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After years of chatting about our own Pathfinder projects—and often, grumblings about having to make our own parts or hack together something—it’s become clear that Jacob (@TowndawgR50) and I (Patrick) have a common passion for our trucks. We’re always bouncing ideas around and sanity-checking each other’s work, ultimately realizing we have highly complementary skill sets that extend beyond working on trucks. We’ve also grown tired of a serious lack of aftermarket support for our trucks, especially when there’s an obvious demand to keep them on the road and make them more capable than they already are. To counter that, we’re teaming up to fill that void. That’s right: it’s time to turn a hobby into a business! In the weeks to come, we will be making more announcements regarding the status of the company (still working on the name!) and our product offerings. We’re still in the early stages of the company formation, and have some challenges ahead of us (most notably the 1,400 miles that separate us!), but we’re ready and stoked to get the word out there. If any of our individual projects have piqued your interest, then our collaborative efforts won’t disappoint. Our initial focus will be on subframe drop (SFD) kits, as this is the most important component required to move beyond 2” of front suspension lift. Unlike prior versions of kits that have existed, we intend to offer complete kits and à la carte components in multiple heights—including strut spacers—to support various lift configurations. Our particular focus is to provide high-quality finished products that simplify installation for the average DIYer (hint: strut disassembly not required), and without having to replace aftermarket components you’ve already purchased. While we won’t go into detail about all the products (and services) we’ve been discussing, we will tease that trailing arms and panhard bars (both in static lengths with poly bushings, and adjustable lengths with rebuildable joints), skid plates, missing link, and bumper brackets are on the product roadmap. That said, we’re looking forward to a productive 2019, so stay tuned!

Hello NPORA, Location: Kitsap, WA Vehicle: 2000 SE Vehicle Notes: 2nd owner as of Oct18, purchased with 237k miles Hi all, I've been trolling the forum for a couple months now and have finally decided to join in. I currently have an '18 WRX, but after moving to the PNW I found myself in need of a good forest road exploration rig so I started the search. Stumbled upon a great condition single older owner R50 that has provided a great base to build upon. The first month was spent doing the usual- oil/coolant/trans/transaxle/front-rear diff/PS fluids, all three accessory belts, fuel filter, battery, and a good headlight polish. After that I moved to replacing some stuff: - turn signal housing (1) - fog light (1) - cat-back exhaust - broken power antenna to fixed 6" stubby Since then I scored a ~5' roof basket which mounts great to the OEM rails and will come in handy for fully loaded camping trips in the future. I'd like to integrate some ditch and camp lighting into the basket and take advantage of the blank switch spots in the dash. Current suspension is okay, but aged: *RR: 31.25" (Factory Spec: 33.31) *RL: 30.50" (33.31) *FR: 32.00" (32.09) *FL: 31.25" (32.09) Therefore as of Nov2018 I have the following on order: - LR Defender springs for rear (P/N: NRC9446) - KYB GR-2/Excel-G for rear (P/N 343379) - OME HD springs for front (P/N: 2928) - KYB struts for front (RockAuto P/N: 335031/0) - KYB strut mount/bearing/boot for front (RockAuto P/N: SM5329) - Camber bolts for front, (RockAuto P/N: K90474) Anyway, I'll photo dump below. There's lots of upgrades in the future like LED gauge cluster lights and a rear drawer system, but I'm taking it slow. I'll trail run it and as I find myself needing things I can add to it. I'm in the Kitsap, WA area near Seattle so if any of you local PNW Pathfinder nerds need a hand or want to meet up I'm down! https://imgur.com/a/PiQG7TO

Well dangit, you're gonna make me go and buy another R50! This is really cool, can't wait to see your guys' products.

If Hawairish and TownDawgR50 are building a kit in the Seattle area I'd be down to check that out before anything. Always fun to support locally built stuff. Nice to have options too though.

