GrimGreg

They are about $600 and up depending on who you get it from and if you get the shocks with the kit. The only real draw back of it is it lowers the tortion bars so they hang down where rocks and stuff can hit em easier. Otherwise it's a good kit since it changes the height of the diff and steering knuckles keeping things more like a factory geometry (steering linkage and front axel angles).

Me too, but I usually try and cut off the person when they are about to cut me off, hope they hit me and sue the piss out of them :contract:

They had 2 of them, but I was bad and had to charge the one I did get. I'm in Ohio. I'm repainting my rack on the 88 (I hate chrome) before I install it. I'll defineatly post a pic or 2 when I do mount it up It's a lot nicer than a lot of ones I have seen for around $200, I will say that. The bar mounts are all twist knobs, no wrench needed, same with the farring for it (so very easilly a quick removal Kris). It's got a little slant on the front and rear of it too which was something I was planning to do when I was going to hand build one.

I agree with that. :help:

Got one at Target today :cool2: Coleman 39x45 for $100 on clearance -bounce-

You made mine cry Dan

:confused: My 88 has an idiot light. Never got so low that it came on, but the former owner said it didn't like to turn off(when tank refilled) after it does come on

Depends on how long you drove without it, but if it seems fine now it should be OK.

Clean your throttle body and get a good air filter.

First thing I took off of my 88 was the sways. I hate the darn things. As for weight shift and high speed manuvering, I was going 70 (with the back end loaded with camping/wheeling gear) when some moron in an F150 merging on the freeway decided to whip right in front of me going well less than 70. I swerved hard into the next lane without any trouble.

Ball joint or UCA trouble would be my best guesses without a pic.

I have heard of others that had that trouble also.

Anything 90-93 will work for you and have the same speedo connection, 94&95 have the electronic speedo. Actually any year would bolt up and work, but you would have to make some electrical/ ECU modifications on anything but the 90-93 ones. 88-95 V6s all had the RE4R01A auto tranny.

Check out L&P Performance, they are working on a super charger kit.

Have to take a look at the local Target and see if they have them. I know Pep Boys sells one that is a joke, and the only other ones I have seen locally are the Yakima and Thule baskets. At one time I was going to make one but I never got around to it, and it would cost at least $200 for materials anyway.

Glad I moved to Ohio, I used to live in Eureka.

My Mother-in-law had hers (94 LE) replaced after the stealer diagnosed the MAF as bad. $600 for the part plus labor.

Well, I'm getting about 19.5m/g in both Pathys thanks to summer and better gas :cool2:

I'd start by having the tranny flushed, then add an aftermarket tranny cooler (inplace of the stock in the radiator one). Check the fluid on the dipstick, if its dark red, smells burnt and/or is thick and sticky then it's been cooked.

uhh... that thought that was mud? That too

Sounds like it could be the compression rod (the bar comming off of the LCA to the frame). When they start to wear they get noisey, then they break.

Do they sell the late model style tail lights (like on the new Indonisian WD21s)?

My rockers and bumper have it in my sig

Same here

The slide pins are the upper and lower bolts you remove to pull the caliper off of the disc. The caliper should be able to "slide" on them when the brake is applied and the piston moves, if not your brakes will drag.