GrimGreg

Jack it up and spin the wheel, if the CV axel spins too, the hub is locked in.

Makes a great Secret Santa present too! (Thanks again Pezzy!)

Rags, lots and lots of rags, lol.

I ought to run some through my 93, it is getting kinda laggy on shifting when cold.

A growling noise is usually a wheel bearing, or other rotating part noise. A shifting would give you a clumking sound or bump feel.

Sometimes switching to s full synthetic on a higher mile engine can cause leaks that weren't there with conventional oil.

Unless you are doing a divorced T-case setup at the same time.

Did the belt squeal? I've hit puddles and had my lights flash on just for a moment, it's usually from the belt slipping and is just fine afterwards. If they came on and stayed on, the alternator is done.

Wider tires have a greater contact patch than a narrow tire.

If the LCA was that rusty, the bolt is probably rusted to the sleeve in the bushing. Maybe cut it out?

Why are people freaked out about welding a gas tank? If you have it drained and the pump assembly out of it, if there were fumes that ignited, it would just burn, not explode since it isn't a sealed container.

Cool, shoe horn that in there and close the hood, I wanna see it

Be sure to spray the mounting bolts with PB Blaster or similar spray, I busted 2 bolts removing mine the first time. It now has self tapping screws in place of those holding it on.

It "should" be OK, but if they set the alignment wrong due to a worn centerlink, then putting a new one in would cause it to be off. The change (if any) would be in the toe. I would swap it and see how it feels/looks, and go from there. I would deffinately wait until after all the parts are replaced before getting another alignment though, if you are planning to change them. Worn ball joints can greatly effect the alignment.

Try thinking before you speak, makes understanding a little easier. As was stated, subject is a reapeat, and all the issues have been gone over before.

4x4parts.com There should be a thread about installing a bodylift somewhere. The actual lift is easy, it is fixing/expanding stuff that gets to be a chore.

The few importers who have put them up on ebay wanted like $5000+ for them. IIRC you would need a whole new fuel pump also to run the TD. If you want to source a domestic Nissan diesel, look for old Jeep CJ10s, or 1980 International Harvesters Scouts, both came with Nissan diesels SD33.

Just get a rope light and run it around the edge of the headliner all the way around.

Without going and removing one, I'm not sure of the size, but any hardware store should carry the right kind. They are just standard grade Metric socket cap screws. If it were me I would hit Lowe's and buy a couple about the right size, then test them and go back and get 3 more of the right type. They are less than $1 a piece.

I haven't had any ill effects from 2 years of running all day, on bad days, with them like that at all speeds. It is nice to just shift the T-case in and out of 4 as needed.

I installed the footwell lights in mine, they come on when you open the door, no way to turn them off besides shutting the doors.

Keep debris and leaves out of the interior ventilation system.

That slip joint in the shaft is the part you are supposed to expand for the body lift. Since it almost never moves in normal use, it is a PITA to tap it out.