XPLORx4

With the stock 15x6.5 steel wheels, they'll be a pretty tight fit and you may have rubbing issues. The 15x7 SE alloys fit 31's without problems. Will you ever want to run larger than 31" tires? If so, get an inexpensive set of 15x8 wheels with 3.75 or 4" backspacing. They will accomodate up to 32x11.50R15 tires.

He means clean the corrosion off the battery terminals.

Try replacing the bulb first (or at least swapping the left and right bulbs to see if the problem moves with the bulb or not). The low-beam filament of the bulb may just be burned out. DRL's use the high-beam filament at a lower voltage, which explains why your high-beams and the DRL's work, but the low-beam does not.

The harness should come with the light, and since the wiring connector is the same, it means that either harness (old style or new style) will plug right in.

Similar to Pezzy's and many other tire carriers, my bumper's tire carrier also uses a similar spindle for the hinge. The most important thing about welding to the spindle is to prevent it from getting too hot, or the metal will crystallize and fail. My spindle was TIG-welded in phases to keep the metal cool. Probably a safer solution is to build the tire carrier hinge in double-shear, with a bracket above and below the hinge, and not use a trailer axle spindle at all. In this pirate4x4 thread you can see how the trailer spindle snapped (crystallized metal), and the redesigned hinge was built in double-shear. For the latch, I recommend this part, #5071A62. (To order, go to mcmaster.com and enter "5071A62" in the search field.)

The 96-99 taillights have a black surround with amber turn-signal lenses, while the 99.5-04 taillights have a red surround with clear lenses and amber bulbs for the turn signals. The wiring connector is the same for all model years. 96-99 on the left, 99.5-04 on the right:

From a trip I just took last weekend: More from that trip here

Any brand replacement will work fine.

Yes, I'm positive. The 3 lights glowing on the dash is the absolute tip-off (plus your SGII reading 19 volts!) The voltage regulator is built-in to the alternator, so you need to replace the alternator. Dude, seriously, don't operate your truck anymore! You're surely going to fry some electrical stuff in your truck if you keep running it!

Voltage regulator has gone bad. Don't drive your truck any further until you get it fixed, or you'll fry the PCM!

Bingo! Other details include: one is dirty, one is painted.

Try 4wheelparts.com for 15" wheels. Try 4x4parts.com for polyurethane bushings. The wobble in your rear is caused by worn rear trailing arm bushings. Here is a trailing arm that has been fitted with poly bushings purchased at 4x4parts.com:

Do you have any check-engine light? Check your air filter, too.

Well, you didn't say you were changing the ball joints! Yeah, you have to partially slide the CV from the outer hub (just remove the snap ring) to replace the ball joints. It's easy if you separate the ball joint from the A-arm first, then you don't have to mess with unbolting the strut from the knuckle.

You don't need to remove the CV axle at all to remove the A-arm. You only need to remove the 3 nuts holding the ball joint to the A-arm, the 2 bolts securing the A-arm to the frame, and that's it.

What are you trying to fit in them? They hold 500mL water bottles, soda cans, and medium-sized fast-food drinks just fine.

The translated text doesn't seem to indicate adjustability. It seems to indicate a fixed adjustment that is designed to be used with a 2" lift. If I had to guess, I'd say that the bolt-holes for the ball joint are slightly further away from the A-arm bushings than the original factory part, which would provide some negative camber.

So, do you have any updates on the progress of this?

Yes, 98silverpathy did install the S1 cams, and he recommends them. I would eventually like to do that to my engine, too, but I'm waiting for some more fundage before taking the "$500 cams+new lifters+labor costs" plunge. I totally broke the bank last year, pumping nearly $5K into my rig. Ouch.

Here are some photos of my trip 4 years ago to Moab.

There's more info here.

The engine prefers to run on 91, but will also operate at reduced performance and potentially reduced fuel economy, with 87. Considering that it costs over $50 to fill up the Pathy these days, an extra $3-4 per tank for 91 isn't really that much extra. The 20-cent-per-gallon savings (roughly 6% savings at $3.00/gallon) of using 87 may potentially be negated by lower fuel economy. If you get 17mpg (~$0.176/mile) with 87, but get 19mpg (~$0.168/mile) with 91, you'd actually save 4% per mile in fuel costs by using 91 instead of 87. You should perform some experiments to determine your average mpg with a few tanks of 87, and also with a few tanks if 91. (Averaging over several tanks will reduce fluctuations caused by different driving patterns between different tanks of gas.)

Do the fans cover the entire radiator? I recently uninstalled a FLX-295 fan from my rig. It ended up causing me too many problems for my application. I would see temps reach up to 230° while climbing steep grades at 95°F ambient. After I reinstalled the stock fan, I haven't seen the coolant temp get any higher than 218°. Unfortunately, I don't think there are any dual-core radiators available for the R50. The clearance between the radiator and the steering box is really tight. (Pic here.) So, try hosing the mud/dirt/bugs out of the radiator, adding a bottle of Water Wetter to your cooling system and keeping the A/C off under those circumstances.

Are you running the stock engine fan?

OK, time to beat a dead horse. I guess I'm still not quite happy with the sound. I downloaded an audio test CD that has 63 tracks of 10-second pure sine-wave tones from 20Hz to 20KHz. It seems overly loud at certain frequencies, and decidedly quieter at others, so I'm guessing I need an EQ to help balance the sound output. I'm having a tough time trying to find an EQ that will allow me to tune both the front channel pre-outs and the subwoofer pre-outs on the HU. The HU has a subwoofer on/off and separate volume control and that I would like to retain. Is this EQ any good? Any more tips from the pros?