XPLORx4

I removed the stock airbox when I installed my JWT POP Charger. Otherwise, there's no way I'd have fit any kind of OBA in the engine compartment. These are pics I already have that show the space previously occupied by the ARB compressor, where I put the MV-50. I mounted the MV-50 at an angle, since the space between the fender and the steering shaft was clear. Your '98 may have vacuum lines and such in that space, though.

De nada.

I got it at Pep Boys, although 4wheelparts and other retailers carry it, too. You might be able to find one on e-bay or online someplace, too. Google for "MV-50 compressor" or "MF1050 compressor" to read all about it.

.77CFM?!! That's horrible, unless you don't mind waiting a long time to pressurize the tank. Read my earlier post above. I edited it. Also, a 3-gallon tank full of 120psi filled at home will probably only get you about 1 tire close to street pressure. For comparison, the $70 Superflow MV-50 I bought does 2.54CFM (although that's probably at 0psi). However, it will air up all 4 of my tires in less than 15 minutes.

That ebay deal doesn't show the duty cycle and CFM ratings for the compressor. Risky. You don't want to be trying to inflate your tires with an undersized compressor that has a duty cycle shorter than the time it takes to air up. But, in the end, it's up to you. My first "OBA" was a $29.99 cigarette-lighter compressor that I carried in the rear storage bin. The first time I used it, it took 45 minutes to air up 4 31" tires from 18 to 30psi. That got old really quick. My second OBA was my ARB compressor, which took about 25 minutes to do the same job, and the compressor ran VERY hot. Probably exceeded its duty cycle on every air-up. My final OBA is described in the link I posted above.

Rancho #99010 Link.

Yes. Driving in deep water with the fan running will break some of the blades, and could potentially damage the radiator as well. Broken fan blades has happened to me with a fan very similiar to that one because I forgot to turn off the fan before crossing a stream.

Because a CO2 system has such a large capacity, it can run air tools a lot more efficiently and longer than a 12v compressor/tank. Most lower-cost (i.e. under $150) compressors don't put out enough CFM to run air tools. With a small compressor and a small tank, you'll constantly have to wait for the compressor to build up sufficient PSI again before you can operate the tool. If you go with a larger more expensive compressor, such as the ExtremeAire, it's a different story. It's all a matter of how you want to use OBA.

Do you want instructions on how to remove the automatic tranny yourself and replace it with a rebuilt one that you're going to buy from the source you found?

What do you intend to use the air tank for, and what is your budget for OBA? If you're simply interested in airing up tires, you don't really need a tank at all. But if you've just been dying to have an excuse for carrying around your full arsenal of air tools in the truck all the time, then, yeah, get a tank. (Or better yet, get CO2. It'll go further.)

The ECU will operate just fine until about 10 volts (and even correctly operate the gauge cluster), but the warning lights glow immediately if the alternator output drops below battery voltage, not if the ECU voltage drops below 10. I don't know this for a fact, but I think the reason why 3 warning lights glow is because the alternator is driven by the same belt that operates the engine fan and water pump. When the alternator stops putting out the proper voltage, the system can't tell if the alternator has failed or if the serpentine belt has broken. Using 3 RED warning lights is a method for getting the driver's attention, so if the cause is a failed fan/water pump/alternator belt, the driver's attention will be directed toward the gauge cluster (and hopefully will also notice whether the temperature gauge moves, too), and can take corrective action to prevent overheating and possible engine damage.

As long as the tire doesn't actually contact the lower spring perch on the strut, there is no negative effect on performance at all, and therefore nothing to worry about. 30mm of clearance is actually quite a lot of space. You earlier said it was only 2 or 3 mm, which is definitely WAY too close! The main advantage of getting wheels with more negative offset is that you can run larger/wider tires, as well as increase the vehicle's track width (distance between left and right tires on an axle). Increased track width improves handling and cornering. Other than that, there aren't any significant performance advantages gained by getting "wider" wheels.

Click here to see my OBA setup. BTW, don't use OBA for inflating air mattresses. The CFM of even the best OBA is way too low to inflate an air mattress quickly and conveniently enough to make it worthwhile. Instead, use a battery-powered air mattress pump that's better suited for the task.

Uh oh, that's not a good idea. It could cause you some problems, especially on the strut bearing and the upper strut mount because of uneven spring pressure from misalignment of the top spring perch. Get it fixed right away.

