XPLORx4

1/2" square drive. Remove the fill plug before you remove the drain plug.

Yes, your math is correct, assuming that your speedometer was accurate before the tire swap, and that the actual tire size is really what it says. The actual diameter and circumference of a tire varies widely based on its construction, tread depth, etc. In fact, different brands and models of same-sized tires can often be different actual diameters. That's why it's best to acquire your actual speed with a GPS or other known-accurate method. However, in the absence of such equipment, your approach is good enough.

You will see to the left of each image on your photobucket site (underneath the advertisement) 4 different tags, for e-mailing, etc. The last one is the [ IMG] tag used by this forum. Copy it and paste it in your post.

Most likely, yes. At least, it did for me. Your actual results may vary. Instead of swapping gears, it's probably a lot cheaper to just get a GPS reading of your speed or odometer to calculate the % error, or travel a known distance and see how far off your odometer is. Some highways have mile-markers that you can use for this purpose, too.

Yes, it will give mileage, and it allows you to enter a speed correction factor to compensate for larger tires. (I used a GPS to find the compensation factor for my truck, which is 3%.) The easiet way to calculate your actual fuel economy is to: First, make your speedometer/odometer accurate (or at least be aware of how inaccurate it is). The inaccuracy is expressed as a PERCENTAGE, not in MPH. If you speedometer reads 65 when you're really going 68, the correction factor is ACTUAL divided by REPORTED, (68/65), or 1.046, or 104.6%. That means when your trip odometer reads 200 miles, you've really traveled 200 x 1.046 = 209.2 miles Here's how to calculate your MPG for the last tank of gas you used: Refuel your truck up completely until the pump shuts off. Reset the trip odometer to zero. Drive until your tank is below 1/4-tank left. Refuel your truck completely until the pump shuts off. Note the current trip odometer mileage. Note the quantity of fuel you just put in. Divide trip odo by gallons to calculate MPG for that tank of gas. Note: you MUST reset the odometer at each FILL-UP, and you MUST fill-up the tank each time to continually track your fuel economy. It's helpful to use the exact same gas pump to be most accurate, due to differences in the way each pump clicks off. Naturally, this is not always practical, so you may find that there is usually some error in the exact amount (+/- .5 gallons) used.

No. The lower spring perch on the strut is not affected by a coil spring (suspension) lift.

Get backspacing of 3.75 or 4" and they shouldn't hit.

No offense, man, but that is a more retarded question than asking how to remove your windows. Go to yellowpages.com, and type in "auto window tint" and your zip code. Or, use google: auto window tint in philadelphia

Yes, but AFTER the bezel has been pulled out from the dash.

x2. The "brake" light on the dash glows if the e-brake light is engaged or if the brake fluid level is low. If the fluid is low, it means that your brake pads and shoes may be getting close to needing replacement. Inspect the brakes to see if they need to be replaced. Also, check the color of your brake fluid. It should look like a pale ale, or at the darkest be honey-colored. If it's darker than that, you should perform a full flush and bleed when you replace the brake pads/shoes.

Yes, the vents are attached to the faceplate. Refer to this document for assistance.

That's pretty much the response I got when I polled the R50 community after my custom bumper was done.

Ah, I understand now! I always thought of it as a "MPG correction factor". What is yours set for? In my Mazda, I set it to 4.5%, but on the Pathy, it seems to be close enough with 0.0% (no correction). Actually, on the Pathy, I can't seem to get a repeatable FILLUP gallons vs gallons ACTUALLY consumed. Sometimes it reads high by 0.5 gallons, sometimes low. It's probably because I don't fill it up at the same station every time...

Tank error? What's that?

Perhaps the torque converter or the bands are referred to as a "primary drive belt" in New Zealand? ????

Maroon- the original poster has a 2001 (probably in U.S.), which has the 3.5L. The PCV valve on the VQ35 engine may be located in a different location on than on the VG33.

See attached.

I only say that because it looks like something I would be hesistant to tackle myself, and I consider myself to be pretty good with automotive work (more than a 4/10, anyway). I don't even want to change my own timing belt. I'm sure I could but it actually looks like more work than I'm willing to put up with.

10. :tonguefinger:

Yes, it should be very hot to the touch. See my reply to your other post on the 4x4parts forum.

x2

I think you should get a silver 1998 pathy, so you don't have to change your screen name.

You're better off using ATF, not ATD: How does Torque-Driveâ„¢ compare to AMSOIL Synthetic Transmission Fluid (ATF)? Torque-Driveâ„¢ was created to satisfy the concerns of customers currently using TranSynd®, and it carries with it the confidence to be used for the intervals established by Allison. AMSOIL ATF is a more advanced product with universal applications such as Mercon V and ATF +4. AMSOIL does not recommend draining or switching to Torque-Driveâ„¢ unless the Allison customer intends on following the extended drain interval recommendations of Allison. My Pathy is using Amsoil ATF, which I added as part of a full tranny flush. I spent over $100 for the 9+ quarts needed to fully flush the tranny. A drain and fill doesn't change all the fluid. I'm also using the 75W90 severe gear oil in both diffs. I don't have an LSD, so I don't know if SVG is LSD-compatible. No problems with either.

Note that any R50 that uses the all-mode transfer case can NOT be upgraded later with crawler gears, and some folks have reported that the installation of unlocked manual hubs causes the 4WD light to flash (indicating a sensed malfunction). On the other hand, the stock low-range gearing of the all-mode t-case is 2.569, instead of 2.02 in the lever-operated t-case. Good luck finding the right Pathy!

So long as you don't completely mutilate it when you remove it, it should be reusable.