XPLORx4

Dang, you newer Pathy guys get all the cool features!

Mouse-over the words "interfered motor" in the original post. The "[ acronym=]" BB code does it.

Wow, cool! Thanks! That's awesome! That's exactly what I was looking for!

Yeah, that on top of the ~US$13000 asking bid, and it's not even Diesel!

My alternator/fan belt has started squealing at startup. A few months ago, I installed a smaller pulley on my alternator, and the idler pulley is adjusted all the way down. I suppose the belt has stretched a little now, and I can't tighten it anymore. Does anyone know the length of the alternator/fan belt? I'd like to try to find another one that's about 1-2cm shorter.

Whoa! That's cool! At first I didn't even know how you did that, and then when I quoted you, I saw the BB code.

Why are you using 93 octane? Headers or no headers, the 3.3L engine is designed to use 87, so you're just wasting $4 per fillup.

Sounded like a diesel. Did that engine even have electronics?

At best, the screw exited the cylinder and is caught in the catalytic converter.

You do realize that the power locks operate from OTHER THAN the key fob, right? First, test the operation of the power lock actuators by operating the door locks with the lock/unlock button on the door. If the locks don't operate properly, then the lock actuator in the door is bad, or the lock mechanism needs lubrication. You may need to remove the door panel to lubricate the mechanism. If the locks DO operate correctly, then proceed to the next test, which is whether the keyfob does what it's supposed to. Sit in driver's seat. Lock doors using lock button on the door. Press keyfob "unlock" button once. Driver's door should unlock. Press keyfob "lock" button once to relock driver's door. Press keyfob "unlock" button once. Wait 1 second. Press the button a second time. All doors should unlock. Note: if you press the button twice too rapidly, sometimes the system can't tell the two pulses apart. If all doors do not unlock with second press, then something is wrong with the alarm/remote lock control unit.

Don't get a 10" wide wheel. Stick with 15x8.

Yeah, that's what summers are like in the city. Spring and Fall are actually warmer than Summer because the rising hot air in the central valley sucks the cool moist air in across the bay, and SF gets the brunt of it.

"Both spin opposite" means right side spins forward, left side spins backward, and vice-versa, right? Either those sticker remnants aren't from the "Use LSD Oil Only" sticker and you really have an open diff, or the LSD unit in there is worn out, or the oil in the diff isn't LSD oil and does not contain the proper friction modifiers for it to operate properly. Unfortunately, without opening the diff and removing the third member, it'll be pretty hard to tell what you've really got.

Try removing the glove box and the glove box surround. There may be enough space behind the dash to the right of the blower motor, against the body. I installed an iPod adapter unit in that area using double-sided tape, but it's a bit smaller than 5"x5".

It depends on what you want it to look like.

How big is the tuner? You might be able to place it behind the glovebox or under a front seat.

Yep, they're pretty loud. They don't have the wah-wah-wah-wah-wah sound or buzzing hum you typically associate with MT tires, but they are much louder than my BFG AT's ever were. Good thing I don't drive my truck every day.

Oh yeah, I also bought a 2-door kit of Dynamat (4 long sheets of the stuff), and installed about 1-1/2 sheets of it on the front doors. I applied a big patch to each outer door skin from the bottom of the door to the horizontal reinforcing beam inside the door, immediately behind the speaker to about 1/2-way back, and a smaller patch to the interior door skin around the speaker. I didn't want to mess with removing the plastic moisture barrier; that black goo is nasty. I still have 2 full sheets of Dynamat left. (I think they're about 3 feet long by about 12" wide.) I suppose it can help quiet the loud howl from my MTR tires. Where should I apply it?

Over the weekend, my friend helped me build a very primitive enclosure for dual 8" subs he had in his garage to see if I'm happy with the sound. I forget the brand of sub, but it's not a "normal" brand. Each sub is rated at 8 ohms, and they're wired in parallel. I'm happy to say that the sound quality of my system has markedly improved! It sounds great! I tried the subwoofer box with only one driver connected, but the disconnected driver just acted like a passive radiator, allowing the connected driver to distort too easily. Plus, the enclosure is sized for dual 8's. Nevertheless, it still sounded much better than before. I connected the second driver back up, and it doesn't distort at high volumes like it did before. I think I just need some more time to play with the settings, crossover points, and amplifier gain to see if this is good enough. So, now I need to determine whether to use: a) a single 8" sub dual 8" subs c) a single 10" sub The main benefits of using a single 8" sub is that it can use a smaller box (taking up less cargo space) and the sub itself is basically free. However, the current "test" enclosure is designed for dual 8's, so I'd have to build another test enclosure for a single 8". Dual 8's sound pretty good, but the final box might be bigger than I prefer. Finally, if I go with a single 10", I would have to buy the sub and build its enclosure. Would there be a distinct advantage of going to a single 10" sub instead of dual 8's? (Keep in mind that I get the dual 8's for practically free.) Any advice?

Get a voltmeter and test that plug under your vehicle to see if that Xterra part will work for you. As for the locations of the taillight wiring harnesses, after you remove the right cargo panel, this is what you see: That black wire harness goes to the right taillamp, and the connector is shown here. The wiretap you see is connected to the taillamp [pink/black] wire (not the brake or turn signal). The other end of that plastic connector is connected to the taillamp wire harness, which is what you'll see when you remove the taillamp assembly. The driver's side harness is virtually the same, but it's probably tucked behind a bunch of other stuff, like some relays and perhaps even the Bose amp (if so equipped). Those three plugs you found are not the ones the Reese attaches to. You'll have to reach way around behind the larger opening in the body to locate the actual taillamp harness.

Hmm. What flares are they?

Here's a photo of a somewhat mild Japanese "MudJayson" Kaioh lift. Looks like only about 3"

Looks like it to me, although the AC LSD in the photo seems to be a little bit smaller, perhaps for the C200. AC often simply reuses the same photo for different sizes of the same product. AC LSD photo: This is my old H233B LSD. Note the taper near the ring gear bolt flange that does not exist on the AC LSD.

I don't know what AC sells, but yes, you can convert an open diff to an LSD simply by swapping the open carrier with an LSD carrier: Pic

Except too bad it's not available for the H233B.