XPLORx4

Last year my rear swaybar broke in half while driving in my home neighborhood. I guess years of off-roading finally wore it out. Since its removal, I haven't noticed any worse handling than it already had, since I've been running without a front swaybar for 5 years now anyway. The rear swaybar doesn't really contribute that much; it's quite thin. Don't worry about it.

Yep. Here you go: http://xplorx4.com/gallery2/v/pathfinder/calmini/

Rear window deflectors were optional, and possibly even deleted from later model years, especially on the LE. You can easily order one from the dealer and install it yourself. Unlike the earlier models' factory-installed deflector which mounted to the rear hatch sheetmetal, the accessory deflector bracket replaces the rear glass hinges (same as the QX4). It's a simple bolt-on.

Just tap into the OEM foglight wire instead of the provided switch to trigger the new relay, then you can use the foglight switch on the stalk.

Hmm, I guess my 97 Pathy is safe. My VIN ends in 179024, outside the range of affected VINs.

Under the dashboard? Drop a coin in a defrost vent lately? Probably just a loose heat shield. If the rattling goes away when you change the RPM (press both the gas and brake simultaneously), it's just a resonant vibration, and nothing to worry about.

If it is indeed a P/S line (and it sounds like it is if you constantly recognize low P/S fluid), you can very likely purchase a replacement from a Nissan dealer (online or brick&mortar). For online sources, try nissanparts.cc, nissanparts.org, or courtesyparts.com.

Yeah, stock rotors and pads will be fine with 31" tires. I lost effective ABS functionality for emergency stopping on pavement when I got steel wheels and 32" MTR's, which is why I upgraded.

This kind: Powerstop Rotors

If you're using the stock XE 15x6.5 steel wheels, you'll need to replace them with wider wheels (recommend 15x8 with 3.75 to 4" backspacing) to fit 31" or larger tires. Your XE also has tall 4.363:1 gears, intended for use with small tires, so you will definitely feel the difference in reduced acceleration with 31" tires. The ABS system won't get confused at all. The sensors are on each wheel hub. It will just think you're going slower. ABS works just fine on my '97 LE with 32" tires, although to get it to engage, I had to upgrade my front brake rotors.

My local dealer charged me $400 to R&R the driver's side manifold on my '97.

Yep, it grinds the flywheel and starter pinion gear, which isn't really a good thing. It could also damage the flywheel or flex-plate. Don't make a habit of it. It can help to look at the RPM gauge before turning the key.

Before you do anything to the IACV yourself, you should take it back to the mechanic who did the work. It is unlikely a mere coincidence that this error code appeared immediately after having repairs done. Incorrect timing can influence engine speed. I wouldn't try randomly adjusting stuff yourself; you might make things worse.

It doesn't need to be overnight. Disconnecting the battery long enough for the radio to lose its presets is usually sufficient to reset the PCM, too. 15 minutes is more than adequate. Why do you want to reset the PCM to "factory defaults"? Short-term and long-term fuel trim settings get re-learned as soon as you start driving again, and they're constantly adjusted anyway.

LE rims are 6.5" wide, and will not fit 31" tires. SE rims are 7" wide, so they can fit 31" tires. 4" BS on an 8" wide rim will work just fine for up to 32" tires. (I have had 32x11.50R15 BFG AT mounted on 15x8 with 4" BS and 32x11.50R15 Goodyear MTR on 15x8 with 3.75" BS). Both combo's have worked out fine, with minor trimming. 31" tires will be even easier to fit.

Nothing to worry about with those low-current devices.

I think my starter motor is dying. When I turn the key, about 60% of the time, all I get is a single "click". After a couple of attempts, it'll fire up no problem. The battery terminals are clean, and I have no reason to believe that the electrical connections have loosened or deteriorated, but I can certainly check them. But this sure sounds like a failing starter to me... I checked at rockauto.com, and they list the solenoid separately from the starter motor. Is it advisable to replace the whole starter motor (which I assume includes the solenoid), or is it enough to simply replace the solenoid (assuming it's not difficult to replace). Please offer your opinions or advice.

Considering where he lives, perhaps rust/corrosion is the issue. Rust-welded nuts, bolts, and other fasteners make things much more difficult.

Should be nothing different except the output. The Quest alternator is more powerful, but if you don't run a bunch of electrical accessories, stereo, lights, winch, etc, then it's probably not necessary. Your truck (if your avatar is a recent pic) looks pretty stock.

It's a little late to ask now, isn't it? You should've selected the equivalent of a Nissan Quest alternator, which puts out 110 amps. The OEM Pathfinder alternator only puts out 90. Not sure what the rating is on the Bosch you're having installed. Oh well, maybe next time.

How long the drivetrain will last really depends on the frequency of preventive maintenance performed on it. Obviously, if you only change your oil every 30,000 miles, then it probably won't last as long as an engine that's had new oil every 3000-5000. If you've never changed the tranny fluid before, don't expect too much more life out of it. However, with proper and regular preventive maintenance, the VG33 engine should last well over 200K miles, and the tranny should also live a long life. Myself, my '97 LE has about 158K miles on it, and I don't expect to repair or replace major drivetrain components for quite a while, since I take good care of my vehicles.

A low battery won't trigger the warning lights to come on. In fact, you could technically remove the battery from the truck while the engine is running, and the truck would hardly notice the difference. Usually, when the alternator dies, 3 lights glow: BATT, BRAKE, A/T TEMP. The warning lights probably came on because the A/C draws extra current from the electrical system.

x2.

You don't need to replace the ABS tone ring if you're only replacing the rotors and reusing the existing wheel hub. I had to replace the wheel hub, so that's why the tone ring was removed and reinstalled.

If all you're doing is replacing the pads, you don't need to remove the caliper mount. In fact, you don't even need to remove both caliper bolts. You should be able to get the pads off with only the lower bolt removed; you just swing the caliper upwards and secure it in that position with a wire hanger or bungee or whatever. The pads should be pretty easy to remove. They're just held in place by spring clips. Pry them away from the rotor, as if they're hinged closer to the center of the rotor. (Don't try to slide them out.) If you have to, use a slotted screwdriver or similar implement and a few light taps with a hammer to pop them loose. Brute force is not necessary. You don't want to accidentally damage the rotor.