XPLORx4

That's a great deal, then! And BTW, the Nissan hubs are 29091, not 20991.

Looks like for left-hand-drive R50's (which, unlike the Aussie R50's, have the antenna mast on the right side), it's not such an issue to use the Navarra snorkel, huh?

Run the wires along the roof rack back to the rear and down the rear hatch. Click for more pics

I actually don't know that much about Royal Purple. If all you're looking for is a performance advantage, just about any synthetic will probably help a little. In fact, if you run a slightly lower viscosity (5W-20), that could also help. If you plan to extend your oil change intervals, I would recommend Amsoil. The best thing to do is visit the forums at bobistheoilguy.com and start your research to decide which synthetic brand suits your budget and needs best. FWIW, I have run Mobil1 synthetic in my truck for quite a while.

In addition to adding a hitch, you should also consider upgrading the rear suspension with adjustable shocks and perhaps Airlift air bags to help support the extra weight of a bike hanging off the rear end. If you would like to see photos of hitches and the mounting strategies, you can study some photos at these links: Example [modified] hitch design Mounting to the frame Another example of frame mounting Last example of frame mounting

What are your expectations for running synthetic vs regular oil, and what leads you towards using Royal Purple vs other synthetics such as Mobil1, Amsoil, and Redline?

You can't always trust the photos that vendors show in their online catalogs. In many cases, the part in the photo is just a stock photo that represents the type of product that you'd be buying, not the actual part number. Kirk- go ahead and buy those hubs if you want, but be warned that they may not fit, and hopefully the vendor will allow you to return them without charging you a restocking fee. Warn Premium Manual Hubs for the R50 look like this:

Weird. Amazon shows the warn hubs #29091 for $140, and autopartswarehouse shows them for $160. Where do you find them for $96? (Or do you mean Milemarker hubs for $96?)

FYI, 3395 South African rands = 441.24815 U.S. dollars and 550 South African rands = 71.4835 U.S. dollars.

Very nice, dude It cost a lot less than my bumper did! I hope it works well for you!

Try this company, based on South Africa: FRNP40 FT NISSAN PATHFINDER 72L AUXILIARY TANK ( Relocate Spare -PUMP) R 3,395.00

I have a front ARB in my R50, and the front does bind up pretty tight when it's locked. I've noticed the steering is super heavy, and there's loads of understeer. Therefore, as a general rule, I only use the front locker when absolutely necessary, and only when traveling in a nearly straight line or when one front tire will definitely be airborne. The front ARB unlocks quite readily - as soon as the steering wheel is turned opposite even slightly - much more quickly than the rear ARB locker disengages. And to be perfectly honest, IMO, if you feel you need a front locker, you really should drive a few miles off-road with just the rear locker. It's actually quite amazing how much additional capability it provides. What type of wheeling do you do that necessitates dual lockers?

You definitely do not want to weld the front diff, or you'll never be able to make tight turns again without unlocking the front hubs (even while off-road). It will also be nearly impossible to turn the front wheels left/right while you're stopped. Additionally, a welded front diff will put a lot of binding strain on the CV joints. You'd be better off welding the rear and putting an ARB in the front (but you'd sacrifice on-road handling).

Yep, just replace the sensor. It's in its death throes. As for the high NOx readings, that's due to the EGR system being disconnected. The low HC and CO readings are good news that nothing further is wrong. Also, note that after resetting the computer, all of the OBDII 'readiness monitors' are reset as well. There are 6 readiness monitors, and at least 3 of them have to indicate "ready" in order to pass the SMOG test. It will take a few "drive cycles" for the monitors to be set, so don't reset the computer then right away get retested. Click here for an example drive cycle that should set all of the monitors. There is a series of Nissan-specific driving patterns in the FSM that you can follow as well.

