XPLORx4

Could be a worn inner tie rod end, ball joint, swaybar bushing or swaybar endlink.

What he means is TJM used to make bull bars for your truck, but they stopped building them several years ago, and the only ones in the US now are probably installed on trucks. So, if you want a bull bar now, talk to your local welding/fabrication shop or take your chances with the known-not-so-good quality of Kennesaw Mountain Accessories bull bars (link).

As Tyler explained, a traction bar is simply a type of trailing link that bolts to both the frame and the axle (usually the top or bottom of it) in order to control axle wrap on leaf spring suspensions. (A leaf spring not only suspends the axle, it also locates it under the frame.) Axle wrap is caused when lots of torque causes the axle to rotate and twist the leaf springs into an S shape. Axle wrap can also cause wheel hop, resulting in reduced traction, among other things. That's why they're called "traction bars". Read more about axle wrap and traction bars here. FYI, coil sprung suspensions do not need traction bars because, unlike leaf sprung axles, the springs only suspend the axle, while the links locate it under the frame.

I bought the JDM HID headlamps at Max4x4, 48 Ben Lomond Crescent, Pakuranga, Manukau. The Nissan dealer in Auckland sent me over there. The HID set I got was pulled from an imported R50 that failed NZ safety inspections due to rust, so it was chopped up for parts. At the time, it was the only pair of HID lamps in the country. Knowing this would likely be a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity I couldn't pass it up. (We just added the cost of the headlamps into our "holiday" expenses; our NZ trip was 3 weeks: 6 days on the North Island, 14 days on the South Island.) You should give them [Max4x4] a ring to see if they have anything for you.

Here are some: left right low beam high beam left lamp left lamp (rear view) aim adjustment switch

US$2000 was my cost at a junkyard in Auckland, NZ. That was the complete headlamp assembly, ballasts, wiring harnesses, etc. The only thing I had to do myself was figure out the headlamp leveling wiring and adapt a switch to operate it.

Let's just say that they are the most expensive mod I have ever done to my truck. More, in fact, than both of my ARB lockers and on-board air system combined! It's a shame that the 96-99 headlamps are not clear, so this guy's HID conversion kit won't work. Projectors don't work all that well with patterned glass headlamp lenses.

Why $70 and not $40 or even $20? The HID projector lenses and ballasts themselves cost in the hundreds, so I doubt he'd last very long selling them at a loss.

Yes. The JDM HID projector cutoff is higher on the left than on the right, which does tend to shine into oncoming traffic. Each lamp has this horizontal cutoff pattern: -----\____ Fortunately, I can aim the headlights downward (using the motorized aiming mechanism) to mitigate this, but it would be nice if the cutoff were reversed: ____/-----

Here: http://www.izntrbl.com/contact_us.php

Google for "schneider cams".

Click here for the latest

Do you mean rotor diameter? If so, the extra surface area would make a big difference in braking performance.

I have a set of powerstop cross-drilled and slotted rotors installed on my truck, which runs 32x11.50R15 GY MTRs on steel wheels, and the new rotors with high-performance Akebono ceramic pads work much better than the OEM brakes did. Prior to the upgrade, the brakes could not apply enough force to engage the ABS under severe braking. Afterwards, the brakes had no problem getting the ABS to engage. Here's a pic: I bought the brakes several years ago from a website that appears to no longer exist, so you will have to do your own research on where to get the best deal.

I would take a look and see what parts are bolted to that bit of metal. It's not structural as far as "frame" strength goes, but you might lose rigidity where the fenders, grille, corner lamps, and headlights attach if you cut it off. If I recall correctly, the bit you're referring to is part of the fender.

I don't know what metal part you're referring to.

That would be preferable, but unfortunately, no kits fit the R50 because of the P/S pump bracket's proximity to the oil filter

I didn't know that there was a GR2 shock application for the Pathfinder offered by KYB. News to me. I don't think anyone here has them.

The Pathfinder does not use struts in the rear, it uses shocks, so your group buy wouldn't apply anyway. The guy who quoted you $79 does not know what he's talking about.

RD24 is the correct part number. All R50's use the 33-spline H233B (same as the gen-1 Xterras, 00-04). There's a chance that a vendor somewhere can get a hold of p/n RD24, even if ARB doesn't have it shown in their current US application chart. From the application chart (page 6), it looks like possibly RD135 is the replacement, but to be certain I would contact (call) someone at ARB USA to confirm what's different between RD24 and RD135.

It might be interesting to make a skid plate out of plastic, sorta like this: UHMWPE skid plate idea My stainless steel skid plate is pretty banged up.

There is no convenient load-compensation headlight aiming mechanism on Pathfinder headlamps that do not use HID projector lamps. The headlamp aim must be set manually by adjusting the screws on the headlamp itself.

I don't have any pics handy at the moment, but here's how I have my switches: 4 switches above coin tray (lower left dash): UL:Toggle on/off roof lights UR:Cruise Control LL:Dash/Instrument Panel Dimmer LR:HID Headlamp horizontal adjustment dial (Note: I disconnected the "security" flashing LED socket from this section to make room for the HID adjustment dial.) Between the switch panel described above and the steering wheel tilt adjustment lever: IPF mouse-style switch (adhered with 2-sided tape) 5 switches on the lower center dash (below radio), left-to-right: Rear wiper Driver's seat heater Passenger's seat heater Two-way switch to rotate undercarriage camera left/right Aux battery connect/disconnect (Cig Lighter) 3 switches in front of the A/T gear selector lever, left-to-right: ARB air compressor Rear ARB locker Front ARB locker NOTE: not all model years have the same switch blank configuration as my '97. Later model years may have changed the orientation and/or number of switch blanks available to install aux switches. I think later model years don't have the three switch blanks in front of the AT shifter.

I bought the battery here. Alternatively, you can search google for "Odyssey battery". Manufacturer's website

Well, I know for sure the p/n for the '97 will work, so that's your safest option. I don't know when the switch to the new part occurred.