94pathfinder Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 is this an easy task to replace both the center link and idler arm or more a job for the shops to do? Thanks John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 (edited) is this an easy task to replace both the center link and idler arm or more a job for the shops to do? Thanks John It is not difficult if you have the correct tools. Getting them off is the hardest part, some will come out easy, some will want to be difficult. You will need a 14 or 15mm socket and wrench, a fork and a rubber mallet. I would recommend doing the tie rods at the same time and dont reuse any of the cotter pins, get new ones. You should also do a front end alignment afterwards. The OEM tie rods and center link come with new cotter pins and nuts. Edited December 28, 2009 by Alkorahil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Not hard at all, five nuts and bolts (iirc) and two TRE's (Tie Rod Ends w/castle nuts) Make sure you have a TRE Puller, maybe a pickle fork and a small mallet in case the TRE's get stuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94pathfinder Posted December 28, 2009 Author Share Posted December 28, 2009 now this will sound stupid, but where can i get a TRE puller? Thanks John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Parts store, Sears, Harbor Freight, etc... Schucks and Autozone may have ones that you can use free or rent. TRE Search Link - Should come up with both tpes of pullers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94pathfinder Posted December 28, 2009 Author Share Posted December 28, 2009 ok so i have that fork type, i think that'll be ok to do the job you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 I think every nissan with a centerlink stering can benift from a HooHaa CL. Reguardless of where or how you drive it makes things allot smoother. http://grassroots4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94pathfinder Posted December 29, 2009 Author Share Posted December 29, 2009 I think every nissan with a centerlink stering can benift from a HooHaa CL. Reguardless of where or how you drive it makes things allot smoother. http://grassroots4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1 which is true, but at the moment im just concerned with getting it driving striaght again, and i can get the parts from autozone for 200 bucks and i'll keep the two centerlinks for when i do this modification so i only pay 129 bucks for it. but yes indeed they are better but for now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 personally, living in the rust/salt area...I can't get my idler arm bolts off, and the shop had said the TRE's were a bear... Just to give you an idea, Im a 260lb guy, with a 24" or so breaker bar, and me LITERALLY putting my entire weight on the bar and jumping on it couldn't get it to budge...hopefully the shop can get it off D: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 No salt in Nevada, sand at most IIRC?? You rust belt people just can't understand a 20 year old car with no rust. It honestly shouldn't be that much of an issue getting things loose. Even with surface rust, a few wacks with a hammer and some PB blaster soaking for a few days and you are set. I didn't even need that and my truck spent a winter in Philly (I couldn't get the pitman arm off though). B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismojunky Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 yea a little heat might be needed but its really easy to do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 get this, I took a steering box off of an early 80's d21 the other day and all the bolts came loose very easily, the box itself dissasembled easliy(so far) and the gear oil in there(manual steering) looked brand new. something so old and not a single seized bolt. Just my luck because I only had tools for a much smaller job and just happened to have a crecent wrench and lug wrench of the right sizes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 Just remember to ro get an alignment afterward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 (edited) Yeah it's easy to do. Even living in the "Rust belt" my idler arm mounting bolts came off with ease and they looked to have never been removed before. Count the threads on the old tie rods and adjusters and make it as close as possible on the new ones, so the alignment will be somewhat correct. Also you should get new sleeves if you get new tie rods. One of mine was stripped Edited December 29, 2009 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 I disagree with buying new sleeves unless it comes as part of an assembly and it does not increase the price or it is bent or something. I don't believe I have ever replaced a sleeve in my life, much less seen a stripped one. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 Well mine kept coming loose, even with new tie rods on it. So I spent the 15 bucks and got new sleeves Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 Well mine kept coming loose, even with new tie rods on it. So I spent the 15 bucks and got new sleeves Maybe the lock nuts weren't tightened enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchdiggerjcf Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 I think every nissan with a centerlink stering can benift from a HooHaa CL. Reguardless of where or how you drive it makes things allot smoother. http://grassroots4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1 What's so great about a hoohaa CL? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 The stock CL flexes and cause early failure of the TRE's. The "TK1" style Center Link (what HooHaa aka Grassroots CL is based on) eliminates that flex. The steering is one of the weakest links on our trucks (WD21's - 86.5-95) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 the stock CL has a mini BJ on each end of it. these mini BJ's can allow for allot of slop & twisting. HooHaa removes the mini BJ's and replaces them with a stiff sperical bushing utilizing a larger 5/8" thru bolt. I actually replaced a new-ish CL with a HooHaa and STILL felt a good diferance. Soon to come will be my invinsible pitman arm... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 don't take it to a shop....they will charge you big bucks for minimal work :S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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