GrimGreg

The local one I usually hit charges $1, but it's a nice yard compared to the other mudholes, this one has gravel, and all the cars lined up all neat and in order.

Nice! I still need to go J-yarding for some things, hope I can score like that.

Nice 620s! I knew a guy in Nor Cal that had a pretty nice one he was working on. His looked a lot like this one you posted But in much better condition. Had all kinds of trick mods on it.

I've seen them go for $250 before, guess it just depends on supply and demand at the time.

Super easy, just pull out the 4 bolts out of the upper and lower hinge bases. You will want to do something to fill the holes left in the body though. Removing it doesn't affect the rear much at all actually. My 93 didn't have one, but my 88 does. I took it off to clean it up, replace te pins and bushings in the hinges and repaint it. Haven't noticed any change without it aside from it not rattling (hence the pins and bushings).

Either that or take appart the front drivetrain and go from the bottom.

Oh, if that's what he means then the key and cylinder might both be warn out. Mine acts funny sometimes also, but if I pull the key out and flip it over it usually works fine...

Could be the brushes in the starter are worn out.

Manual or automatic?

It's the width that'll really add to the feel of lost HP. The wider the tire, the larger the contact patch on the ground, the more friction there is between the tire and the ground.

Had a wire get bare and ground for my fuel pump, kept blowing fuses till I found the wire though.

The only time I take mine off of AT is towing and when I'm offroad. Otherwise it'll kick in to power mode when I need it to anyway.

Just buy the rubberized undercoatting spray and use it in place of theblack spray paint. It won't scratch or wear off as easily.

All you have to do is pull the mounting base off of the front ends and trim back the end of the tube, it's just thin aluminum, the bases connect to the tubes with a single screw. The hardest part will be making the bottom of the mounts flatter, since there is more curve in the exterra roof in the front.

All the button does is allow the tranny to shift into 4th gear (OD). If the button is switched off the tranny will only use 1st 2nd and 3rd gears. Unlike most American cars that have a seperate shifter position for OD, if you drive with the shifter in OD all the time on those, it will destroy their trannys.

Didn't have it then ( year and a half ago)

That might fry the system!!! STOP IT! See told ya, you cry and the board crashes

My 88 has that too, just never messed with it. It would be nice to get it working though. I know the hood pin switch for it is shot, but not sure of anything else in the system. BTW, does it honk the horn when it goes off? I'm afraid to touch mine and have it get stuck on. :o

Nonono, the brackets inside the body are spot-welded to the body and then the rest of the body is spot-welded around them. The tire carrier bolts on, yes. The interior brackets with the captive nuts that the bolts go INTO, however, are spot-welded in. On the 91 the upper and lower hinge brackets were bolted in on the inside. I know, because I unbolted them and removed them from the truck myself. Maybe it had been added as a dealer option on this particular truck and they had bolt in brakets for that, I don't know, but they were not welded at all.

I made my own square tube rear after searching hi and lo for one. My 93 had the spare tie inside, so I also built a swing away carrier on the bumper.

That might fry the system!!! STOP IT!

I hate the orange in my 88 :oops: , I need to get the white faces or a newer cluster

I opted to have them done on my 93, all but windsheild, limo on the back end and 35% on the front door windows cost me $200.

I'm with 88 on this one. The worn teeth could make it skip timming and act funny.

Never had any issues with my MIE, so never looked for another browser. (I did try Netscape about 4 years ago and hated it)