XPLORx4

As mentioned above, an air locker replaces the diff carrier, no matter if it's LSD or open: Before: After: And, for comparison: Air Locker >>>>>>>>>>>> LSD > open diff

Dude, you'd better get going on that SC pretty quick, or you won't have anything left but a pile of rust and pitted aluminum!

Well, finally! You got it right! When's the party?!

They suck. The ones I used are Harbor Freight specials. I'm done with using springs compressors like that. They take a long time to compress the AC springs, and it makes my [very loud] garage air compressor run way too often. Plus, after a few uses, they start to self-destruct. I've had to work on struts several times (my own plus helping 3 other R50 owners install AC lifts), and I think I need to upgrade my tool arsenal. I'm now looking into getting a more "professional" level spring/strut compressor, such as this, or a less-expensive one such as this one or this one:

OK, if it's an LSD you're after, then just get a new LSD third member for the rear. Don't worry about the front. However, if it's 4.636 gearing you're after (with or without an LSD), then just look for 4.636 diffs from 96-00 model years. They will bolt right into your 2003. All R50's use the same differential housings, just with different R/P ratios. The front diff is relatively straightforward to replace, although it's heavy and that could be a problem without proper tools. It's simply one rubber hose (diff breather), 6 bolts per axle on the CV's, 4 bolts to the driveshaft, and 4 bolts per side holding the diff to the subframe. This was my solution to getting the diff installed: Click for pic

When you replaced the struts, the top mounting plate was indexed to the bottom spring perch correctly, right?

OK, wait a sec here. Perhaps the obvious question that nobody has asked yet is... What are you trying to accomplish? In other words, why on earth did you buy another rear end?

Gasket? Why not just use high-temp RTV silicone?

Hahaha, yeah but you should see the condition of my drain plug. The previously square hole is so mangled, I think I'm going to have to weld something to it in order to get it off!

That definitely sounds like the differential breather fitting to me. You definitely do NOT have a locking diff. At best, it's a limited slip. An air-locker's fitting would be located as shown here:

Where is that "air fitting" you speak of? Is it on the 3rd member chunk, or on top of the axle housing? (In other words, it's not the differential breather you're seeing, is it?)

If you're using the stock fog light wires, I think they're only 20AWG, and will eventually melt with that much power going through them. There's a reason why the fuse is 15amps, not 30! You're going to melt your wires, dude. You should run your aux lights directly from the battery using a relay, using the OEM fog light wire only as a signal wire.

I picked up a waterproof color CCD "lipstick" camera for about $90 at my local Fry's Electronics. Just about any waterproof CMOS or CCD camera will work, as long as its power supply is 12vDC. I chose a CCD camera because it has better picture clarity than CMOS sensors. I selected a location to mount the camera, then ran video and ACC-activated 12vDC power wires to it. Then, the camera's video wire just plugs into my HU's video1 input. The above photos taken of the HU show what the camera sees when it's mounted as shown in this photo: I have since moved that camera (sorry, no pics yet!), and created a new mount for it that can rotate 360° with a dashboard-mounted switch, similar to what this guy has done: Undercarriage camera My setup is different, in that instead of using a servo to move the camera (which requires a servo controller and other stuff I didn't know how to do), I used this motor with a DPDT on-(off)-on momentary switch. One position (left) sends +12v/gnd to the motor, rotating it clockwise, the other position (right), reverses the polarity of the signal so the motor rotates counterclockwise. It will do one full revolution in about 12 seconds. As mentioned, if 93xe's DVD HU supports video input, this is quite easy to do for about $100.

Cool! Nice, clean installation! Fits in the factory opening perfect. Good job and great deal, man! I wish my HU had a 9-band EQ. Looks like a pretty nice unit. Does it support aux video inputs? If it does, you can do this:

Does it still run? No Check Engine Light? No loud clanking sounds?

This worked for me:

Heheh, get a personalized plate:

Hahahaha. LOL, fueler. I actually listen XM Flight 26, 80's, 90's and Cinemagic most often. DVD's are for when I go camping. Unfortunately, I *might* have to postpone my audio upgrade endeavors. Yesterday I received my DMV renewal. I need to get SMOG again. Crap. Two years ago, I failed SMOG and had to dump over $2K into it to get it to pass. Hopefully, this year won't be a repeat!

OK, thanks for the "bottom line" info. This is pretty much what I was looking for in this thread. I like clear music, but I actually am not that big of a mobile audiophile. The main problem I have is that whenever I hop in the truck, the sound is too different from my daily driver (Mazdaspeed6 with factory Bose system), which has tweeters, 2 front door speakers, 2 rear deck speakers, and a rear deck-mounted 9" sub. Keep in mind that I've had my factory Bose in the Pathy for 8 years, and except for one of the speakers buzzing because it got wet, I didn't have many complaints about it until I had a better OEM system to compare it to. So.... First, I'll look into replacing the fronts with some components. I suppose I'll try to sell the current speakers, so I have a little more budget to play with on a replacement set. I was hoping to stay around $100-$125 out of pocket. If I'm still not happy with the sound, I'll run the rear speakers from the HU to free up Ch3+4 for a sub. (I can probably simulate this using the fader.) I'll look into a custom sub, but that's likely going to get expensive. The HU has a semi-reasonable adjustment for Bass, Mids, and Highs, so an EQ will be last on the list, likely months out. Everyone- Thanks for the tips and advice. I'll let you know what I end up doing!

What you've just described is practically the same as getting stiffer springs. The biggest disadvantage to your idea is that you will have a higher probability of topping out the struts under average driving conditions, since the strut is closer to its maximum extension. It will also be a little harder to install the upper strut assembly because the coil springs will have to be compressed another inch or so.

What I meant was why would I need a set of door speakers whose power rating is so high when my amp only produces 40W RMS? The MBQuart QSF 216 Nano's suggested by Dan are way overkill, not to mention hundreds of dollars over my budget. Derrick mentioned "weaker" door speakers. Which "weaker" component speakers?

For reference: My Alpine MRP-F250 4/3/2-ch amp isn't über-powerful (and I'm actually quite satisfied with that). Here are its specs: 40Wx4 RMS (75Wx4 max) @ 4ohms 50Wx4 RMS @ 2ohms 100Wx2 RMS (180Wx2 max) @ bridged 4ohms My Kenwood DDX7017 head-unit amp is 22Wx4 RMS (50Wx4 max). Given these specs, I don't understand why I y'all are recommending super powerful speakers.

The Bose (Clarion) tweeters were not crossed-over at the amp. The Bose amp in the front doors has only 6 connections: +12vdc Ground IN + IN - OUT + OUT - If the tweeters were crossed-over, there would be another two connections on the Bose amp. But instead, the wires leading to the tweeters are soldered to the wires that plug into the woofer.

I removed the OEM tweeters, but the sound isn't changed very much. BTW, the OEM tweeters are 4-ohm and made by Clarion. They just use a capacitor. I'm pretty sure the original Bose 6.5" speakers were full-range. With a component speaker, where would the crossover be mounted? Inside the door panel?

They might stick out just barely past the flares with 31's. 4" BS is better, but it'll probably be OK. 1/4" isn't that much to be concerned with. For reference, this photo shows 4" BS 15x8's with 31" BFG AT's (no flares).