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---> Slartibartfast You are correct. After disconnecting the hot side of the resistor to a few of the random groups of 4 LED's... None showed signs of improved brightness. I figure they are shot, old age.... I replace a few groups with some high output thru-hole LED's (I had some extra lying around) and the lit up bright as normal, ready for inspection. So, I've ordered another 50 or so to finish the job later. Yes, it's tedious, but it is also fun. I'll update with some final thoughts after I get the parts and get it working back to normal stock operation. Thank you all for your help, much gratitude.

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AC springs vs stock

Got my new license plate.

The third brake light on my '93 sucked when I got it. Some of the LEDs were trying harder than the others, but they were all pretty dim. I too took it apart expecting a smoking gun (moisture, corrosion, something burned up inside) and didn't find anything obvious. LEDs have a life span like anything else, and I figured mine had just worn out over twenty-odd years and 230-odd thousand miles of urban driving. I had a good one in my parts car, so I didn't spend too much time troubleshooting the bad one before swapping it out for one I knew worked. I doubt the issue is one string drawing excessive current. I think you'd see evidence of heat or blown fuses if that was the case. I'd verify that the voltage across each string is the same as the supply voltage (to rule out high resistance in a joint or trace or something), maybe test an individual LED on 3v to see if it lights up properly, and if both of those come up negative, order a bag of red 5mm LEDs and get ready to do a whole lot of soldering. If that doesn't sound like fun, there are aftermarket ones on Fleabay. They've got red ones, they've got black-tinted ones if you like painting your lights so they work less, and they've got clear ones because Altezza, yo. I didn't check to see if Nissan still sells them, but yeah, I wouldn't be surprised.

Hi, my name is Ron. New to forum, I have owned my '87 Pathfinder for 27 years. It has been a great vehicle, many road trips, towed my boat and sand car for years and was a chase/support vehicle for a class 1 off-road racing team. It has 230,000 miles on it and the engine is very tired (go figure huh). I had to park it 2 1/2 years ago when it would no longer Pass smog. I have just purchased a vg33e engine to swap into it and joined this forum so I could seek advice and maybe encouragement. I look forward to being part of this group. Will post pics and more info. as I go. Thanks!

Replaced the battery. The single digit weather in the northeast finally did it in and starting was a no-go. When I pulled the old battery out, I saw the date code on it.... C9. Damned near lasted 10 years!

Where/how bad is the rust? If it was a Texas car all its life and just moved to Chicago, I wouldn't be surprised if metal that's been exposed for a long time started rusting. Look into an oil undercoating. Keep a close eye on your strut towers, that's where the rust tends to get dangerous on these. Hopefully you can nip it in the bud. Sounds like a problem with the transfer case, not the transmission. I don't think it's supposed to clunk, much less when going between 2x and auto (auto is only supposed to engage the clutches if it thinks the rear end is slipping, and I don't think it's supposed to clunk even then). Might be worth doing a drain/fill on the transfer and see what's on the magnet. The only way the transfer should stop power getting to the rear wheels is if it's in neutral (between 4HI and 4LO), and of course it shouldn't stop in neutral, or be trying to switch ranges at all when you go between 2H and auto. Something's not right, for sure. I flushed the trans on my '93 at around 230k and it didn't hurt it a bit. I put one of the cooler hoses in a bucket, ran it until it quit spitting old fluid, added fresh fluid through the dipstick tube, and repeated until the fluid that came out looked like the fluid I was putting in (red instead of brown).

Welcome! Texas is still a pretty big place...any idea where? The gulf regions can be humid, not to mention prone to flooding, and there's something about that TX mud/clay. Having lived in Chicago and seen the effects on a brand new car, you might want to consider some treatment options, even if that just means spraying some stuff underneath. There are some particular rust spots that should be inspected, namely the strut towers and lower corners of the front fenders. The All-Mode 4wd system I'm not familiar enough with, but a transfer case drain and refill is usually advised whenever any noise/shifting issues exist; at minimum, check the fluid level by opening the fill hole, and even stick a finger in to check the color. The transfer case and transmission have separate fluid cavities, but both use ATF. Neither need flushing; drain and refill generally fine.

Thanks for the confirmation! Happy soldering.

No snow in Knoxville. Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

New wheels and tires. Really happy with how it turned out. 32x11.5r15 Falken Wildpeaks on DX4 Gear wheels (15x8 -19mm)

I'm late to the party, but I'll echo @TowndawgR50's comment in principle, noting that my 04 doesn't have an LSV. But yes, by lifting the truck, the LSV be allowing the minimum rear proportioning available. The valve is meant to increase rear proportion when a load is detected, but the lift basically does the opposite to an extent. To restore the function, you'd likely have to move the spring arm up a few inches like Slart mentioned, but I agree that it might not matter much. I'd just as well suggest disconnecting the spring and calling it a day, or otherwise finding a way to put the lever in a static position that simulates stock-height (or a loaded position if more rear bias is desired).

Quick pic of the R50 getting some work done! It’s dirty, but honestly that’s how it lives most of it’s life...she’s more function than form! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got my first welding machine today!! Super excited. And yes, I know how to weld, just never had my own machine before. Going to school for it in a few months as well so thats a big plus

Today the title arrived in the mail. It's nice to know that after all this work it is legally mine. In Texas, at least major cities, we have to get vehicles inspected (even trailers over 4k GVWR which is a freaking pain in the a$$) before we can register them. When I was doing the title work I asked the clerk how I am supposed to drive my vehicle to get the OBDII monitors to a ready state so I can pass inspection when it is not road legal? She said I would have to get insurance on the vehicle and get a 30 day temp tag without registration. So tomorrow I start paying for insurance and I hope to get a temp tag so I can legally drive the thing if I am lucky enough to get it road worthy this weekend. Getting closer, but it is going to be a BUSY weekend. I had to pull the passenger cat after having the exhaust completed because I installed the manifold to cat gasket incorrectly. I wish junkyards could be more sneaky with the paint markings. All that's left under the hood is: -Intake manifold upper sections -computer harness from dash -belts -throttle and cruise cables -connect vacuum hoses -A/C idler -install battery -drain any existing oil and take a sample <- maybe I should have done this before installing the engine -cut open existing filter and examine <- maybe I should have done this before installing the engine -new oil and filter -pull plugs , vacuum cylinders, crank engine to build oil pressure -complete cooling system installation/radiator/fan -vacuum and charge A/C -fill all other fluids Installed new rack poly bushings. Shinny driveshafts new ujoints and balanced AND thanks my favorite junkyard for writing, in paint on the front face of the rims I purchased I have to figure out how to get that paint off without damaging the machined wheel surface. The bag of goodies...like I said, busy weekend. Oh, and I know all 8 of those rear link bolts are seized and are going to require cutting out with an angle grinder Not pictured: wheel spacers (shipped today), rear brake shoes and hardware kit, plugs...and OH I forgot an air filter