XPLORx4

Fueler and laxman- You should check to see that your steering rack is centered and that the bushings holding the rack to the subframe are in decent shape. If one tie rod is maxxed out, and the other has a lot of threads showing, then the rack isn't centered properly or one of your suspension parts is bent.

I take this to mean that your alignment is still toed out and that the steering wheel is not straight when you're driving straight. Are there no more threads left on the tie rod adjuster?

Are you sure it's toe and not caster or camber? Toe is adjusted by the tie rods, and shouldn't be affected at all by the strut mounting. Camber and caster... that's a different story!

Does this help?

Mr. Reverse is a Nissan master technician who posts regularly on the AC forums and (I think) here in the WD21 forums.

Well, you should note that most OEM transfer case ratios aren't close to 4:1. Most are around 2.5-2.7. Even the FJ's ratio is only 2.56. Only the Jeep Rubicon has 4:1 transfer case gearing in from the factory.

When the jeep guys say 4:1 transfer case ratio, they mean 4:1. Their low-range gearing has a 4:1 reduction, while your transfer case is 2.596:1. That's not very low for severe off-road use, which is why AC and Calmini offer 3.7:1 or 3.92:1 crawler gears for the TX10 transfer case, which has a stock low range of only 2.02:1. If you want to calculate your crawl ratio in 4LO, you multiply the first gear ratio by the transfer case ratio by the final drive ratio. Let's assume that your first gear ratio is 2.785:1. 2.785:1 x 2.596:1 x 4.636:1 = 33.51:1 crawl ratio Another [simpler] Crawl Ratio Calculator My pathy's OEM crawl ratio was 2.785x2.02x4.363=24.55:1 With new diff gears and AC's crawler gears, it's now 2.785x3.7x4.636=47.77, a nearly 2:1 improvement in the crawl ratio from stock!

If you kept the old arms, you can simply buy replace the bushings with poly's and swap the arms out whenever it's convenient for you. Nobody sells arms with poly bushings preinstalled.

How did he find out the date of manufacture was 10/1995?

Yes. The AC bushings are made of polyurethane, while the stock bushings are rubber. The major caveat to installing the AC poly bushings is that it's not easy to remove the stock bushings from the control arms and install in the new ones without appropriate tools.

Given that it's a foreign diesel model, it will have different emissions and options, which can make it harder to narrow down. If it were a North American model, I would say it's a 97 or 98 SE, based on the alloy wheels, tire carrier, step rails, and fender flares. In 99, the flares were body-colored, not black plastic. However, not being a North American model, it'll be tougher to nail down the exact year from pics alone. The VIN is the best way to check for sure.

What's wrong with your current ones?

The charcoal canister's contents are supposed to be "stuck" together in a brick-like chunk. However, the charcoal itself can crumble into granules, and those granules can be drawn into the EVAP lines that run from the canister to the engine bay, clogging them up. You can tell if the charcoal has granulized by gently squeezing with pliers the rubber hoses between the EVAP canister and the metal lines attached to the body. If the hoses feel crunchy, then the charcoal from the EVAP canister has disintegrated and been sucked into the EVAP lines, which will need to be purged. It's a messy nuisance to purge the lines of the granulized charcoal, requiring every junction between hard lines and rubber lines to be disconnected, and blasted with compressed air. And then you still have to replace the EVAP canister. On the positive side, the code you're getting (small leak) is not indicative of the condition I described above, so you may be safe!

Wow, that's a thing of beauty. Looks great!

My strategy for OD ON or OFF is to pay attention to the shifting patterns of the tranny and decide when I want to use 3rd or 4th gear myself. If the tranny shifts a lot between 3rd or 4th, or even if the torque converter slips frequently in 4th, then turn off OD to lock the torque converter in 3rd gear. The main reason for turning off OD is to prevent the TC from slipping, which generates a lot of heat. You can tell when the TC is locked or unlocked in 3rd or 4th gear because the RPM will increase slightly (approx 300-400rpm) when you give it a little more gas. If you increase the throttle even more, the tranny will downshift (RPM difference approx 1000) to try to honor your request for faster acceleration. Then, if you let off the gas to a steady cruising speed, the tranny will upshift back to 4th gear, then lock the torque converter (which feels like another small "upshift"). The tranny behaves like this: Acceleration to 60mph in D; OD on: 1st gear (TC unlocked) 2nd gear (TC unlocked) 3rd gear (TC unlocked) 4th gear (TC unlocked) 4th gear (TC locked) Under load or mild acceleration (@ 60mph in D; OD on) 4th gear (TC unlocked) Under heavier load or moderate acceleration: 3rd gear (TC unlocked) ------------------------------------------------------- Acceleration to 60mph in D; OD off: 1st gear (TC unlocked) 2nd gear (TC unlocked) 3rd gear (TC unlocked) 3rd gear (TC locked) Under load or mild acceleration (@ 60mph in D; OD off) 3rd gear (TC locked) Under heavier load or moderate acceleration: 3rd gear (TC locked) ------------------------------------------------------- Acceleration to 55mph in 2; OD off: 1st gear (TC unlocked) 2nd gear (TC unlocked) *below 50mph 2nd gear (TC locked) *above 50mph In 2nd gear, the TC will not lock below 50mph.

Nope. Those are a dealer-only item. Cost about $28

Scumbag mechanic. Next time use a more honest shop. I hope you weren't charged for the ABS repair!

Back RIGHT wheel? There's nothing EVAP-related there. Do you mean the back LEFT wheel? Courtesyparts.com usually has reasonable and competitive online prices. The EVAP canister and valve could be bad. The parts should be less than $250. You need: [14950] 14950-R50002 CANISTER ASSY-EVAPORATION [14920] 14935-R50001 VALVE ASSY-CONTROL [16618M] 16618-R50012 SEAL-O RING

"side end of car"?? Please clarify. P1440 could be a bad EVAP purge volume control valve, possibly a bad EVAP canister. EVAP purge volume control valve is mounted above the driver's side strut tower inside the engine compartment, connected to the intake manifold via a short bent hose. The EVAP canister is located behind the driver's rear wheel well, tucked up under the bumper.

Yeah, it depends on whether the mechanic removed the tie-rod end from the knuckle (what you're describing) or removed the tie rod from the tie-rod end. Only a completely idiotic mechanic would loosen the tie-rod from the TRE.

You have been fed a line of BS. Replacement of the CV axle should NOT require an alignment unless the mechanic who worked on your vehicle was an imbecile and removed the tie rods when he shouldn't have. However, if you have doubts about the alignment because you have just purchased it, it's probably good to get it aligned for peace of mind (but not because of the CV shaft being replaced).

Hahah, you mean one of the deeper water stuck-ings!

Some X owners backed out at the last minute due to work conflicts and the one X owner who did come decided to ride along with his non-X-owning friend instead of driving his X. All of us on the trip are associated in some with with the X club. whether we own X's or not.

This is probably the deepest water I've crossed yet! Remember, I'm running a Jim Wolf Pop-charger! No snorkel for me! Pics here

Dude, please don't answer that question, or if you do, reply in private. I don't want to know! TMI!