XPLORx4

OMG, they're way brighter than stock! I think I got the 25-LED array in white. Like I said earlier, I'll take a pic when I get a chance. Hopefully tomorrow....

The bulbs are BA9S. I replaced both of my map lights with high-intensity LED arrays from autolumination.com. They are REALLY bright. Come to think of it, all interior lights except for the vanity mirror are now LEDs. You can also find LED dome light replacements at oznium.com. I'll try to take a pic when I have a chance.

Very nice work. Looks good! I'm sure it'll be plenty strong. Did you spray paint the bumper or is it powdercoated? I hope you plan to relocate the tailpipe (if you haven't done so already). That's the first thing that'll get crushed if you reach your departure angle.

$4K for a funky-green-interior '95 SE with over 200K on the clock? Is that a good deal?

You have the citations on your person, right? What are the NHVC violation numbers indicated on each citation? You can look them up yourself and see if you're cited for violation of existing laws and statutes. If you've been cited for the wrong law, then [that part of] your case will be dismissed. Hopefully you can contest all three citations with one court date. Years ago I was jet-skiiing on a lake, and was going too fast too close to shore. The lake patrolman cited me for that violation, and I had to go to (get this) CRIMINAL court, because it wasn't a TRAFFIC violation. Anyway, when I got to court, the judge looked at my case, and took a recess because he'd never seen that "code" in his lawbooks before. When he returned, he dismissed the case because the law that I had violated was a "lake rule" not a State Law, and therefore not enforceable by the court. Good luck, and next time be extra gentle with the throttle if you're ever near a police officer!

It depends on how quickly they wear out, or if the components are replaced as part of a suspension upgrade. Rough terrain will wear out the shocks and struts faster than smooth terrain, and obviously, the more miles per month you drive, the shorter the replacement interval is.

Nice install! Looks like you need to replace your brake fluid, though! For the switch backlight, you should connect it to a circuit that goes hot when you turn on the lights. I tapped into the wiring that lights up the hazard and defrost switches, but you could use any wire that's live when you turn the parking lights on.

No, you cannot replace a 96-99 bumper with a 99.5+ one. The mounting clips on the body are different.

Camber adjustment bolts definitely are NOT available at your local hardware store. They're a specialty fastener that is often vehicle-specific. You need at least 1 bolt per side if you need camber adjustment at all. In some cases, camber adjustment may not be needed. It depends on your truck. In all cases, after the AC lift is installed, an alignment to correct the toe is necessary, since the front wheels will be toed-in.

So, I'm trying to understand how you've got your system set up. You've got the compressor, which then feeds the 1/2-gal air tank, which is then connected to your manifold. It looks like you have a pressure switch (big grey box?) on the manifold, and a regulator for the locker. Is that right? Regarding the gear oil discharge, a simple and mess-free remedy for this is to remove the fine screen mesh plug on the solenoid to expose the threaded hole. Cut about 1/2" off the plastic pick-up straw from an empty spray cleaner bottle (degreaser, window cleaner, etc.). The O.D. of the pick-up straw is the same as the I.D. of the threaded hole in the solenoid. Screw the straw into the threaded hole. Use gentle pressure with pliers if necessary. The straw will self-tap. Then, attach a length of clear plastic aquarium tubing to the plastic straw sticking out of the solenoid, and secure it with a zip tie. Route the clear tubing to a convenient location where any discharge will exit the cabin. Here's my set-up:

Nice, stealth installation. Is it loud inside the cabin when running? I hope you ran some heavy-gauge wire to that compressor. It draws a lot of current! With that installation, I would keep an eye on: 1) the ARB air line, where it comes close (or in contact with) the compressor head. 2) heat build-up on the head, since when the cargo door is attached, there's little ventilation. 3) traces of gear oil spraying out the solenoid. What is that small tank attached in front of the spare tire mount?

The corner lights remain on when the headlight switch is in the second position as well. An advantage of working corner marker lights is that other drivers are better able to see your vehicle from the side, such as when you're making a turn into traffic. Remember, headlights and marker lights are not only for your benefit; they're also for the benefit of other drivers.

