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My Pathy's rear main seal has been leaking for a quite a while, but recently it's started to worsen, and I think it's time to be fixed. Does anyone know what is involved in replacing the seal? I know the tranny and engine have to be unmated and the oil pan dropped, but I'd like to know what steps are involved with this repair. I will probably be having a shop perform the repair. I know that removal of the oil pan will require dropping the front diff. I will remove the front diff myself easily enough. However, to remove the tranny, what has to be removed? Does the t-case need to be removed separately? T-case shifter linkage disconnected/removed? Are all of the tranny-to-engine fasteners accessible from underneath the truck, or do you have to access some of them from inside the truck through the shifter console? What about the tranny crossmember? Does that have to be removed as well? I don't want a shop to start disassembling my truck before I've ensured that all of my customizations have been moved out of their way, so they don't screw something up. Thanks.

OK, sign up another 499 more people like you, and maybe Calmini will do something about it!

The potential market wasn't big enough to warrant production (there just are not enough R50 owners who use them off-road). Calmini [correctly] speculated that most people who lift their R50's would be unwilling to pay the high price of this lift. The coilovers alone were over $1000.

I bought the JDM HID headlamps from a wrecking yard when I was vacationing in New Zealand in early 2005. They are only available in the Asia-Pacific market. Even used, they cost me a bundle. BTW, the link you posted doesn't work. But, I think I found it: HID upgrade kits? recommendations? problems?

It was a pre-production 2001 R50 that was given to Calmini by Nissan Corp. to develop prototype parts for. Unfortunately, due to low anticipated demand, the prototype parts never went into production.

The FJ coilover shock is designed to withstand vertical forces, and it doesn't look strong enough to withstand the lateral loads that would be placed on them during cornering like the R50 strut. The R50 strut shaft is nearly 3/4" thick, and the strut body itself is pretty substantial. I would guess that if you wanted to do a coilover setup, you'd have to get something like this: Click for more pics

Click (not ), scroll below the message box, and click "Choose File" on the right. Select your pic to upload (jpg preferably), then click the green "upload" button. Wait for the file to upload, and note when "Manage current attachments" will become (1), then scroll down and click "Add Reply".

If you're buying Max's front diff with the 4.636:1 ratio, then it should work on your '02.

I assume you mean a lower cost alternative that has similar characteristics as an Optima? Check out Exide Orbital batteries.

That's called the strut insulator. And yes, I have replaced them before because the D-shaped hole had become worn. I typically recommend replacing them whenever the struts are replaced.

I would perhaps not provide so much technical detail to a prospective buyer. I would say, "The sound you hear is the normal, expected behavior for the lift installed on this truck. The sound is caused when the strut reaches the top of its range of travel and hits the upper bump stop. Other Pathfinder owners with this lift installed (as long as over 120,000 miles) have experienced the sound also, and have never had any problems introduced as a direct result of the strut clunking sounds."

That sounds about right. This happens because the truck body has upward momentum while the tires/suspension move downward. Since the struts have a limited travel range and you've just DECREASED their downward travel range by lifting the truck, they reach their maximum extension more frequently than before. For example, let's say that stock suspension has 4" of uptravel and 4" of downtravel, or 8" of total travel (fully compressed, bottomed-out to fully extended, topped-out). When you lift the truck, it changes the "at rest" position of the suspension, creating 6" of uptravel, but only 2" of downtravel to become fully extended. It's the smaller distance from "at rest" to "fully extended" that causes the knocking/clunking sound you hear as the struts reach their maximum range of extension. My truck has had its lift installed for over 120,000 miles and it has not had any problems due to strut "topping out". This behavior is an unfortunately normal side-effect of installing a suspension lift. Furthermore, the struts cannot be safely lengthened because doing so would increase the total downtravel and exceed the maximum operating angle of the CV axles. Bottom line: get used to it (i.e. don't be alarmed when you hear the "thunk").

