OldSlowReliable

spin the same= LSD (its locking them together) spin opposite= Open (its dissipating the energy going through the drive train)

That explains alot!

Yeah, I was also looking into that......but can't find anyone who stocks it. From what I can tell, after it dries, the heat of welding just mixes it into the metal instead of heating it up and burning it off.....making it ideal for protecting the spots that are gonna be covered up. I think I'll not end up doing plug welds, just stick with the around the edge

So, I got 2 holes....in my frame (teehee) And, I was planning on doing them this weekend, but ended up sleeping for almost the entire weekend....anyways, I'm starting to formulate how ima do it, and I'm gonna go practice more welding tomorrow with my 90amp FCAW from harbor freight... I grabbed a 3' stick of 3"x1/8" steel for the repair, and have a couple questions that I can't seem to get a clear answer for. This is my attack plan. 1- Wire brush the rust flakes away. 2- Grind the area down to nice shiny metal 3- Cut the new steel into a /_______\ form and trim to fit 4- Clean off the replacement steel nicely 5- Clamp new steel onto frame and tack in place 6- Weld in increments as to not overheat/warp it 7- Flap disk the finished welds all clean and paint with rustoleum (surrounding frame will be coated with rustoleum rust convertor) Now, here are my questions. After I grind the rust off of the area I'm patching over, should I coat all but the area where my welds will reside with rustoleum as to stop it from being exposed bare metal underneath my patches? Will a 90 amp flux be strong enough? although, anything is an improvement over a rust hole.. Should I be horribly worried about my gas tank during all this? Its kinda worrying me now! My gas cap is pressurized sorta, as in I unscrew it, and it goes HISSSSSSSSS with air escaping, so does this make it more safe to weld near? knowing that the gas is being trapped inside the tank? What is the best choice for cleaning off the rust and prepping? I'd think a flap wheel or a grinding wheel... Should I drill a hole or two in the patch steel for helping drainage and flushing out the frame, or just leave it as a solid piece? Or even drill a hole just through the patch steel, and then weld in the pit that it formed....... and onto the gas tank, and the passengers side.....HOW worried should I be about the gas tank and fuel lines? I'll probably grab a welding blanket from HF and throw it over that whole opening (including the filler lines)

not sure, but I'd think a full time locker would not be too great on CV's, but someone probably makes them SOMEWHERE

its been said, it has been used to repair a cracked engine block.... I'd think a skilled mechanic/welder could grind off just enough to weld it up....but I'm not certain. Take a pic? (i don't have headers, so Im working off of what ppl have described it as)

I was referring to swapping in from the nissan cars, "Would a LSD from a 91-94 Nissan 240sx fit in a 95 XE pathfinder? " and didn't want to complicate the answer

knew that was coming! I'd say find a rusted out or car-wreck pathfinder with a good tranny, and go with that. If you can get it for under 500 bucks, you can just swap trannies, and then make your money back in a part out......

afaik its the only front lsd option though.

I usually carry a whole pile of tools (wrenches, ratchets, hammer, screwdrivers, pliers, clamps...) tow strap, recovery strap, ROPE, shovel with serrated edge, jumper cables, flashlight... Nothing major, I don't get out on the trails too much, just parks and other organized areas.... :\

all that being said, mine will idle at like 1200 when its cold, but when its in drive it will fall to like 600, and will stay there after it gets warmed up

I don't think i've heard of a 240 having the correct LSD for our rear axles.......but there is a common swap from a 300zx that we grab their rear LSD, and it fits our Front IFS differential. Really, your rather lucky yours is open in the back, because you can more easily get a locker (not all lockers will fit the LSD carrier), so maybe look into that route? Btw, my XE has LSD, and I don't think any came with an LSD front diff from the factory

For removing, I heard putting it in the sun with a black garbage bag on the outside of the window softens it up nicely I'd use precut for the back window (most walmart rolls aren't large enough to do it in one pass) but not for the others...

wouldn't this lower your MPG though?

Are you sure about this? I thought the manual was rated @ like 5k, and the auto was like 3500

Like, clutch, resurfacing, and all of it Basically, how much did you spend over the course of time

that include working on the tranny itself?

I know I got that key code thing in my glove box (atleast im pretty certian I do) If you still got the broken key, i'd think they could cut another one...

What was the final cost?

how do you plan on mounting your 5 point harnesses? Building a roll cage?

And don't just buy offline, call a few local shops to see the kinda deals you can get, I got the Rough Country UCA's for 210+shipping w/o tax cause the guy is real cool, and looked around the area for people selling lift coils

don't forget your tie rods and bearings, check em by pushing on the wheel

This is just about for sure your heat sheild on your cat converter, trust me I have the same thing and it only does it after a little bit of driving, and when in drive, or reverse Before you drive it one morning, get on the ground, on the drivers side right at the back part of the door, and look for your catalytic converter (there should be two "bulbs" in the exhaust piping, first is the cat, 2nd is the muffler) Your cat should have a kinda of metal grate with a bunch of holes in it for heat dissipation, push on this on the ends, if it moves a fair bit, thats probably your issue. Another spot that may be rattling, is the exhaust pipe from the passenger side, before it meets up with the other side, there is a heat shield basically in the center underneath your truck (side to side) and about right behind the front wheels (front to back) that may be loose, it is held on by a U bolt deal, which you can probably tighten to fix the noise

Lol....I looked @ the sears site for pricing, and I saw two different TRE, moog and OE, 49 and 10....I hope they shoot for the 10.... Ah well....typical junk (If it worked that way, I would be riding on a nice CHEAP set of retreaded M/T)

oh well....went to sears to try and get the alignment, without me telling them about the belle tire diagnosis, they too claim my outer TRE on the drivers side is bad, and said they would order the part and install it if I come back tomorrow (couldn't source one today) I would fix it for 20 bucks, but the classic mom makes the rules, I pay the bills <_< and she considers the TRE too important for me to do