XPLORx4

How do you you check for codes after the PCM reset? According to the service manual, the KS has "one-trip detection logic", and "a "trip" means "a driving mode in which self-diagnosis is performed during vehicle operation." However, it's not clear from the FSM exactly which "driving modes" actually initiate self-diagnosis. Since the KS code doesn't trip a MIL, it's entirely possible that the knock sensor DTC will trip after you have returned the vehicle to the customer, and the customer would never know, nor bring it back to you for repair since there's no MIL.

Your parts description is unclear. Which part are you referring to?

Actually, that's not correct. The knock sensor code means the knock sensor is not operating normally. What you just described above depicts normal knock sensor operation, which won't trigger the code.

Yes, it is. They call it the Polished Performer Plus Intake System. The photo they use is a generic "Weapon-R marketing" stock image. AC also sells the "Weapon-R Dragon Intake", which is simply called the "Performer Air Intake".

Thanks for the pics. The WR intake tube is oddly designed if it's supposed to be vehicle-specific, since the larger hose bungs are on opposite sides of the tube, while the factory tube has both hoses on the same side.

Oops, my bad, I accidentally got it backwards. Yeah, I guess you're right: venting all kinds of pollution to the atmosphere is a great thing. May as well just go back to 1970's-era engine technology and SMOG levels, huh?

Your posts makes it seem like venting crankcase blow-by gases to the atmosphere, rather than rerouting them to be burned to reduce emissions is a bad thing.

My guess as to the function of the "pipe cleaner" is to act as a large debris filter to prevent any large pieces of carbon or sludge that could loosen from the valve train from being sucked into the intake. But then again, it doesn't appear that our valve trains suffer from sludge buildup. Nevertheless, I would leave it there.

Any reputable tire store that has alignment equipment should be able to do what you need.

You mean, they always try to center the steering wheel. I've had more than a couple occasions where the steering wheel is not perfectly centered afterwards, and I've taken it back to be done again.

Don't remove the steering wheel to recenter it. 10 degrees off is not that much. There's no way the steering wheel could have "hopped a spline". Instead, you may have slightly bent a suspension component, shifted the steering rack, or bent the subframe. Even if the vehicle doesn't pull, your alignment could still be off. Check the subframe for damage, and inspect the steering rack bushings and the rack's position on the lower crossmember to see if it has moved, and get an alignment. If the rack is secure and nothing else is bent, an off-center steering wheel is easily corrected by toeing-in one wheel, and toeing-out the other.

I am thinking about having swapping my camshafts with regrinds from Schneider Cams. I understand the new grind will require new lifters. Is that correct, or can the old lifters be used with the new cams? If I need new ones, where is the best place to order them from? Anyone have a part number? Thanks.

Remove both sway bars, and get wider wheels/tires. I've been running with no swaybars on my rig for 4 years, and although it exhibits more roll, it still handles quite well. And yes, you're correct by stating that there are no [safe] swaybar disconnection methods that will work on the R50.

21.1 gallons. I've put over 20 in my tank at least once.

Why is your ABS destroying your transmission?

I haven't installed performance cams (yet). Marooncobra did. I don't think that the performance cams will harm emissions or fuel economy. In fact, I would expect the cams to improve fuel economy. There's an article about camshaft upgrades at nissanperformancemag.com.

The hoses in question here are the large ones attached to the intake tube, near the distributor in this pic:

Whoa! If I used a 10,000-mile OCI, it would be over 2 years between oil changes! Have you ever had a used oil analysis to find out if a 10K OCI is OK?

OUCH!!! That sounds HORRIBLE! I hope it heals well!

Send me a pic. I might be interested.

Nice pics, but OMG, 7 people!?! Where did you cram them in? Did you stuff the teens into the cargo hold?

What is? That the 96's isn't behind the wheel well, or that the 97-04 aren't in the engine bay?

Just avoid the Rockies altogether and take I-10 or I-40, unless you are planning to go through Denver. There are some grades on I-10 and I-40, but if you use engine braking wisely, shifting to 2nd gear to keep your speed down, you should be fine. When towing that much weight, don't plan to drive much faster than 60mph, and when ascending any kind of grade, count on not being able to do much more than 45mph. Also, depending on which trailer you get, how tall it is, and how heavy it is, you'll probably get around 11mpg for your trip. Good luck with your move!

Carbon canister is only present in the engine bay on 96 models. 97 and up have the canister behind the left rear wheel.

Yes, it really is necessary to put those 2 hoses onto the intake. They require vacuum from the intake to operate properly. Simply capping them with filters and leaving them unattached won't work, since they wouldn't have vacuum.