Welcome to the forum, Kiwi! A 15x8 or 16x8 wheel with 4" or 3.75" of backspacing works well to fit either a 32x11.50R15 or 265/75R16 tire (with a " lift) or 31x10.50R15 or 255/70R16 tire (without lift). I have had 15x8 wheels installed on my truck for over 100,000 miles and they have performed quite well, no matter what kind of tires they've worn during that time span (31x1050R15 BFG AT, 32x1150R15 Goodyear MTR). Here is an example of how much the tires extend beyond from the wheel well with 15x8, 4" BS, 31" tires:

No pics. It pretty much looks just like the normal Warn hub, except instead of seeing nuts securing the Warn hub, you see hex-head screws. No biggie. The hex-screws are a little bit more of a pain to remove, since you can't use a common 12mm socket/driver. You need to use an Allen-style hex wrench. And yeah, I guess you could say I'm an engineer, although I don't have an engineering degree.

Several of my OEM studs snapped off inside the hub, and I could not extract/drill them out, so I had to replace the whole hub. So rather than use the Warn studs, I decided to go with cap screws:

Heheheh, I recently flushed my tranny with Red Line ATF using the same method, and as I poured each quart in, my friends helping me that day kept saying "Ka-CHING Ka-CHING", since the stuff is so d@mn expensive.

2-3/8 quarts for the TX-10, according to my FSM.

OK, I think I'm done (for now)! I thought I'd give y'all an update on what I did. I took the experts' advice and got myself a 10" sub. I got a Polk Audio db104, and constructed a box for it that fits in about the same place as a JL Audio stealthbox, although my box is smaller and more crude. It's not carpeted yet, and I haven't decided if I'm going to keep it or try building something a little more custom, like the stealthbox. The sub is powered by the bridged rear channels of the amp. The front pair of speakers are powered by the front channel of the amp, and the rear pair are powered by the HU. I disconnected the factory tweeters. The sub can get far louder than I really need it to be. It can actually overpower the volume from the door speakers before distorting, so I've turned down the gain a lot to better balance the sound. I've set the front/rear speaker high-pass crossover to 100Hz, and the sub low-pass crossover to 120Hz. I also installed some Dynamat (Original, not Extreme) in all of the doors, but I didn't cover the whole door to seal it up. It was much trouble to fuss with the plastic moisture barrier, plus, I don't have enough Dynamat to do that anyway, and I don't really want to spend another $100 on the stuff. Instead, I placed semi-large pieces of Dynamat on the easier to access parts of the interior of the doors to dampen vibration. I haven't driven the truck enough yet to determine how much lower road noise is, though. Overall, the system is much improved. I'm sure with a little more tuning, I can get it to sound better, but for now, it's a big improvement. Thanks for everyone's help and advice!

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If I understand correctly, you just want to remove crud/bugs/debris from the AC condenser and radiator, right? To do this "right" you really only need to partially drain the radiator (just low enough so that you can remove the upper radiator hose without spilling coolant). Remove the undercarriage splash guard, remove the radiator cap, and loosen/remove the radiator drain plug. Drain about a half gallon out into a clean bucket (so you can reuse the coolant), then quickly put the plug back in. Unclip the lower fan shroud from the upper fan shroud. Remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator. Remove the upper fan shroud. Remove the engine fan. Spray water through the radiator from the engine side. Remove the upper radiator support brackets, then tilt the radiator toward the engine slightly. Not too much, though. There's not much clearance between the radiator and the steering box. That opens up a gap so that you can spray water through the AC condenser. That should improve airflow through the radiator. Reinstall everything and you're done.

Wow, yeah, your ECU is fried, too, along with who knows how many other sensors and systems. I was surprised that you didn't mention check-engine light in your first post. Expect to spend somewhere anywhere between $1000 (DIY+junkyard parts) and $4000 (take it to a shop) for repairs. And I'm sure you'll find all sorts of other problems as time goes on (headlights are full of muddy water, ABS doesn't work, dashboard doesn't work, transmission dies early, etc.) You'd probably be better off driving it back into that pond and calling your insurance company for an estimate. Otherwise, depending on how many miles are on it, you could sell it on autotrader or craigslist as-is for around $4K. You may as well have parked it in New Orleans during Katrina. If I were you, I wouldn't get an older Pathy. It wouldn't have fared any better in that situation. I would suggest getting one of these. Your username implies you prefer water to land, anyway. LOL.

Whoa, dude! What's with the latest trend of R50 owners thinking they bought submarines?!! Nissandoms' advice usually works, but in your case, here's what you need to do before performing those steps: Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove front seats. Remove center console/armrest. Remove and replace airbag computer (shown in photo below) Reinstall center console and seats Reconnect battery cable. BTW, you'll probably need new speakers, too. And lastly, change all of your fluids.

Oh, yeah, I knew about the heated mirrors. But it would be cool to have the remote window-rolldown feature. The horn-honk thing would be handy occasionally, too. Come to think of it, a button to release the rear hatch glass would be nice, too [cough]QX4[/cough]!