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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/05/2019 in all areas

  1. I snagged one today at a junkyard for $19 bucks, I couldn't pass that one up. Now time to clean it on up Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    5 points
  2. Yeah I have the stock spare underneath but I'm currently running "32s" so I would like a spare to be the same size compared to the stock 29 inch. Also I would like the swing gate to have a Jerry can on it as well like@TowndawgR50 rig Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    2 points
  3. Man that’s gonna look awesome!!
    1 point
  4. Ok, understood. That's the issue I'll be running into if I get new tires.
    1 point
  5. That's some sweet bling Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
    1 point
  6. 4.56 and 4.63 will work fine, I had that setup but 4.88 and 4.9 works much better. Get a rear chunk from an 03-04 Xterra for your 4.9 gears on the cheap.
    1 point
  7. I should clarify that the problem, in my particular case, did not start with any bulbs in the rear but after i installed LED switchback bulbs in the front corner/turn signal assemblies
    1 point
  8. I also have cruise control related issues that are connected to switching my entire rig over to LED bulbs. My cruise control works fine but cancels when I use my turn signals.
    1 point
  9. Parts companies to avoid: Dorman, mevotech, cardone, moog (used to be good but now is crap). If I have to get aftermarket I try and use beck/arnley as half the time it’s an oem looking part in the box. Or ACDelco as their parts are usually okay. Ive never had a bad oem part from Nissan, or VW for my golf. The way I look at it is, if it’s something that will leave me stranded, I’m willing to pay the extra cost for the part that lasted 20+ years. Just been my experience working on cars for 15 years and owing a pathfinder for 14 of those.
    1 point
  10. 1 point
  11. I believe it. Here's where I wish there was a catalog of OEM Accessories to find odd/rare items like those.
    1 point
  12. If spring rolls around and you are still interested in doing skids, I'd be glad to work with you to get measurements, mock-ups etc.
    1 point
  13. Yeah, jump on that. The style alone is hard to find. As for the lock...there's an integrated slot on the mount to put a padlock through it and one of the wheel stud holes. It was Nissan's way of locking it, as opposed to a simpler lug-nut lock. Given the design, you'll need to remove the "carrier" (tire mounts to it) from the "frame" (carrier mounts to it) in order to access the backside of the padlock to cut it off. Presuming the carrier didn't change much from the prior design, 4 nuts hold the carrier to the frame but you might have to get crafty reaching them around the tire. Edit: pic below of prior carrier model. Sorry I don't have the means to mark-up the image, but you can see the 4 nuts on the carrier between the vertical tubes of the frame. That oval-ish hole on the carrier is where the padlock inserts and comes through the little hole to the right, which lines up with a wheel stud hole. For anyone wanting a lock, I used a Rugged Ridge 16715.22 M12x1.25 wheel lock (http://a.co/d/1BPsRfC). If I could've found a set with 5 wheel locks, I would've gone that route.
    1 point
  14. By the "at full droop" question I believe he was wondering if the CV's bind when the suspension is completely unloaded; for example when you lift a wheel offroading. I am intrigued by the camber bolts possibly being exclusive to 2005 thing too, when I'm at the junkyard from now on I'll take a peek at any R51's they may have and report back with my findings, or heck, any one I see in a parking lot. I wonder (if the 2005 thing is true), if you can just slap the parts onto a different model year to get OEM adjustability?
    1 point
  15. Sorry... have been away from the computer for a few days. I have Yokohama Geolander A/T F015's on it. Stock size is 265/70R16 Camber bolts on my 05 are adjustable. Interesting to read Steve's comment about maybe 2005 being the only year. A quick crawl through parts lists or online parts sites may confirm that. I'm not sure what you mean by "at full droop" but my shop was able to get my alignment within spec without spacers/shims/etc. I think I'm going to add another 1" to the rear which will give me 1.5" front and 2" rear. That will give me a little more range/support when I fill the back end with gear/groceries/bricks/dogs/bodies/whatever
    1 point
  16. I might be making a limited run of adjustable or static arms if folks are interested. Just about done with this set for FerrariOwner123. 1.75" OD/0.180" wall Chromoly tube with 1.25x12 rod end adapters. Welded and turned. The post welding machine work isn't necessary but I prefer the aesthetic. Hes supplying his own rod ends but I can fabricate/supply those too, if needed.
    1 point
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