, mountain biking, computers, I have a gas powered RC truck I'm fond of, but I break it every time I drive it Tinkering with electronics and mechanical devices and I dabble in chemistry, pyrotechnics and rocketry So anyway, here is what you all wanted to see, some pics!!! More to come later.

Hello all, this is my first time posting. I have used this forum for much needed info over the years, but this is the first time I feel I have something to contribute. The rear glass "door" sensor is indeed built into, or functions in concert with the latching mech. On my 98 R50, I had to transport something that needed to stick out the window. In order to keep the door ajar light off, I snapped the latch closed while the rear glass was open. To release the latch, I placed into the clasp (where the loop on the glass would normally be held when glass closed) a screwdriver (tool, not drink lol) applied slight upward tension while turning key to open glass. It popped back open. So long story short, if the sensor is suspect, then you might have to dig that latch out. Oh, and also I want to point out that in my case, I could get the light to turn off even with nothing in the latch by closing it, so it might not have anything to do with how far the window loop pushes in, but perhaps the position of the latch itself.