Caster is not adjustable on the R50. Camber isn't adjustable except with the Ingalls camber bolts. Toe is the only "adjustable" alignment parameter that a shop's alignment computer will indicate. If your truck has positive camber that needs correcting, you will want to install the Ingalls bolts in the upper strut holes so that the bolt cam lobes face towards the engine. (Always make sure the tabbed washer points away from the engine.) This will push the top of the knuckle inwards, relative to the strut, decreasing camber. If you need additional correction for excessively positive camber, you can put a second set of bolts in the lower bolt-holes, but face the cam lobes away from the engine. Sorry, I don't have the bolts myself, so I don't know if the arrows on the bolt-heads are oriented with or opposite from the cams. It should be pretty easy to tell just by looking at the bolts themselves. By the way, adjusting toe by yourself isn't really that hard. This website describes an interesting technique.

It sounds like you'd be better off trying to find an R50 with the all-mode (full-time) AWD system. Although using 4H on snow at higher speeds won't damage the drivetrain, it's usually less safe to drive that quickly on slippery terrain.

R50 Pathfinders with the floor-mounted transfer-case lever have a part-time 4WD system with 2H, 4H, and 4L modes. There is no center differential. The low-range ratio of the part-time transfer case is 2.02:1. The gears in the transfer case can be swapped out for a 3.7:1 or 3.92:1 set for about $1500. R50 Pathfinders with the dashboard-mounted 4WD selector dial have a full-time 4WD system with 2H, 4H, 4L, and "Auto4WD" ("full-time AWD"). The center differential is disconnected in 2H mode and locks in 4H and 4L modes. Slip is allowed in Auto4WD. The low-range ratio of the full-time transfer case is 2.569:1. The gears cannot be swapped out. The stock front wheel hubs are always engaged on all R50s. This means that no matter what drive mode the transfer case is in, the front drivetrain always rotates with the front wheels. Of course, in some modes, engine power is not transmitted through the front drivetrain. It is a simple procedure to install manually-operated hubs on R50's with a part-time transfer case to reduce drivetrain wear and tear and improve fuel economy. However, it can be problematic to install manual hubs on R50's with the full-time t-case, due to the AWD logic and other technical details. As for "capabilities" of the Pathfinder, please be more specific. In what type of terrain and use cases do you plan to operate the vehicle?

Huh?!? Could you clarify? As far as I'm aware, hubs don't have a ring gear.

Hahaha! LOL. Lookin' good!

Visit this link for a pictorial installation guide.

Registration not required, but if you contact the retailer offering the group buy at this link, use this to get the discount: Coupon Code: YTSG2

For mine, I tapped into the lighting circuit for the hazard switch (the circuit that activates when you turn the parking lights on). I extended the wire and routeit behind the dash panel. Just tap into any circuit that activates when you turn on the lights. There are quite a few to choose from, but the two easiest are the hazard switch and the cigarette lighter (the lighting terminals, not the actual cigarette lighter terminals).

Try: pinnaclenissan.com courtesyparts.com nissanparts.cc

Dan, just FYI, what you just described is "Open Loop" operation. "Closed Loop" refers to the PCM adjusting A/F ratios based on feedback from the O2 sensors: O2 sensor feedback -> A/F ratio adjustment -> O2 sensor feedback -> A/F ratio adjustment (i.e. the feedback loop is closed). The PCM won't let the engine enter closed loop until the coolant temperature is 154°F.

The hitch will bolt up to the frame rails where the tie-down brackets/tow points are attached. This photo shows my old hitch (with some extra parts welded to it): This photo shows where the hitch attaches to the frame. Note that the OEM tie-down plates are removed.

There is a mod you can do to the fog light relay, which allows them to be turned on or off independently of the headlight switch position. Search for "foglight relay mod" on this site. This informative link was found among the hits. Another link Last link Whether the trigger line taps into the OEM fog light circuit, or whether it taps into ACC or any other always-hot circuit, you still need to use a relay, so you don't overload the OEM wire that you tap into. A relay uses only a few milliamps to engage a high-current circuit with its own direct-to-battery power supply.

Do not simply run aux lights in parallel by tapping into the OEM wiring. The OEM wires aren't rated to carry that much current, and will probably melt, short circuit, and cause all sorts of other damage. It's always better to run a separate circuit and relay, and using the OEM fog light wire as the trigger for the relay. More Info Here 30-amp automotive relay: terminal 30: + from batt terminal 85: + from OEM fog light wire* terminal 86: ground terminal 87: + to new aux lights *aux lights will automatically turn on when fog lights turn on. If you place a switch between the relay and the place where the wire taps into the OEM wire, you can toggle whether the aux lights come on or not with the OEM fogs.