GrimGreg

I welded some patches and screwed others in. Rather than siliconing mine, I just covered the entire inside of the patches with fiberglass. On the undersides I just layered undercoating over the edges and screw ends. Sealed so well, I had to drill drain holes when my floor boards filled with water .

I broke a Snap On extractor on the rear passenger stud on mine. Tried drilling it for an hour and got nowhere. I just installed the headers without that stud. No leaks so far... As for the engine mount, mine had no clearance issues either. Remember to get the headers loose on the heads and fit the crossover, if they are tight you'll fight the crossover for fitment. Mine slid right together.

Yeah, the main + of the TDs is they can puddle jump without fear of frying ECUs.

What kinda holes?

Notice the cracking in the sound deadener in mine behind the hole? Yeah, mine was much worse than what you see in that picture, that was taken as soon as I pulled the carpet out, there was more rust and missing floor board once I started digging at it.

That is Mike's (ACs owner) HB. He doesn't say what flares it has, but I would guess Bushwackers. Here is a link to his page about it: https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/project.php?project_id=14

I don't see any flow out of the injector when it isn't running? So maybe my terminology is wrong, it looks like it isn't spraying properly .

I have the same gauge, it needs the part with the sender to be grounded in order to operate properly. One way is to attach the T directly to the hardline. Another way (what I did) is to solder a wire to the T-fitting and bolt the other end to the body or frame. If you need different parts, hit Lowe's, they have a good selection of brass fittings.

Yeah, if you have holes in the rear, you probably have them in the front. The exhaust runs right under your feet, and when the floor board rusts out the sound deadener starts burning up. Pic of what my 88 looked like under the pedals, you can see the back end of the Y-pipe:

Yeah, just use an extension and follow where the wire tube goes through the gaps in the manifold.

BTW, might I add that when I first saw the title of this, I thought maybe you bought steering gears from Pezzy .

Make 2 A frames and lift the body off. There was a thread around here somewhere where they rolled and then replaced the body, maybe someone can find and link the thread.

Trying to track down my surging issue I pulled the air cleaner off and took a look down the TB while it was idling and it looked like it was pouring gas in rather than spraying. Would that be a leaking injector? My ECU isn't throwing any codes, so electrically it thinks it is fine. Is there a way to bench test the spray? My surge developed one day after I had a fusable link replaced. It was sitting idling for about 5 minutes and the engine died, after that it was hard to start and ran rough for about 30seconds before dieing. Did that 3 times then it started right up like normal and developed the surge after running for a minute. Now it will start right up and run with the surge, it continues even when reved. Cap, rotor, coil and wires are a year old. I'm planning to swap out the plugs and gut the pre-heater on the TB so I'll have the TB disassembled soon. My best guess as to my problem is that one cylinder is getting more fuel causing the surge.

I have heard horror stories of even good pitman arm pullers breaking in attempts to remove our arms. Maybe a lot of heat, some PB, and an couple good side hits with the BFH before the puller is used would be advised?

I like that, same idea, but no tools needed (aside from making it that way). Most discos I have seen cut the drop bar in half and had a sleve with a pin.

Yeah, 88 did make one out of plastic IIRC. He had a write up on it once upon a time.

Usually even with both lifs and 33s you need to cut that area. I think you would clear 32s OK.

I'll add this too; I have heard of more than one person have weld issues where the pipes meet the flange for the head, as well as needing to get the flange machined flat on the Thorleys. They are a little stouter (.02 thicker tube IIRC), and have more coating options, but aren't really better in the quality stand point.

Look at the right truck in my sig pic (88 with 31x10.5x15tire,15x8 wheel with 3.75bs, no lift) I am rubbing the fender by the door/firewall in that pic.

I had no trouble with them on my 93.

Just remember, the further out you go, the more fender you need to trim by the firewall with larger tires. Also, there is a lot more resistance in turns the wider set the wheels are, that translates to more wear on the steering components, the weak link on our trucks.

Just remove the front, it's worthless. Even with 5" of lift on my 93, mine doesn't roll and different with rear only. I have both removed on my 88 and it has tons of body roll, but I kinda like it. On the rears, if you want a quick disconnect option, just unbolt one end link, takes 5 minutes.

Yeah, the Grabbers were stock, and complete crap (had a second hand set that were OE on a relative's Pathy), I have a pic of them on my old CJ somewhere.

I'm training you guys so well!