With a powerhouse of those two working together and the amount of knowledge they both have, I’m sure they’ll r&d something in the best of both worlds between quality and design. Eager to see what they have in the works too! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey all, don't know if this has been posted on here yet. Thought it may interest some of you. A local Vancouver (BC) company that makes beautiful front and rear bumpers has just started selling a weld together front bumper kit for the R50. I've seen their work in person on a number of other vehicles and can vouch for their quality and excellent design. Here's a link: https://www.coastaloffroad.com/product-page/r50-nissan-pathfinder-high-clearance-front-bumper-kit Also side note, anybody know who's truck that is in the pics? It's a beaut!

The bolts have a narrower shaft with an eccentric inner lobe of the same diameter as the strut hole, that allows the offset to adjust based on the clock position of the bolt head. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

No Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/6750-05408384.html?utm_content=DN&utm_term=1996-2004%2C+2013-2014+Nissan+Pathfinder+Alignment+Camber+Kit+AC+Delco+45K18036+Front+96-04%2C+13-14+Nissan+Alignment+Camber+Kit+1997&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4oKl3q_13gIVjR-tBh2P_wRCEAQYAiABEgIRIPD_BwE&ad=47433949932 Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

It won't taste right but it can be lol. I love gluten

I can’t wait to see what you guys do. I would love to do a SFD. [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Read the end of the initial post. RHEC!! RAISE HELL AND EAT CORNBREAD!! Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Dumb question from the Canadian: what the hell does that stand for?

I'm gonna try and make it work. Hell yea bubba

I actually measure the back window for a decal for my business and it as I recall isn't 4 foot wide. I would go with the smaller 25 inch decal. FYI, RHEC! Damn straight ! Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Just as an FYI: OME Springs do not come in Heavy Duty for the rear (only the front). AC Springs are very stiff but actual spring rate unknown. LR Springs for the rear come in 2 spring rates but I don’t think we have anyone who only got 2-2.5” out of them, most have experienced 3-4”. Bumper Options (4): *ARB Sahara  *@hawairish /@TownDawgR50-2 well respected, experienced & detail oriented NPORA members who have been custom fabbing for friends but are about to announce a collaboration to provide much needed R50 specific items. See their threads-this is who I’m waiting on. *Coastal Offroad *Dustin Perreault *WAM (former Tactical Armor Group aka TAG aka Kennesaw Mountain Accessories aka KMA aka Blue Lake Offroad) Previous iterations of this company have a terrible rep but supposedly it’s designs were bought out & it’s under new management. It would be very interesting to have someone buy one & report back if all the quality control problems are fixed.

Not my 2001 SE Pathfinder Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Yeah they will get warm. I turn them on in rain to dry the water droplets. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Same here Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

Another update coming in the works. Decided to join the family and get an air locker. I’ll be installing a TJM air locker and officially be fully locked on front and rear! Also roughly another 6000 miles added since my rear set up (I know I drive a lot even for a DD) still in love with the handling and performance I’m getting. Would do it over all again if i had too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It isn't the size of the button that matters...

Last winter he was going to use my truck as his template. Didn’t happen as my engine suffered a power valve failure. His name is Brandon & he was very pleasant when we were trying to work things out. He makes pretty hardy looking 4Runner bumpers. I like the aesthetics of these but would like to see how it mounts to the unibody. I think this gives us 4 options now but I’m waiting on hawairish @ TownDawgR50’s collaboration which should be coming out soon. Bumper List: *ARB Sahara *@hawairish /@TownDawgR50 *Coastal Offroad *Dustin Perreault *WAM (former Tactical Armor Group aka TAG aka Kennesaw Mountain Accessories aka KMA aka Blue Lake Offroad) Previous iterations of this company have a terrible rep but supposedly it’s designs were bought out & it’s under new management. It would be very interesting to have someone buy one & report back if all the quality control problems are fixed.

