GrimGreg

Yeah, aside from the T-bar length, the front suspension is exactly the same. Though the steering may be slightly different, IIRC some 92 HBs had an oddball steering gear in them.

Since you are building new, just run some steel from the frame mount points, and bolt it in place. I ran 2 (one per side) 1"x3/8" bar stock back from the bumper to the upper bumper mount point on the frame, drilled a hole and bolted it in place. (My main mounts are to the tow hook locations.) You can see them in this pic:

I just yanked the wire out of the switch in the latch.

Just make sure they are for a 90+, the MPI and TBI engines have different EGR systems and the headers are plumbed different for them.

Yeah, a left hand bit can actually spin the broken stud out rather than drill through it if you are lucky.

The fiberglass bedsides they sell for the HB have a look like dually bedsides. There is a big square bump out instead of a smooth bulge. At least the ones AC sells are like that, one of the regulars on their forums from Hawaii had installed them a few years back. Fronts do fit, and do bulge out a bit, but are a much smoother bulge, more like stock.

The main thing is that it doesn't matter the pitman, you gotta drill it out.

When I took mine to the dealer about 5 years ago, they did what morpheus said and cleaned the d ring part and it worked fine again. Clean that yourself then take it in and tell them that it is the mechanism, not the D ring causing the slow or no retraction.

Honestly, you're better off to sell the 2wd truck and buy a 4wd one. IIRC, Steevo found out that although they used the same basics, he had to swap out a lot more than he thought.

If you remove the "stalk" from the column (remove steering cover, then 2 screws hold it on) and look at it, you can see a translucent side that looks like it is clipped onto 4 plastic pins. Pop that cover off and there are your contacts, 5 total; 2 high beam, 2 low beam, 1 running/cabin lights.

If you are wheeling hard you can destroy a ball joint connection (UCA, LCA, TRE, CL) on the first obsticle you hit. Normal street use 5-10 years is normal, but for offroading, every trip can be normal.

2 flashlights ducktaped to the sides of the truck facing to the rear with some red perminant marker over the lens ought to fix you right up!

Actually, the H233b is larger and stronger stock vs stock.

I paid about $600 for everything but the intermediate pipe with the O2 bung (still need to make a new one....). That was headers, Cat, and cat-back pipe/muffler.

Water flows right through a coffee filter.

I'd slap a SAS and divorced case in it. With the divorced case you can chose passenger or driver's drop.

Yeah, are you gonna cover the rot with the dimond plate, or cut out and replace with it?

Lets put it this way, if they knew what they were doing, they would have found what parts were bad while trying to align it. It's funny how many mechanics have no clue how to align anything that doesn't have cam bolts on a strut.

Looks like you would be best to completely replace the rear of the frame. The roll pans can be replaced completely with new pieces, or cut and patched in. I had to rebuilt one of mine by the back door, wasn't to difficult.

Was it the step-brother, or his employee off roading it?

You'll chew up tires like crazy if you see a lot of road use. Otherwise not a bad thing.

Hocky pucks will rot and crack, it's a famous redneck lift, but also famously unsafe for stability.

Find a shade tree with a nice thick limb and get a come-along.

Was there any wobble before that happened?

Did you make sure to bleed out all the air this time around? What does the temp hit if you let it idle for about 15 minutes?