02silverpathy

Dude IS adding strut spacers and it makes sense that new long bolts do not fit going up...the clearance between the strut insulator parts and the coil with its bushing is really tight. If he hammered out the current studs, they may not even come out of their holes...they may be punded loose, but never be able to get removed due to these clearances...so yes you will have to compress--remove strut retaining nut--remove studs from little insulator hat looking part to drill out slightly and add new bolts --re assemble--install w/new strut spacer. Here is the big question----XPLORx4 (and others) where in the strut assembly did you install your spacer? ---- I added mine inside of the strut assembly rather than on top. My way indeed adds more support to the spacer however causes me to top out the strut quicker.

"Strut retaining nut" And...Whoa dude...def compress that spring before removing that nut....that shh will shoot holes through stuff! Compress the spring far enough that you can wiggle it inside the strut assembly---that is a pain in the arse with AC spring due to rate length and number of coils~~ask my bud Sammy!---but this is for sure that way to not get injured when removing that nut...likewise I actually insist on covering the assembly up with furniture blankets and such when working on the stuff so that worst case this shh does not have the same impact on my body parts! Stuck nut---grind that baby, but leave the other two slightly attached so she doesn't drop the whole axle down violently and bang up your CV boot....the boots are in the most jepoardy here so maybe even cover them with somthing so that if the strut assembly kicks your arse and you have to set it down during installation/removal the sharp/heavy strut bottom will not cut your boot(s). Asa far as hammering the stud out after the nut side is ground down...ehh should not hurt as long as you use like a 3/8 extention to direct the force right onto the stud and not just wail away at your strut tower! Lol, pm'd my phone number if you want to call...will try to make my self available--am up pretty late at night!

That is pretty sweet! HFX...I made one out of plexi glass and it is pretty sweet too...I want to make another one that is taller and would reach all the way to the hood so that it blocks off more of the engine heat. Mine sits on top of the glued/caulked seam between like the strut tower, frame rail area and the engine bat and uses a pressure fit style mounting, resting against the OEM hood pin sensor (looks like it is for an alarm), which is just to the left of your heat shield in the pic. In fact my whole shield sits just to the left of yours and stops smooth with the sturt tower edges (how's that for a long drawn out description!). I know that, with my Scanguage, air intake temps change about 15 degrees with my style heat shield vs. no heat shield...but if not moving it is near worthless. Here is a sweet question....after making an intake out of the put together pieces at Autozone...what can you coat that "bling chrome" with to help reflect heat and insulate?

I per wheel or 1 set of two bolts should be fine...you'll just drill out both holes a little on each side and install your camber bolts in the top strut opening. You'll drill the top hole so that the camber bolt can be a little more workable and the bottom hole so that you can tilt the wheel a little further out. Get the 2 degree ones for sure!

Holy Cowfinder those are cheap O2 sensors!!! That may be the find of the year!!

OOPs, I stand corrected! You were the QX4 I had in mind! I think then that there is no one with a knob that unlocks their hubs....the reason for all this mess is that your RIG identifies slip and grip (to some degree) and continuously adjusts 2wd or 4wd, so.....it needs its pump to provide instant reaction. If the "pump" is truly electric, then can't this be bypassed to run on another manual switch? Then with the error codes just keep then so it does not try to spin the front CV's?? I thought that this pump was driven by the front shafts then selves and this is what leads to problems. If I am not mistake didn't all-modes also come standard with the LSD 4.6's? or aybe in the 3.5 R50 they were still 4.3's with LSD?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~It all has to do with All-Mode...not manny or automatic transmission~~~~~~~~~~ If you can switch into 4WD with the lever than you can use manual hubs....if it is auto on the knob than you must keep the stock auto hubs. In QX$'s there was a combo for a while that had a knob and the lever at the same time...these folks were safe for hub AFAIK.

I just installed GR2s from having OME's and the GR2s are night and day better than the OME's....they are smooth and strong...go for them!! XPLORx4 is right the fit and finish is perfect!!

Butterfly's---Morpheaus (a Nissan tech that is here on the board) states that very few Pathfinders ever had this issue...which by the way is not the engines fault or the rest of the truck, but the intake manifold. My truck at just over 50K had all screws tight and had some weak form of loctite on them. PCV---If you read out there this is a notrious problem with more than 1 vehicle in the world...."breathers", "swirl valves" etc came into play because PCV's are a terrible design in nature not just in Nissan. Specifically, this truck has an admitted problem and has an updated valve cover to cure this woe. When checking my screws, Inoticed a medium dark bronze color of oil all throughout the intake manny, so I cleaned it, the PCV, and added a filter inline to prevent further trouble. Maintainence---I would have to ask if you run high quality oil & in the correct weight, high octane fuel, and injector cleaner in your vehicle....though I am not trying to bash ANYONE this is a high performance engine and must be treated as such. Even Acura NSX's need premuim attention--just not as much as any Ferrari this is what makes them a real quality supercar. I use 5-30 M1 synth year round in my climate and change the oil when it is dirty, not at xxx miles. Sometimes the rig goes further than other on the oil Your jeep cherokee sports' may have run forever, but are a super low tech engine with no serious horsepower or torq, let alone they had no variable timing or variable timing cams. Your fix: I would Seafoam the engine and add some to the oil to break up sludge gently. Change the oil often (1500mi) until the truck comes around. Use the premium fuel and light weight high quality oil, change the PCV or add an additional filter and maybe even that valve cover if you think it is suspect, change the plugs (if you have not), and clean the MAF sensor---but I would def not sell or pitch the rig over this. Unless the cost of fuel and what not is keeping you from enjoying life, well then you gotta do what works for you.

