GrimGreg

Hey, that POS rollbar actually worked

I didn't notice any more than before the lift on my 93.

For under th rear seat I would remove any and all signs of rust. Then if it's a large hole cover it with steel either rivited, screwed on with sheet metal screws or best option welded. If they are smaller holes just use some fiberglass to repair it. I wouldn't bother with a silicone sealer, I would use something more like a roof sealer on the underside at the edges if anything.

I cut out all of the rusty bits of floor that were around the edges of the hole (it goes from the door all the way to the center hump). Next I'm using some Naval Jelly to kill any rust I can't cut out. Then welding in some 1/8" steel, I'm using the 1/8" because half of the body mount is exposed from the rust, so my hope it the extra thickness will help reinforce the body mount. I'm going to Herculine the interior, so I'm not going for anything pretty, just functional and strong.

I paid less and got more a year ago with my HP Media Center M380n.

My 88 has the open floor look also. Just started fixing it this past week.

I agree on the CV binding being the cause. Mine will lurck like it's getting stuck then slipping when cranked in 4wd.

That's the actual cold air intake part I think, either that or another worthless resonator I can't remember exactly.

One new vehicle that looked promissing was the Cross Lander, but I don't think it will ever make it to the car lot. I already bought a second Pathfinder since I liked my first one so much, I guess I would go with yet another Pathfinder in the future, but 95 and older only ever. 96-04 are unibody POS, and the 05 Pathys are IFS IRS and have way too much crap inside and out that I don't want.

How about missing half of your floor boards and cargo area due to rust? My 88 had some suprises under it's carpet

The spray on liners aren't as durable as Herculiner or Durabak roll/brush on liners.

Depending on how sloppy the mud was, you might have got some muck inside the drums

Got mine for $25 at the local yard, they were just laying under the Jeep since someone took the axel off of it for me already

Canada isn't too far from Cleveland, about 2 1/2 hours from Windsor, and about 4-5 hrs from Niagra.

Another "cheap" alternative is cork, you can buy it 1/8" thick in a roll, just cut it to size and spray adhesive it in place.

Why not?

And Xterras :oops:

The frames are the same in the rear on all years and drivetrain 86-95. Was that so hard to say?

Be sure to remind him the feed is off of the low beams, the high beams use gasoline. Proof that college makes you stupid.

About the rarest color I saw was a Burgundy one. Most around here are Black, White, Champagne (usually 2 tone with grey bottom) and the Dark Green, or metalic Blue Green. Haven't seen any 90+ thet were straight up Blue, but saw a few 86-89 dark and light Blues.

My sig pic has a small view of my 93 interior, but I mounted my CB where the stock stereo amp was since all the functions are on the handset. I have aftermarket steering wheels in both trucks, as well as "tuner" style pedal covers, mostly because the pedals are too small and my foot would like to slip off of the gas. My stock tweeters in the A pillar blew, so I now have some Kicker tweeters mounted at the top of the B pillar on the 93. Put Maxima seats in the 88, and added rear 6x9s (had no rear speakers when I got it). Mods planned on the 93; install 3 outlet 12v sockets in the little blank area where the parking brake on the HB are, map lights out of a 95 pathy, more red stuff Mods planned on the 88; remove rear seats and carpet and Herculine everything, make a false floor level with the rear over the rear seat area for out of sight storage, paint everything else grey and black. Other mods sure to be done, but not planned yet.

The bang was your hubs, typical noise, nothing wrong. They disengage and re-engage when you switch directions. As for the spinning/ wheel speed difference between front and back, that doesn't sound right. Are you sure your passenger front wasn't spinning like the rear? With the open differentials you can spin one side with the other side sitting still .

Those bumpers are so common in oz. But there is a reason for it, Kangaroos!!! they are everywhere in the bush, you can even see small utes with those kind of bumpers. Roo-bars, I know just about anyone that isn't in a city has one on their vehicle there. Just wish we could get them easily here.

Can you send some of tose front bumpers our way?! Nice T man!

When you crank the T-bars you are still staying in the stock range of travel for the CVs since the bump stops limit the travel range. If you do the crank and add low pro bump stops on the top, BJ spacers or aftermarket UCAs which allow greater down travel you may start getting into binds in the CVs but even then it's only at moments of extreme flex that it may bind. The part I would worry about most is the Tie Rods since the more you crank the T-bars, the more of an angle the Tie Rods are put at. Once again still in their stock range, but not made to run at that angle continuously.