XPLORx4

Whether you can fit the amps you own behind the side panels in the storage area really depends on the size of the amps. When I was planning my audio system, I knew that I wanted to use the body cavity behind the left cargo panel to mount an amp, so I took some measurements of the space, and then searched for an amp that would fit there. (BTW, the factory Bose amp is mounted in that space.) I was willing to sacrifice on power output in order to keep the amp mounted out of the way. I managed to fit an Alpine MRP-F250 4-channel amp there, and with a little custom bracketry I made out of some sheetmetal from Home Depot, I was even able to use the Bose amp's mounting brackets. You'll need to start by seeing if your amps will physically fit in the body cavities, then fabricate some way to mount them there.

Both Tire Rack and 4x4parts.com both have pretty competitive pricing on the GR2's.

Actually, a sawzall would probably work well, too, provided there's enough room, and you have a few blades to burn through.

Sounds about right. The bolt is rust-welded to the metal collar inside the bushing. When that happened to one of mine, I ended up having to use a die grinder to completely cut apart the end of the link. It took about an hour of grinding to get through the outer metal of the control arm as well as the bushing collar and bolt. Sucked. Fortunately, I had a new control arm to install in its place.

Only the 96's had the underhood EVAP canister. 97's and up have it under the rear bumper.

Minorly important. They're basically there to keep mud, debris and water from getting into the strut mount, helping to prevent rust or damage to the strut nut and mount. Since you live in a dry climate, it's probably not important to worry about rust in there, but you should at least take a peek in the mount and clear out any pebbles or mud chunks that may have fallen in.

Go pick up an inexpensive Bernzomatic torch at Home Depot. They work great.

No, my struts are not longer. When fully extended, they're the same length as the OEM. The old OEM strut "shrunk" back into itself partially when it was removed, but the KYB GR2 gas-charged strut fully extends. That's why they have different lengths in the photo. You basically can't get longer struts, because then the suspension would droop too much in the front when the wheels are off the ground, and over-extend the CV joint, causing it to self-destruct.

Yes. http://www.xplorx4.com/gallery2/v/pathfinder/mods/struts/

You mean 1995 Pathy. If you try to fit an '05 Xterra axle under your truck, be aware that there's virtually nothing that's compatible with the Pathfinder, so it would be a ton of very expensive custom work. Plus, the rear end isn't even a Nissan part, it's a Dana rear end, and they have gained a bad reputation for exploding because they use inexpensive parts that aren't strong enough.

105,000 miles is when the timing belt on a 3.3L engine should be changed, but since you have the 3.5L fortunately you don't have that to worry about. You need to find out exactly what services are performed for $880. All too often, it's basically an oil change and a series of inspections that can be done yourself if your eyes work and you have a list of things to check. At that mileage, I would be doing the following things: oil/filter change new air filter new spark plugs new distributor cap/rotor new spark plug wires tranny fluid change front/rear diff fluid change brake fluid flush/bleed coolant flush rotate tires inspect accessory belts (replace if cracked) inspect brake front pads and rear brake shoes (replace pads or shoes if they're almost gone) There's probably more that needs to be checked, but basically you really need to know when the last time that major service was done to determine if it's worth it to do a "105000 mile service". It makes little sense if you've recently had any of the above services performed. But again, you need to find out exactly what's covered in that $880 fee. If I had to guess, it won't include much of what's described above, in which case you should have the service performed at a reputable independent reasonably-priced auto repair facility.

And that's for using at a public restroom, I hope, and not for wilderness use. White paper flowers in the forest suck.

The spiral cable probably looks a lot like this one for a Lexus IS300:

31x10.50's will fit on the SE wheels without a lift.

R50 QX4's don't have rear discs, either.

Yes, I know that there is NOT a rear disc brake conversion available.

The factory lug wrench doesn't always fit aftermarket wheels and lugs.

In that shallow storage bin, I used to store a 20' 2"x20,000lb. tow strap, winch controller, ARB snatch block, 6 feet of chain, D-ring shackles, and a hand-winch in there. I now carry the tow strap and jumper cables there. Except for the hand-winch (which stays in my garage) and the winch controller, I have moved all of the other recovery gear to the rear seat where the bottle jack was stowed.

When I replaced the lower control arm bushings, I didn't raise the truck off the ground or remove the wheels. However, I did do only one side at a time. It's risky to remove all of the control arms at once, because they are what keep the axle in place under the truck. If you remove the control arms, the axle can rotate and possibly let the springs fall out, and then you'd have a really big problem.

Hahaha, and it only took me a minute to read it! Sorry to hear of your troubles, dude.

I bet the yard you got it from was mistaken, if you didn't have to make any modifications to the chunk they sent you. And BTW, did you mean the front or the rear is LSD?

If you want live OBDII sensor reporting and code reading/resetting without having to use a laptop, you should consider the Scan-Gauge. I have one in my Pathy, and another in my Mazda. Here are some more links to opinions: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16796 http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...p;hl=scan-gauge http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...p;hl=scan-gauge

If you decide to run synthetic fluids in your diffs and t-case, I recommend Amsoil. It's not cheap, but it's reportedly very good, and should last much longer than conventional oils. I'm not sure that I would use Amsoil in the engine, though. It's pretty expensive to replace every 3-5K miles. The other fluids have much longer change intervals, so the "cost-per-mile" is much better.

I think synthetic ATF runs about $6-$9 per quart. Non-synthetic ATF varies at prices from $2-$4 per quart. I haven't heard of any leaking issues that resulted from the switch from standard to synthetic ATF.

It depends on how much longer you intend to keep it.