I bought the tool....it is pretty helpful though I have heard you can buy a tool at a regular parts store and grind down 2 of the 4 ears to fit. A good reason to get the tool is to "seat" the bearings and seals. There are specs out there about torqing the lock nut first, spinning the wheel a few times, and then backing the nut off to "---" ft/lbs. ps. the tool was just over $80 from the Snap-on man! The Parts store tool ground down is like $30 + some time!!!

It DOES take energy to make energy, however it IS about efficiency...in fact the entire notion of making Hydrogen is about efficiency. The alternator uses energy even when it is making less than it provides (regulated to make only what is necessary, but still requiring a belt to spin). If your alty is making electric from the belt turning, that is currently turning with the aide of Hydrogen combustion, it is indeed changing the EFFICIENCY of the entire cycle of energy use. While it is agreed that we are using energy to make energy, we are attempting to make a more efficient cycle....not get "free" energy. The efficiency comes from seperating water....damn near free vs. buying gas.....no where near free!

Are the bushwackers bigger than OE flares, or jsut like them?

There is an update! I drove with the coolant lines hooked back up and the heat shield pulled out from under the hood (for the open air filament intake), and gained about 1/2 an MPG...wasn't wrth it to me so I un hooked the coolant lines again and put my little shield back....I am just much happpier with th throttle on demand feeling!

I used Mobil 1 synthetic...that was expensive enough....worked OK, used Lucas transmission additive...this stuff is awesome!! Smoother/Quicker shift in just a few moments after adding it just like the bottle says...even more after several miles. Penzoil Sunchromesh is the ULTIMATE for manual trannies...lesst there is a super expensive brand that is more than marginally worth it! I have used Synchromesh for years in manuals....this stuff really really makes grinds go away!!!

Add to the advice, (yeah I broke my filter mount poo too) slide the filter either left or right then remove lines...this = no broken filter mount!

You guys are awesome! Thanks so much...Thanks to BERNIEMACK...I will have new KYB GR-2's next week sometime!!

Sooo...noise is back! Took my rig to alignment shop, this dude is a pro, he tells me that the struts valving is giving away and I should try to warranty them. Questions is now, what a er the best replacement strut?

So cool, I can reply to myself ! After using some DuPont Teflon & White Lithium spray grease and driving about 50 miles, the noise has begun to subside...I plan on reading about the combination of Marvel Mystery Oil and Lithium to see if they are happy compatible and firing away again. The part I left out in my question is to say that when these were on my 98 (about 5K) they had NO boot to cover them from elements and I live in a salt state...it would appear that this has dried out the factory grease...hopefully this does not turn into a saga that I have to lube every 6 months or I may have to replace them.

Expensive ?? Is that the word you want to use! Lol, you can do it!! You can do it all-night-long!

I did this in my 98...it really is that easy! The heat did not work well with my set, so I don't know if they had damage to the heating pads or if there is a specific wiring scheme to make them work. I would assume that mine were damaged since most heaters are just a dead short...your switch should help dictate which path the electric takes through the seat...in turn resistance/heat.....enjoy and of course put up some pics!! --------->I did use fairly good sized wire for the entire set up---I used 12 gauge as well as several fuses including one by the battery and one right at the distribution block for the seats.

From the title...my OME Nitrogen struts are making a very dull fruuump noise in turns and other stressful situations....anyone up North (ehh) or anywhere ever greased a strut before? I have read that people on occasion use lithium spray grease to lube them after Winter and such...anyone here, or are they just shot?

I'm in! Help me understand a little something though...if the truck is experiencing "low emissions" will it cause damage to the truck? I understand that this will fuel the truck and in turn use less gas...but I believe that you must fool the MAP and O2 sensors...this part makes me nervous as I do not want to cause the truck to run lean!

Yeah man, I read out there too that there is some type of small button in the door (guessing regulator) that you hold down and maually put window up (not using auto up) and this resets the "touchy" factor. On the lighter side, I have the Viper alarm add-on the puts them up and down for me...it also gives driver and passener "one touch" and driver "one touch" to all 4 windows. So, if you just tap the switch, they go all the way down and vice-versa...if you tap down and then tap down again it will start down and stop when you hit the button..again vice-versa......................if you attempt to use the factory one touch up and then interrupt it...it will start going back down!! My wife LOVES this function! LMFAO...watching here try to put the window down 1/4 way is priceless...I have even put my finger on hers to "feel" how ya do it!! Oh well, she will forever put it all the way down and then manual back up where she wants it!!

Still Jealous! Is there a filter kit for the 3.5? We do not use the same filter as the VG30, but maybe the same thread pattern....anyone? Bueler?...Bueler?.....Bueler?........

For the rear: There are oval shaped "cups" where you can safely use your jack stands...these are on the the "frame". You will need to compress the springs a little or shove the drum down until you can pull the spring out on your own....oh wait, unbolt the sway bar end links and un bolt shocks first...then you can move the axle muuuch easier!!