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OldSlowReliable
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Everything posted by OldSlowReliable
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Im so confused....my rearmost bolts are the exact same type as the third set of bolts (front to back, the other captives) they are the same width and everything, and the black metric screw will NOT screw into the bolt of the smaller stock metric screw...gah
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I wish I woulda.......cause I don't like the sound of cutting :S Although, I'd probably be griping about that either way...so...
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Grand Cherokee Springs in the rear
OldSlowReliable replied to 94pathfinder's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
yes^^ You can ONLY use XJ springs if those spring yield 3" of lift for an XJ -
just a question, so the two larger black bolts are only for the 93-95? Cause I was under the impression all four doors use the black bolts, but they aren't the same bolt as what is in there right now, they are much thicker, this coming from a 1991.... I feel like an idiot, i coulda SWORN someone said the black bolts are for 90-95
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gotta agree with 87, if I ever crack a windshield, I'd much rather spend the bigger bucks, and have someone come to me and do it right, and guarantee it versus me trying to do it, and possibly messing something up horribly, or worse spending 50 bucks on a windshield and breaking it before I could get it in....
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UCA= Upper Control Arm, we replace these with aftermarket UCA's to allow us to correctly lift the front suspension Springs- You can use a cornucopia of springs (hehe, big word!), the most COMMON non-designated spring would be the jeep grand cherokee springs, from a JGC pre 98 i think, it must have a v8 engine and you will need to cut down the springs a little to make them work with our setup. search 'rear spring options' or go to the how to section for more info You can also do what myself and another are doing/have done, which is find someone in your area selling 3" lift coils designated for a jeep cherokee XJ from rough country suspension, these usually go in the front of an XJ, and we use them in back for a pretty good spring option, they are softer so they are taller, but they won't fall out of the coil retainers so easy when flexing. Finally, you can go to 4x4parts.com or purenissan.com and order a specifically designated pathfinder lift spring. I think that 4x4parts.com offers a 2" lift coil set, and you can always just add a small coil spacer for another 1" or so of lift
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So after all this time, it just dawned on me that maybe the big bent thing of sheet metal in the rad kit may NOT be the main drop....so I started taking a look @ the two peices of metal with studs goin through one end, and two holes drilled @ every inch, making the diff between stud and final hole 3"....and it turns out the stud is the same size as the two bolts on the radiator... My only question is, how many bolts secure the radiator? I see the two right by the grille, and only have two drop brackets and this big thing of sheetmetal.... Diagram would be helpful too if anyone's got one Oh yeah, and while im here, where the HECK are the vacuum lines attatched to the passenger frame front, and the smog lines on the driver side fenderwell?
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passenger side steer! lol
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Im pretty sure im not mistaken, but you will probably need a lift with 32's After my ongoing experience with a body lift, and your mention of rust in your sig, i highly suggest a SL vs a BL if you choose one over the other...... The tire diameter doesn't matter as much as the width, a 31x10.5x15 needs a 7 inch wide rim, so I think you could run up to a 11.50 wide tire with that diameter and 15x8's.. You should also aim for either 4" or 3.75" backspacing :-) and don't forget, 6x5.5 bolt pattern! 15x8's shouldn't cost you any more than 40 bucks per wheel If your looking for aggressive and streetable, I'd go with a bfg series tire, either the MT or the AT.......depending on HOW streetable, and how much money you want to spend, both of these tires are well spoken for.
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I should mention I don't have an armrest anymore, i put it back on for a bit but while offroading it would slam into my drink and make a mess.....just an fyi
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jegs, summit racing..... Those would be your best bet. But you won't find any 15x6 to my knowledge, so best get a bl and sl then go with 15x10 or 15x8 and 33's
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What color is your Pathfinder?
OldSlowReliable replied to TeenZombie's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
whoohoo red!! -
Well, i knew about that, but did anyone else ever develop it? Kinda would revolutionize the r50
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I just put mine in the arm rest....have been since i bought the truck Passengers get to hold theirs
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he was making fun of the guy who paid 700 bucks to get an alternator changed........lawl did they ever come out with this lift?
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Where to find Euro Tail Lights (oem or aftermarket)
OldSlowReliable replied to GreyAliens's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
If you REALLY wanted to, i'd imagine you could rig something up to siphon off of your regular washer fluid, and get another pump like the one for your regular nozzles from a JY and then get a rocker switch and relay to rig it, then attach them to the bumper to do it....but I really don't see a point......its not like you have wipers on the headlights like a volvo, so it would just be covering them in windshield fluid...... -
yeah, I got to see the UA caravan in michigan, and all their apocalyptic buggies had sheet metal as a kind of fender over their open wheels.....pretty cool if i say so myself....
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150 miles short of 100k...
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I don't think so, the z24 was actually a z24i, whereas it depends what vg30 you're getting it from if im correct, because there was the vg30i and the vg30e, oh yeah, just to clarify, its a throttle body vs a carb, although it is very similar. I don't think a vg30i would work, because I believe they used an air box vs a circular air filter on top, and idk if it would serve the correct purpose
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WD21 "Bypass Hose" - part number? Name?
OldSlowReliable replied to DoctorBill's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
i think he means slick knows? -
see, I think thats where alot of the $$ goes, cause another 120 bucks would include the 4 shocks and shackles.....idk, i'm thinkin i'll go your way, cause i don't NEED shocks to fit 33's, just need the tire clearance....hmmm oh well....i'll call on monday to see if i can trick my way into it!
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i mean, heck, the idler arm brace came with a page of instructions, and thats like DUR DUR DUR! but I went out and set the rad bracket against shiz, and its not as wide or as tall as the radiator, so I dunno... Stupid A/C!
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the Performance Accessories 3" lift via 4x4parts.... It has all the stuff I need for the lift blocks, ie, 10 lift blocks, 6 bolts, 4 metric bolts, and the 2 special black bolts for the very back to replace two of the metrics, but then it has a bunch of other crap, that idk what its for.... Has anyone ever used the radiator drop bracket? If so, how the hell does it work? AC didn't bother shipping any instructions...
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So i got my body lift friday, and started to inventory all the crap they sent me, including a bag that had broken open, spilling washers, nuts, and bolts all over.......wtf, anyways, to start, I don't know wtf these few things in the picture are, one of them is the power steering bracket, but it doesn't specify anything about it, and the others aren't inventoried! Also, I have 14 bolts of the exact same size, with 14 nuts that go on each bolt......but NOWHERE in the inventory is there a bolt x14.....wtf? Oh yeah, how do they measure the bolts/washers/nuts? by the inner diameter/threads? thats how it usually is, but i dunno Couple of things idk bout, including a misc bolt that has a nut to fit it, but its the only one of its size.... total inventory-