Did you get the compressor to operate an air locker or for some other purpose? If you got it for an air-locker, do keep in mind that the wiring harness ARB supplies with the air-locker isn't long enough to reach the back of the truck unless you cut it and splice in your own wires. Take into account how and where you'll run the ARB air line from the compressor to the diff as well. Also, be aware that when the air locker disengages, a trace amount of gear oil sometimes sprays out of the solenoid. As you may know, gear oil isn't the most pleasant odor to smell inside the cab. Heat generally won't be an issue if you only use the compressor to operate the air-locker. BTW, you don't need to pull up all the carpet to run wires back to the cargo area. You only need to pull up the door sill plates, the driver's kick panel, and the rear left cargo panel. The carpet pretty much stays put. There's a convenient plastic channel right at the edge of the carpet through which you can run wires to the rear, where you just route them over the rear fender and behind the left rear cargo panel.

Oh, I thought you said in an earlier post that the dash lights don't work. Do your taillights work? There's a fuse diagram on the back of the coin tray.

Yep, that's expensive. Labor to swap the alternator shouldn't be more than $150, quite possibly a lot less. You can get a new alternator from Autozone for around $200. Therefore, you should be able to get an independent shop to install a new alternator for you for much less than $500.

IMHO, KYB GR2

Hi Arcano, I applaud your determination to find a front swaybar disconnect solution. Which JKS disconnects (p/n) are you using? The ones I originally used many years ago required too much maintenance, and the ball joints eventually seized up. As you test your ideas, do keep in mind that if the swaybar is secured up (out of the way, so it doesn't bang into the CV axles), the effect is the same as having one side compressed and the other extended: the extended side will have the brake line bracket issue while the wheel is turned. I wish you success in whatever alternative you discover. Good luck!

As mentioned above, the front corner lights are merely "running lamps". It's possible the bulbs could just be burned out. Replace them with new 194 bulbs. If you don't have running lamps at all (including the rear taillights), then it could be a blown "parking lamp" fuse. As for securing a new corner lamp to the vehicle, if the mounting parts are broken, you may need to just attach it with double-sided tape or duct tape. Finally, if the parking lamps are working, but the instrument cluster lights are not, try rotating the dashboard dimmer dial under the driver's-side left A/C vent. If only the lights behind the A/C controls do not work, then those bulbs are likely burned out. Replacing them is simple, but requires removal of the center dash panel and the A/C control dials. If things still seem to be not working after checking the fuses and bulbs, you may need a new dash dimmer switch, or possibly even a new headlamp/turn signal combo switch.

Normally I would say change the fuel filter, but since that has already been done, it could be an out-of-adjustment sensor, one or more bad spark plug coils, or clogged injectors. It's really tough to say without a CEL code.

No, not a money thing. My ISP busted most of my site when they migrated to a new architecture, and rather than fix it all, I'll probably just move everything over to Apple's new MobileMe service in a month or two, at which time I'll completely revamp the site. (This is all assuming that I have the time to do so!)

Website is busted. No immediate plans to fix. Photos attached.

Those "bolts" are the stock bolts that are already pressed in. Max didn't "add" them. As mentioned above, place the mount in a vise, although rather than clamping it in with the vise, place it on top of the vise, and open the jaws wide enough to support the mount area around the bolt head, then find some way to hold the mount in place while you whack the bolt out through the open jaws of the vise. I used a 2-lb sledge, and they popped out after a couple of whacks. Arcano's tip about using glue or epoxy to hold the bolt heads in place is great.

Here's a great article that describes the different terms.

Those wheels have insufficient backspacing to prevent rubbing. They stick out too far, which will make the tires rub the rear of the front fenders, and possibly cause the rear tires to contact the upper lip of the rear fenders when the axle fully articulates. For a 15x8 wheel, I would recommend minimum of 3.75" and maximum of 4" BS.

The engine is likely more efficient at 3-4K RPM than at lower RPM, which would explain the MPG difference.