Leaderboard

How many R50s is too many? Dad's, Girlfriend's and mine... Haha I need to put my running boards back on soon too.

The trans computer's in the driver's rear quarter panel (remove the lower cargo area trim to access it). Closest box to the front IIRC. If you think that's a weird place for a trans computer, the box that controls the power antenna's mounted in that same cavity, back near the tail light. Between them is the audio amp for the front speakers (also the one for the rears, but that one makes sense). I have no idea what Nissan was thinking when they laid out the harness. +1 for checking bulbs first!

Little group trail run Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk

This is about the only time wifey rides in the Quey anymore

I love this time of year!

It's in the BRake chapter, under Parking Brake Control. There's a nut under the parking brake lever; lift it up, pop a cap, adjust nut. Lever specs 44lbs of force after 6-8 notches. Adjusted mine as part of the disc brake swap.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It was in the bottom left hand corner on the asphalt when I was typing up my post but has somehow disappeared... I would love to get some rock sliders on there, the steps do look a little bulky. Need to see what has been done on here to get some inspiration as there are no off-the-shelf products in NZ...

Mrelcocko aka Jason Cox 97 Quey Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

Mine was doing that for a while then I snugged down the screws for the valve cover.... no more "RMS" leak... which was really a leaking valve cover gasket seal between the two banks at the back next to the firewall... WaaaAAAAaaaayyyyy cheap fix!!

Yup. Love my carrier. Given that it wasn't reinforced like the earlier R50's I'd say it held up extremely well. I came off a ledge and the entire weight of the truck, rear axle at full droop and tires off the ground, landed on the hitch and tire carrier which shock loaded it. Almost the whole rig was supported by the rear carrier. It damaged 1 rivnut and bent the surrounding sheet metal.

Looks great! I think that space in the bumper is a perfect place for a light bar. My install isn’t quite as clean as yours, but here is what it looks like with a slightly shorter bar in the same spot with side mounted brackets. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just as a side note: the o/d light flash sequence is the way to get codes out of the transmission computer. There is an easy procedure in the FSM to follow, along with the descriptions of the codes and possible causes of them. But yep... probably a bulb ( I think it's a 194 that goes in there).

Well, this was a huge pain in the ass, especially in 25 degree temps, but I'm happy to report that the newer fuel sender works fine in the older Pathfinders. I bent the copper lines as close as I could to the old ones, but it was still a pain. I spliced in the new lines in right about at the spot where they make there straight run to the front after the rear wheel. They looked pretty good running up to the front of the truck from there. I'll report back after a trip when I can fill it up and see if it's off. Fyi, If you are under the truck in the rear poking around, the high pressure line is the bottom one.

Seems like you could relay it off the dome light circuit easy enough. If your dome light comes on when you unlock the doors, then yeah, there you go! I installed LED reverse lights on mine a while ago and made a video on it if you want to see how I rigged mine. Great mod, though I can't entirely recommend the LEDs I used, as the housings weren't sealed at all and required a "the bigger the gob, the better the job" application of RTV silicone before they'd keep water out.

While the security circuit for the dome light may support additional electrical current for your lighting needs, it's safer to isolate your new lighting circuit with an automotive relay that is triggered by the dome light circuit. I have considered making a similar mod, but it requires tapping into the security/dome light output on the body ECU, and making the mod hasn't ever been near the top of my priority list.

Thanks @mjotrainbrain. I feel like that one ought to be stickied. Not sure the current count of people who've followed my approach, but I think it's somewhere around 6-8 so far. Mine has held up fine, noting a minor indent on the quarter panel where I allowed the carrier to open too quickly/hard, and the need to reinforce the latch attachment area with an aluminum angle piece riveted in. It's been on several trails and washboards, has held up well. In a few weeks I'll be taking off for bedlining and I'll see how the bracket rivnuts have held up. I've also reinforced the same latch area on @Jax99's truck, though we needed to replace one of the rivnuts the other week, too. I know @TowndawgR50's carrier took damage coming down on the trail, but I suspect even an OE-braced truck may have taken similar damage in that scenario. All things considered, it works. This one isn't perfect, but there's not really any other better option, short of a custom bumper, in my opinion.

Theres a hole already in the firewall where the clutch would go on a manual. It's right underneath the brake booster, it's a diamond shape plate with 2 nuts holding it in place. Then you just run your wiring through there and into the empty slot with your switch. That empty spot I used for my back up lights Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Haha same, gonna start studying Civil engineering next year in college. Well thanks for the start, I’ll probably figure out the rest with my friend, who is much more electrically adept. I’ll keep the thread updated if I install this after all.

I’ll probably just stick with tapping into the dome lights if I can. That or give up.thanks though

that likely would be the best start point hey. thanks

Here we go, lots of good information in here: What the post-facelift one looks like:

True, though if I understand what you're saying, you still wouldn't have any light available when getting in the car. Also, I'm already going to have to go from the outside of the car to the inside with the reverse light, so I'm not sure how much more work it would save to keep the rock lights inside

If you're just looking to light up the ground rather than put light in the wheel wells where rock lights are normally put for offroading uses, I would consider putting them in the door shining down; you'd avoid running wires outside of the vehicle that way, although you would have to take the door panels off and snake the wire through the rubber piece between the door and body. Anyways, that's what I would do. I don't remember, do Pathy's have lights in the doors (pretty sure they don't)? If so, you could tap off of that pretty easily and I'd imagine it will be fine, and then you can keep all the wiring contained in the door.

2 QX4's in a row, I like it. ?

Donor truck and our 92 Pathy.

New to the forum. My son and I have a 1992 Nissan pathfinder 4x4. We lifted it with a 2", suspension lift, put 31 all terrains on it and painted it flat black. We are currently swapping the automatic transmission with a manual.

I did several things today. I finished my light bar: and I hardwired a battery tender pigtail to the battery:

Hi everybody Pedrosa from canary islands!