XPLORx4

I hope that tow truck didn't need to tow you very far. The transmission and transfer case lubrication design requires that the truck be towed with all 4 wheels off the ground (i.e. on a flatbed) if the engine isn't running, or the transmission could be damaged.

Dirty battery terminals? Loose, corroded, or cracked battery cable(s)? Are you sure you tightened them down properly?

For early-model Pathfinders, the XE (and LE) rack has a longer throw than the SE rack, which means that the XE/LE turning circle is smaller at full steering lock. This is because these models were equipped with smaller tires, and had less risk of rubbing. Steering specs: Turning diameter: XE/LE 35.4 ft ..... SE 37.4 ft Turns, lock-to-lock: XE/LE 3.2 ...... SE 3.0 Basically, if you want a smaller turning radius, get the XE rack. If you want less chance of rubbing with big tires on the inside of the frame (especially on the right-side fuel-line cover), get the SE rack.

Huh? Do you even know what SAS means?

Yes, the label can come off the grille, and the grille can be removed from the lens.

IPF makes some compact lights (although they're driving lights, not fog lights): CLICKY They're a little spendy, but less than PIAA, and because they're not as well-known as PIAA, they're not as likely to get stolen. I have 2 pairs of them on my roof rack. This photo shows an example of what they look like:

Are you sure it doesn't have a tranny cooler? My 97 LE has one. It's in front of the AC condenser in the lower left corner, as you're standing in front of truck. Brakes: ~ $200 Tranny cooler: ~ $100 (if not equipped) Tires: $800 Trailer Hitch and Wiring: $200 Total: $1300 Do you have the title to the vehicle now? What would you be replacing it with? How much will the replacement vehicle cost? It sounds like you're wanting to trade it in anyway. Are you just looking for an excuse?

Do you have photo of the damage?

Check the info in this thread.

You can find it for lower prices ($150) if you sneak in on another forum's group buy. Check out this google search for Scan Gauge Group Buy. If you think about it, a standalone code-reader costs about $50 or more, and all it can do is read codes! The SGII can do much more. It's definitely worth it.

Bah, includes hardware, pulleys, belt and piggyback computer, but for that much money, it doesn't include a new hood?!

That's normal. Nothing to worry about. When you disengage 4WD, there is occasionally a little bit of drivetrain binding (due to differences in front/rear axle speeds). The slight binding prevents the transfer case from disengaging. When the binding is relieved (by simply driving or by turning left/right, 4WD will disengage. This is typically more noticeable when on high-traction surfaces, such as pavement.

The hubs may not fit the OEM wheels due to the size of the center hole on the wheels, but the hubs should fit on the axle splines. The main problem with manual hubs on the automode transfer case is that when the hubs are unlocked, the transfer case can get "confused" because it expects the front driveshaft to be rotating. When the hubs are unlocked, the front driveshaft doesn't rotate. There's a risk that you could damage the transfer case if the hubs are unlocked.

Actually, "exponential" is not the correct term. The % difference in tire size is constant, not exponential. You may be confused by the difference between reported speed and ACTUAL speed, which does increase the faster you go: Speedometer @ 25mph + 3% tire size error = 25.75mph ACTUAL Speedometer @ 60mph + 3% tire size error = 61.8mph ACTUAL Speedometer @ 80mph + 3% tire size error = 82.4mph ACTUAL

First thing you should do is take into account any speedometer accuracy errors introduced by changing your tire size. A 245/70R16 tire is 29.5" in diameter. What size are the tires currently? Let's say they're 245/65R16, which are 28.54" in diameter. The new tires are about 3% larger (29.5/28.54=1.03). So, your speedometer would read 3% too slow, your odometer would read 3% too low, so your MPG would seem to be 3% lower. Basically, for every 100 miles you drive, your odometer would only read 97. Run the actual numbers for your current tire size.

Would you like a soup or salad with that?

Daddy Rim looks to be affiliated with NX4 in some way. His signature links to NX4, and battery hold-down looks like the NX4 product. Plus he's the moderator of NX4's new forums. Paging Daddy Rim to this thread!

I don't have the Nissan module... yet. Yes, the SGII can reset the check-engine light as well as read the codes. Here's my scan-gauge:

Really?!? Are you sure? I thought they were all 4.636:1 after 1998. The 3.5L engines still use the same transfer case as the 3.3L models. The main difference between the 2 available transfer cases is: 1) "all-mode" 4WD dial-selectable full-time transfer case has a 2.569:1 low range, and cannot be modified. This transfer case is typically available in the Pathfinder LE model, and in the Infiniti QX4. 2) lever-operated part-time transfer case has a 2.02:1 low range, and CAN be modified to fit lower gears sold by 4x4parts.com (3.7:1) or Calmini (3.92:1) for about $1300. This transfer case is shared with just about all Nissan 4x4s prior to 2005. Front R200A diffs on all years are open. Rear H233B diffs (33-spline axles) are also open, unless optionally equipped with a viscous-clutch-based limited-slip (which IMO, doesn't work at all when a tire is in the air). The only locking differentials available are ARB air-lockers, which run about $1000 each installed. Other aftermarket stuff (such as lifts, armor, etc.) for the Pathfinder is unfortunately rather limited, compared to something like an Xterra, Jeep or 4-Runner, if you're also considering one of those other makes.

Yeah, but I think possibly that fueler was referring to the R50 platform in his post...

What about 'em?

I have the Scan-Gauge for basic monitoring while driving. For advanced diagnosis, I use autoenginuity software on my PocketPC.

Looks good! Now just clean off that battery!

Actually, yes, a little bit. I installed the fittings as high on the inner slider bar as possible so that they would be less likely to get damaged. If you look at the rock rash already on the sliders, you can see that most of the scrapes are on the bottom of the inner bar or on the outer edge of the outer bar. Hopefully the close proximity of the lateral bars on my sliders will protect the fittings. There's not very many scrapes on the lateral bars. But, I will probably need to pay more attention to the line I drive on really tough trails. If it does prove to be a problem, I may just add a 45° elbow between the slider and the fitting to angle it upwards a bit.

Adding to the above tips: 1) As said above, AIR DOWN! Anything more than 16psi is way too high. 10-12psi is where you want to be when driving on sand. Airing down even further (to 6-8psi) can also help, since your vehicle weight will be spread across more tire tread, allowing for more flotation on the sand, but you'll risk blowing a bead. 2) Bring recovery gear (at least a tow strap and a shovel) in case you do get stuck. 3) If you start to bog down, STOP IMMEDIATELY! Don't spin the wheels! You're about to get stuck! You may need to shovel the sand in front of or behind the tires so you can get moving. 4) Do not use 4LO. You really need to keep those tires spinning to drive in sand. 4LO puts too much torque to the wheels at low speeds, and it doesn't allow you to drive fast enough to keep your momentum.