GrimGreg

JC Whitney

If you have a set of 15x8 wheels you want to part with I'll trade you a set of stock chromes:D

What he said. They both feed from the front.

I was working on a Nissan dealership about 6 months ago. I asked the service manager about it and he said mine just needed cleaned, he was right I pulled all kinds of crap from the top guide. As for year, I know the previous owner of my 88 had taken it in this past year for new latches under warantee, as Abomb1 stated it's open ended warantee on seat belts, and I think Air bags as well.

Ya, I couldn't go to harbor freight with the truck in pieces

Hell all you have to do is remove the wheel, pull 2 bolts and the brake line and they are removed. Really simple

I bought a set of ACs 2" coils really cheap. When I went to put mine on I removed the pan hard bar and shocks, and the wheels. Let the rear end sag as much as it could, and the stock springs fell out. I set the top of the new spring in first and was able to pop the passenger side one right in. The driver's side wouldn't go in so easily though. Well, being half done at that point and without a spring compresser, I used a ratchet strap. I dropped the strap down through the openning in the middle of the top spring pertch and hooked it towards the bottom of the spring then hooked the other end to my slider. Then cranked on the strap slowly while prying on the bottom of the spring to get it over the bottom pertch. The hook on the srping slipped a few times but finally it held enough to work. Gotta love redneck inginuity.

I like the 2drs better, but have a 4dr too. Really I don't care as long as they are pre 96 unibody POS!

This'll be fun/ long The 88: Cracked bezel on drivers side corner marker Manifold leak on passenger side (doesn't go away when the engines warm) Sounds like both tension rods are going bad Top windshield molding gone (someone substatuted caulking :confused: ) Rockers on both sides have a nice rust hole unedr the doors Cigarette lighter no worky (can't use my cell charger ) Lights on all the dash switches non exsistant Cracks in the dashboard, missing passenger vent outlet Vent selector stuck on defrost Seat padding in poor shape, seats covered in coffee stains Parking brake non functional (broken cable & missing pieces in side drum) Lots of rot in the rear underside area (slowly fixing that) Rear shocks and springs pretty much toast Exterior locks on doors don't work so well (drivers side anything will turn it) Tire carrier bushings shot, sags when opened, rattles when closed Rear licence plate plastic bezel missing Probaly a few more things I forgot The 93: Sagging front bumper (POS relocation brackets) Cracked drivers side corner marker, and turn signal lenses(watch out for that tree) 2 broken air box closure clips Intake tube ripped at TB (it's duct taped for now ) Bad starter solenoid (got the new part yesterday) Minor manifold leak on drivers side (goes "away" when engine's warm) Custom aluminum front skid bent, but intact 1 bent rim from offroading Vent shades on both sides comming loose Rear hatch shocks only work when it's warm Rear bumper/tire carrier (custom) needs finished (my own fault) Exhaust pipe rattles on my tow hitch Drivers side tail light and rock guard bent and broken (not visible though) Minor frame rust in the rear Broken bolts on gas tank skid(held up with counter top draw bolt) Like with the 88, I'm sure there are other things I can't think of at the moment.

Had one of mine stuck on my 88. It took the smoke wrench and a lot of "Thrust" penetrating oil to get it out.

My 93 had the gas smell thing going on. Mine was leaking around where the pump/sender went into the gas tank. I just used some RTV and haven't had further problems. BTW, there's an access panel on the rear cargo floor to get to just the pump/sender unit.

That's how I want to chop my 88, but I want to make the top able to be taken on and off. As for the tube/cage work I don't think he's done yet.

If you remember the switch, there are 5 "reeds" 1 in the center for the parking lights, 2 for the low beams 2 for the high beams. So the problem is probably the high beam connection in the switch for that side.

Cool, let us know. Like I said I almost bought a system for a Maxima off E-bay because it looked like it would work, but didn't want to wind up with a useless intake lying around.

I saw video of one snapping on a friends Frontier. In the video it sounds like a window shattering. He had the SAW T bars and was climbing a hill many other Nissans hd gone up before him of verying mod levels. He hit a little bump and SNAP, it broke under the compression. He had stock wheels and tires on it at the time I think (can't remember).

One thing I saw and thought about trying was an intake for a Maxima of the same year. It looked like the tube for between the MAF and TB had all the right outputs for vacuum lines and such that our's have. Anyone tried that route?

T bars will snap, but it's rare. Actually the only ones I've seen snap are the stiffer aftermarket ones.

An electric fan will help a lot on mpg. Mine (93 Pathy)jumped 3-4mpg. I took a trip before the swap and got 18mpg after the swap on long hauls I was getting over 20mpg (got 22mpg on a trip to Tenn, got 24mpg on a trip to DC). In town it is noticable because it only kicks on when needed and still has better milage than stock(I usually put about 16 or 17 gallons in on a fill up and get about 360 miles on that). The engine seems to run smoother without the clutch fan on the front of it also. My 88 is getting 17mpg on highway milage with the clutch fan, around 15 in town. I'll be putting an electric in it once the funds are available to do so.

In th 91 I saw them in they were bolted in place, no welds. :confused:

Looks like he's doing everything right the first time. A lot of work in that sub frame and all the other little fabrications on the frame. Can't wait to see it in action!

My "new" 88 has rust holes all over. I'm slowly getting the worst of them. Some spots are going to need cut out and new steel welded in. Probably the worst ones I found were in the front part of the rear wheel wells, both sides have rotted out so that you can see the body mount through the hole. I hit both with the wire wheel, and some rust converter, then piled on some undercoating. I'll rip it apart next spring and get some new steel in there. To cold and rainy here now to work much (especially without a garage).

Not saying it would be easy to install the brakets, the only ones I've actually seen were on a Pathy with the top chopped off. I do know where they go and that you should be able to get them in place from the access panel for the tail light. It might be easier with the tail light removed as well. Some people have done the swap so it's not impossible.

Every 3-6months? We'll see, I did the clean up on my 93, it's the original switch and it was in good shape aside from the contacts. It's been 2 months already now without trouble. Just me, but I try to fix things first, and only replace when beyond repair.

Looks good man! BTW, you didn't have to completely remove the fan shroud (and fan), you could have just pulled the screws and set it on he fan until everything else was moved around. I know that doesn't help after the fact, but might help the next person.

You can buy the brackets from a few places if you don't have them.