My 2001 SE has the heated mirrors, but when I hold the unlock button down my side windows don't go down. I'm going to have to look up the years and trim level of that. My mom's old 95 Maxima did it, and I was always surprised my Pathfinder didn't. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

First off, haven’t been on here in a looong time. I picked up a C4 corvette this past summer and that has turned into the project that sucks all my time lately. Still have the R50 though. I’m running 285/75/16 mud terrains which works out to about 33x11.5 with approximately 2.5 to 3 inches of lift. There is just no way you will get 33 or larger tires on that size of lift without cutting into the metal. Personally, I took a lot of time with the trimming on mine so I feel it looks pretty clean and would not be noticeable by anyone unless you have another R50 to compare it to, but it definitely took a lot more trimming than I originally expected. I was also unwilling to accept any rub at all at full lock, so I probably cut a bit more than some who are okay with just “good enough”. That said, if your not shy about cutting I think it’s well worth it. I love the final result of the 33’s with a relatively small amount of lift.

First of all, you'll have to cut pretty much everything to make 35's fit with a 2" lift. Now, as far as mods needed got a 2" lift, all you have to worry about is the camber bolts. The rest isn't needed until you go higher. Steering shaft only needs extending when you do an SFD, brake lines and brake sensor should be ok (although brake lines are easy enough to replace with OEM parts from other Nissans; @hawairish knows the details for that) unless you go 3 inches or more, and CV angle will only be an issue with over 2" of lift with spacers at full droop. With a spring lift like you seemed to suggest you're planning to get, you shouldn't have any issues with CV binding since the suspension still has the exact same range of travel as before, it's just that the CV will be at a higher angle more often so it'll wear out quicker than normal; they should still last a good long time, but for under $200 you can put your mind at ease and reap some other benefits with some manual hubs.

I would love to lift my QX4 a few inches an put some 35s on it. It would make so much more capable off road and look great. But it seems like there are so many things to consider. A 2" lift seems to start with 2 new struts, 2 new shocks, and 4 new springs. Then there things that have to be adjusted right, camber bolts. Do you have to extend the steering shaft? What about brake lines? How about that brake sensor on the rear axle? I keep reading about possible issues with CV axle angles too. I know many (most) of y'all have lifted your R50. What are the side effects?

Yeah rigs like ours are not the norms for lifting as most of them are grocery getters. I bet that shop mainly specializes in the more popular rigs out there like 4runners and jeeps. When I got my lift, I purchased all the parts for it (struts, coils and shocks) and installed most of them myself at home. I just took the struts and coils to a shop and have them assemble the unit and when I got home I just installed them on the rig. For the rear you could get by with flexing the rear axle when the frame is on jack stands and use a floor jack to lower or raise one side of the axle up or down. I also used coil compressors that I rented from an auto parts store. At the time I didn't need camber bolts for my OME lift but after I installed 1 inch spacers front and rear on top of the OME I needed them after that. I didn't get any driveline vibrations with either setup too. As for alignments I never had an issue with it getting aligned besides the castor being out of spec slightly, but that's due to the nature of the lift.

If you want a lift, the easiest thing to do is to purchase new coil springs and shocks, then take them to the shop and tell them "hey, my old coil springs are sagging, and my shocks are worn out" and ask them to install these new coil springs and shocks that you got. If the front struts are still OK, you can re-use them, but if they're tired and worn, you should replace them with the springs, since the labor to replace the spring is the same as to replace the strut, too. You don't have to tell them that your new parts provide any significant lift. The shop you used simply isn't familiar with suspension lifts for MacPherson strut-based IFS. The only thing I have run into is that some shops refuse to install customer-supplied parts due to liability/warranty-claim issues. After the springs are installed, of course, you should get an alignment. Camber bolts (which usually correct for positive camber after lifting) may or may not be required, but the toe angle will be off. Also, with any lift, the front CV axles will be at a higher angle and could accelerate wear on the CV boots, and may potentially introduce mild vibration of the CV joints. If you want to mitigate these issues post-lift-install, you may consider installing manually hubs on the front wheels to disengage the front drivetrain while you're not using 4WD.