XPLORx4

When replacing the CV axle, you don't need to get it realigned. In fact, even if you remove the A-arm, the alignment will be unchanged. The only adjustable alignment parameter on stock suspension is toe. Caster is non-adjustable, and camber is only adjustable with the use of camber bolts.

Well, I guess you could remove the 3 bolts securing the A-arm to the subframe, too, but the bolts are pretty big and are torqued on tighter, making them tougher to remove. Either way, it's a lot less effort to separate the A-arm in order to slide the CV axle out than it is to separate the strut from the knuckle.

Who has been breaking axles with a no-spacers-added lift? OBX (running spacers) has broken several CV's. Kincaid (running spacers) also recently grenaded a CV (Click for the story). I've been wheeling for over 8 years, often with the front tires in the air, and have never blown up a CV joint. I did manage to snap the axleshaft at the splines once, but it was clearly due to metal fatigue. I would challenge anyone who has only spacers (no drop-brackets) installed to lift the truck off the ground, engage 4WD, and spin the wheels, turning the steering from full right to full left. That's the ONLY way to tell for sure if the CV axles can really handle the additional drop.

How will this site survive? Who pays for the hosting service?

Huh???? That last post made absolutely no sense to me at all.

Looks like the domain was not re-registered.

Yes, this is a different, easier way to replace the CV axle than what is indicated in the "How To" The balljoint is not where the arm connects to the frame, it's where the arm attaches to the knuckle, part #5 in the diagram below. The ball joint nuts are removed from UNDERNEATH the a-arm (see the three holes on each A-arm on the top of this photo): Once you get the truck in the air and look at the parts, you'll see exactly what I mean.

The tools you'll use to replace the CV are: flat screwdriver and vise-grips (to remove the hub cap as shown in this pic) snap-ring pliers to remove the snap-ring (instead of needle nose pliers as shown here) You will also need some sockets (12mm, 14mm), a 3/8" drive ratchet, and an extension. When handling the new CV axle, be careful not to put too much pressure on the cap over the inner CV joint. It can easily pop off pretty easily if the joint pushes against it, and then the grease inside will make a mess everywhere. If it does come off, it's easily reinstalled by tapping around the edges with a mallet. Jack up the truck and remove the tire. Remove the hub cap and snap-ring. Remove the 6 bolts securing the CV axle to the differential, rotating the differential/axle as needed to gain access to all of the bolts. If the axle rotates when you try to remove the bolts, move the transfer case lever to 4WD. Remove the 3 nuts holding the lower ball joint to the A-arm. Separate the A-arm from the lower ball joint and swing it down. With the A-arm out of the way, just slide the CV axle out of the hub (towards the center of the truck). Sometimes a grease seal will slide out with the old CV. (The new CV doesn't come with a new seal, so if the old CV has extra parts attached to it that you don't see on the new one, be sure to transfer the parts from the old to the new.) Insert the new CV into the hub in the reverse way you removed the old one, and reassemble everything.

On the hood latch support bracket, the TOP sensor is the one for the temp gauge. The bottom sensor is for the climate control system.

What do you hope to gain with a solid front axle? Are you just looking for more height?

Both lifts are available at AC (Automotive Customizers).

New hood, new fenders, new bumper, new grille, new turn signals, new marker lamps, and new headlights.

I have the sunroof, too, so with proper wiring, the console shown will work on yours, too.

The outside temp gauge, if your truck was equipped with it, is located here:

Wow, that is loud! Have you had any suspension, tire, or brake work recently performed? Check the following: Lug nuts tight? Strut bolts on knuckle tight? Strut mount nuts (3) on the top of the tower tight? Strut shaft nut on the top of the strut tight? Strut shaft positioned in the center of the strut mount? Strut mount in good condition? Lower ball joint Inner tie rod socket Swaybar endlinks Wheel bearings tight?

Regarding the noise you hear when rotating the driveshaft at the rear diff pinion yoke: A little bit of looseness is normal. It's just the gear backlash between the pinion and ring gear. Unless you hear other disturbing noises from the rear diff, don't worry about it. As mentioned above, other sources of clunking could be: • upper control arm bushings have failed, and during acceleration or braking, the axle will twist forward or backward, allowing the links to contact the body • shocks are not securely mounted, or the collar in the shock bushing has a much larger diameter than the bolt securing it, allowing the bolt to move around within the collar (metal on metal will make the sound) • antiswaybar links or bushings could be worn If you want to verify whether your upper control arm bushings are shot, do this: Go to a wide-open level surface (such as an empty parking lot) where you won't risk property damage. Accelerate to 3mph, place the transmision in Neutral, and quickly pull up the parking brake (but try not to skid the tires). Have an observer watch the rear tires as the vehicle comes to a stop. If the rear tires rock back and forth after the vehicle stops, it means that the entire axle is rotating (since the parking brake is on). The only way the axle can rotate is if the upper control arm bushings have failed. If you are able to rock the vehicle back and forth by hand while your observer looks under the truck at the rear differential, your observer will more easily see if the axle is rotating.

That apparently doesn't work, as they don't fit. Read about it here.

Heheh. Google is your friend: Nissan Diversity Antenna Adapter

Crutchfield sells the Nissan diversity antenna adapter plugs.

4x4parts resells the JWT pop charger intake as well as Weapon-R intakes (which they call "performer" intakes)

Besides courtesy nissan, these are my other main online OEM parts sources: pinnaclenissan.com www.nissanparts.cc

The fuel filter is attached to the body directly above the rear differential. You're going to have to climb under the truck to see it. If you remove the spare tire first, it'll give you a little more room to work under the truck so you don't have to lay down on your back. Be sure to wear safety glasses.

90seven- does your alignment printout indicate if the caster is out of spec? You can actually make small changes to caster angle yourself. On the subframe, just above the swaybar mounts, you can see a little tab with a hole in it that's generally lined up with a hole in the frame. On my truck, the holes weren't lined up at all. It used to pull to the right, due to the right caster angle being lower than the left caster angle. I fixed this problem by jacking up the truck frame, loosening the subframe bolts, and pulling the right side of the subframe forward and pushing the left side backward. I then took it back for a realignment, and that fixed the problem.

I mounted mine on the front passenger seat support beam between the seat brackets. It doesn't interfere at all with passenger leg room or ingress/egress, and is very easy to access from the driver's seat.

Since fuel economy is a factor in your decision-making, you should be aware that going from your stock 235/70R15 tire size to 31" tires will significantly affect your speedometer/odometer (will read 10% slower than actual). Therefore, bigger tires will make your fuel economy seem 10% lower than it actually is. Take that into account when calculating your fuel economy.