XPLORx4

Removing the snap ring doesn't allow the hub/rotor to slide off. If you're only replacing the CV axles, you don't need to do that. Once you've got the 6 bolts removed from the inner CV, and the snapring off the outer axleshaft, place jackstands under the frame. (You'll see some diamond-shaped plates on the bottom of the frame, just behind the front wheewell.) With the front suspension fully unloaded, remove the 3 nuts holding the lower ball joint to the A-arm, then swing the A-arm down and away. This will allow you to maneuver the CV axle out. You may need to turn the steering one way or the other for more clearance, also.

Well, he's had over a year to get his facts straight. I'm pretty sure he doesn't still hold to that.

:confused: Huh? Brent is wrong? About what? When/where did Brent say the R50 has an R180 front diff? Simon, what do you mean "You were right"? About what?

The front is probably clunking because you have 1.125" of spacers installed.

Another solution to running the wires from the roof to the interior is here: --> click me <--

Running 33" tires with 4.636 gears will make the Pathy feel much slower to accelerate, take longer to brake, and will probably require a heavier right foot to maintain typical interstate highway speeds. Since you have a '96 XE, unless you have upgraded to 4.636 gears from an SE, you're running a 4.363:1 final ratio, which originally was intended to be used with 28" tires. If your Pathy is an automatic, you will probably find that overdrive is useless to sustain a reasonable freeway pace. The net effect of all of this is that you will see a pretty substantial drop in fuel economy. Not only that, but your speedometer/odometer will read up to 18% too low, making your perceived fuel economy even lower. As with any tire size increase, the additional tire weight and diameter put extra stress on the suspension and drivetrain, so you may find yourself replacing suspension parts more often due to wear. The H233B rear end is plenty strong to push 33" meats on the road, but the front CV axles, steering rack, and tie rods may be not be able to withstand any type of "aggressive" driving you might be used to with your current configuration. In other words, you'll have to take it slower, be more careful, and be easier with the right foot. If you don't use too much wheelspin and drive carefully, 33's shouldn't overstress anything and cause it to break. Only a handful of R50 owners have installed tires 33" or larger, and it remains to be seen how well the R50 steering and suspension can take the extra stress.

If you do repack the bearings, you will need a pair of new inner grease seals. They're about $12 each at your local auto parts store.

Yup. You've got the idea. However, a bearing repacking tool forces all of the old grease out of the bearings as it's replaced by new grease. Unless you use a parts cleaner to completely remove all of the grease from the bearings, you shouldn't just apply the grease with your fingers. There are two types of bearing packing tools I've seen. One is a container with a plunger, the other looks like a pair of funnels connected with a threaded rod. You can find an example of both versions here. Your local auto parts store should carry at least one type.

Grease lubricates the wheel bearings. The grease eventually starts to wear out, gets dirty, or gets contaminated with water. When this happens, you repack the bearings with new grease. I forget the recommended maintenance interval. The process of repacking the bearings requires dissassembly and removal of the outer hub, removing the brake caliper assembly, removing the outer bearing, sliding off the brake rotor and hub, removing the inner grease seal and inner bearing, cleaning everything up, repacking the bearings, and reassembling it all. It's not especially difficult, but it is time consuming and pretty messy. Click the following links for some pics: Bearing Repack Hub Replacement (similar procedure)

Another thing to note about AWD vs part-time 4WD on the Pathfinder. AWD, of course, can be safely used on pavement (as well as snow). Part-time 4WD, on the other hand, should NOT be used on pavement, and may have poorer performance on snow, especially when turning, since the front and rear axles are locked together, and at least one of the front tires will be forced to slip. Also, the AWD t-case has a stock low range of 2.569:1, while the part-time case is just 2.02:1. You should be aware that if you ever plan to swap the t-case gears to a lower ratio (3.7:1 or 3.92:1), the gears only fit the part-time case.

Dude, you can find a set of snap-ring pliers for 15 bucks, and a bearing repacker for about the same., so it's even cheaper than that!

It might also be brake fluid. Remove the drum and inspect the piston for leaking. If it's not the brake piston, then it's your axle seal. Bummer.

Actually, that's not true. Tire wear is can be affected by worn-out shocks and struts. Worn suspension components can cause the tires to become cupped. More info here.

The "diversity antenna" is an antenna that does not use the normal antenna connector. It uses the standard mast antenna as well as a secondary antenna embedded vertically in the center of the windshield glass.

The harnesses must NOT all be wired properly, or your speakers would be working. Was everything working before you took apart the dash? The 2-pronged thing with the red tape on it is your "diversity antenna". You need an antenna adapter such as this one. Is this HU the one you have? You probably need some kind of harness adapter to convert the JVC outputs to the Nissan audio harness to get the speakers working properly, such as this one.

If I get an OBW, I've already settled on the Mobi Arc 150 because of its size. The PPW is much larger. I just need to decide if I really need to have an OBW, considering I've never even struck an arc before...

:confused: :o Huh? They sure do have springs! How do you think the rear axle is attached to the frame?

That's pretty much what I suspected. TJM will probably give them the same deal as AC, except AC has orders placed already, and this place doesn't. I don't know why you think AC shouldn't make some kind of profit on items it sells to our "niche market" community. I suppose you think they should be selling stuff at cost, no wait! below cost, with free shipping, huh?

Ahh, well, unfortunately for us, "economy of scale" is something we have working against us R50 owners, huh, not just for poly bushings, eh? Johnny joints have a HUGE potential market base. When they're able to sell hundreds of them, of course the cost per unit goes way down. Such is the state of things as an R50 owner.... :sniff:

I'm partial to blue. I once saw a really nice late-model R50 in a fantastic sparkly blue color that was so nice to look at, I followed it on the freeway for a few miles. It was a shade darker than WRX/STi blue.

What does he perceive as "looseness"? There are lots of other suspension components that will improve handling than bushings.

Not yet! They've only been in for a couple hundred miles, but I greased 'em up really good, so hopefully they won't squeak!

Probably is those bushings, but what about:

Which front bushings does he want to replace? The OEM swaybar bushings are rubber, and there aren't any alternatives. The front A-arm bushings are also rubber, and 4x4parts.com sells a complete set of polyurethane replacements for both front A-arms for $73 that you can see installed in this pic: With the poly bushings, steering response and braking became noticeably tighter than before, since the poly bushings are much firmer than rubber. Also, since my truck has larger tires that tend to rub the front fenders, they used to rub a lot in 4WD/Reverse or when braking with the wheels turned. Now they do not. However, it was a pain to remove the original front bushings. I had to burn out the rubber, sawzall through the remaining outer metal collars of the bushing, being careful not to cut through the A-arm, then use an air-chisel to knock them loose. The rears pulled off by sticking them in a vise and twisting the A-arm off. Installing the new bushings was a breeze.

Hmmm. Well, give them a call and see if they've got 'em!