GrimGreg

Could always add your own cats to them.

First thing to check is that the shoulder guide isn't full of gunk, check under where the belt rests, it can collect crap and cause the seatbelt not to move so smoothly and hang up.

Post on NOAS, someone might want to go. They cancelled the club run there back in the late winter.

Yeah, they made Legos that used those that type of lug nut, so they shouldn't be a hard to find thing.

Mine turned colors after the 10 minute drive back to my Mother's house, but was completely burnt off after the 2hr ride to my house from her's. BTW, what have people done to shield the fuel/ breather lines from the headers? I took the factory manifold shield and put it between the headers and the lines. It was ment to be a temporary thing, but haven't come up with anything else.

The Murano is all wheel drive, but far from all terrain. They get stuck on speed bumps.

Ouch! Looks like you toasted the CV too.

Yeah, some people have bad luck with them, some of us don't. After 3 years mine are fine aside from a nice patina of surface rust. The "high heat paint" they put on them just can;t handle exhaust temps.

Yeah it was around the 90/91 year they changed the steel formula they used in the frames and they rusted out easier.

Any part store should sell standard replacements. If you are replacing all, you might have to order them as most places only keep a stock of a dozen or less in the store.

If the mechanic has done it before, it should take them about 6hrs (with a full shop at his disposal), and has all the parts ready to go. If it is his first lift, 8-10hrs.

Yeah, the lift manufacturers never noted the fact that our autos are cable linkage.... It is actually easier on an auto than a manual (I've done both).

Also check out 4Wheelparts, sometimes they run tire/wheel package deals that come out better than just tires alone. I got 31x10.5 BFG MT on a set of 15x8 black steel wheels for $610 (should have been $710, but the salesman screwed up). That price included mounting, balancing, and valve stems. At that time the BFG MTs were $135 a piece and the wheels were $38 a piece.

Very good idea there, I changed them on both of mine when I got them because there was no record of when they had been done and were at a milage that was close to the recommended interval. My wife had a 94 Hardbody (used freebe in 98) and the belt snapped on it (week after we got it), it cost $6k to get fixed because the motor was completely toasted. Usually it only trashes a couple valve if it snaps while running, but it looked like no one had ever changed the oil in that motor, so a complete motor swap was the only option.

I put springs on mine, drive thrus hate me

Somehow your drain isn't working if it is coming out on the floor (FYI it is running into your fan motor too). Try running a long zip tie up the drain tube, maybe it is pinched or reclogged.

Not sure on R50, but on WD21, you remove the glove box and the resistor is right there in the air exchanger housing. The one in the WD21 is about $36 from the dealer, again, not sure if they used the same one.

Not sure on the autos, but for the manual control, the cam to turn the flap is on the driver's side up under the dash. My 88 slider doesn't work so great anymore, so I reach up and turn the cam rather than use the slider.

35s, goodbye rear doors, lol.

Think that might have been asked before? Tons of posts on tires and lifts and everything else here.

Down where it is it can also get smacked easily. I see you have a roof rack, I suggest finding a mirror mount and clamping it to the rack. The more centered over the roof, the better. If you are looking for a way to run the wire, you can either go up the A pillar (open the door and look at the retainer on the windsheild, you can loosen it and tuck the wire there), or up the B pillar (hide it under the plastic to the top of the rear door and out through the gap).

It might be the MAF or the wiring to it, my 88 is having an issue with that. It will start up and the engine will lob like it has a miss, then die, or just start up and die right away. When I wiggled the wires to the MAF while it was running, it leveled out, wiggled them again and it died instantly. The MAF is the black box attached to the side of the throttle body on the driver's side.

Sure it is the belt and not the bearing in the alt?

Tis all good, but I think it is pretty obvious that a solid rear axel won't turn.

Just silly Canadian chicks and "funny" guys in Texas...