All right, then, in answer to your questions, a winch bumper and winch will add a fair amount of weight to the front end. If you don't have a lift on your truck, you should definitely get one. Also get the KYB GR2 struts, which help reduce the amount of front-end bouncing when you go over bumps. Fuel economy will go down slightly, due to both the added weight of the bumper and winch and the change in aerodynamics around the front end. Your brush guard probably weighs around 50 lbs, while the winch bumper is probably around 100 lbs, and the winch will be around 70 lbs. If you use synthetic winch rope and a billet aluminum hawse fairlead, you can reduce the winch weight a little (20-25lbs.) PS. We do have snow in California, but I can choose whether or not I want to be in it. It's about a 4-hour drive away from where I live. I choose not to go wheeling in snow much these days, because driving 4 hours to experience 15 minutes of wheeling for every 45 minutes of winching in cold, wet snow gets old really fast .

The rear O2 sensor failures don't necessarily cause high emissions. Which code(s) do you have? P0136 and P0156 are for the left rear O2 sensor, and P0141 and P0161 are for the right rear sensor. If you have a code P0420 or P0430, then it means that the rear O2 sensors are detecting that the cat's are no longer doing their job, and are bad. Did the tech even do a gas reading test on your truck? If so, what were the gas (HC, NOX, CO) readings from your smog test?

If you know nothing about winches, why do you plan to install one?

It turns out that the ECT sensor is in a different location on the '98. Click here for the 1998 Pathfinder "EC" section from the FSM. It looks like the ECT is under the passenger-side fuel rail.

Even if you see photos of how somebody fitted a different model amp in that space, fitting your amps all depends on whether they'll fit in that space. My Alpine MRP-F250 measures 11-1/4"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-9/16"D, and it was a tight fit to squeeze it behind the left-side cargo panel, due to the angle of the sheetmetal and the shape of the fender. After you remove the cargo panels, can you even fit your amps through the sheetmetal openings? If not, then your particular amps may not fit there and you'll have to find a different location (unless you want to start cutting sheetmetal).

Why are you considering replacing the sensor? Is it faulty? Also, please explain what you mean by "it's just not there". Where are you looking?

Did you go to a test-only facility? If not, the shop that performed the emissions test can fix the problems. The engine emissions configuration on your '96 may be different than my '97, but you can start by downloading and reading this PDF of the engine control systems, including the EGR system. EGR function description starts on page 361 [EC-209]. The EGR and EGR-BPT valve are attached to the right side of the intake manifold, as you face the engine. (See attached photo.) Vacuum hoses connect to the valves. It's possible that one or more of the vacuum hoses are disconnected, which would cause the visual inspection to fail. There should also be a vacuum hose diagram on the underside of the hood that can help you find the disconnected lines. The rear O2 sensor error can be likely fixed by replacing the rear O2 sensors. They are located on the underside of the vehicle, attached to the exhaust pipes. The rear O2 sensor is behind the metal exhaust shield that's sticking out, to the left of the light in the photo below. There's a matching one on the other exhaust pipe.

Uh, no offense, but do you even read all of the text in the posts in this thread? That's the second time you've asked a question that has already been answered in a previous post, and this thread is starting to sound like a scratched CD. I would recommend TESTING the sensor first, rather than just replacing it. It may not even be causing your problem. However, before throwing random parts at your truck, start off by replacing the fuel filter, especially since it apparently has never been changed before.

They changed the temperature gauge (on the instrument panel) or the temperature sender? Why did you have it changed? The part I'm referring to has nothing to do with the temperature sender or the gauge. I'm referring to the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor, which tells the computer what the coolant temperature is. It's not the same part as the gauge sender. If the sensor is sending the computer an incorrect voltage, the computer may change the fuel mixture or timing. It's just something to check. If it tests OK, then look elsewhere for the problem.

It couldn't hurt. Has it ever been changed? You might need to also check the coolant temperature sensor. It could be operating out of spec, and that would definitely contribute to poor drivability. Read how to check the ECT sensor on page EC-127 here. The sensor is physically located on the top of the engine where the upper radiator hose is attached. Of the two sensors there, the ECT sensor is the one whose connector has multiple wires. The other sensor there is for the temperature gauge; it has just one wire.