Slick Posted February 1, 2006 Author Share Posted February 1, 2006 i took pics of everything... according to me and the manual.. my timing pulley is at ZERO degrees, and my rotor is dead on its mark, and the RH cam sprocket is also dead on.. and the center white line in the t-belt is dead above the timing pulley dead on mark.. so the only thing that is out is the 1 cam sprocket by a tooth... here are a couple pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted February 1, 2006 Author Share Posted February 1, 2006 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 OKAY!!! NOW it makes sense!!! I thought you had the harmonic balancer, and lower timing cover off as well........Thought you were looking at the crankshaft sprocket!!! Sorry.....I'll stop being dumb now!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted February 1, 2006 Author Share Posted February 1, 2006 Alright....there's 3 sprockets. 2 camshaft, one crankshaft........I assume by your first post that 1 of the camshaft sprockets, and the crankshaft sprocket are correctly lined up. 1 camshaft sprocket is off. Is that correct? yes. the LH cam sprocket is off by one tooth from its mark.. everything else lines up PERFECTLY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted February 1, 2006 Author Share Posted February 1, 2006 OKAY!!! NOW it makes sense!!! I thought you had the harmonic balancer, and lower timing cover off as well........Thought you were looking at the crankshaft sprocket!!! Sorry.....I'll stop being dumb now!!! hehehe.. no.. haven't got that far as i am concerned about fixing this issue b 4 going any further... i have no housing mark to line up the lower end.. as i guess is most everyones case.... i noticed when we did the t-belt b 4 that one cam sprocket was 1 tooth out.. but this time i want to get everything 100% dead on... i do NOT want to be back in there again anytime soon.. nor do i need anything breaking.l and when i smogged her he said my timing was 1 degree out at 14 degrees...... i think they are supposed to be at 13 degrees? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 15 degrees BTDC.......if I remember correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted February 1, 2006 Author Share Posted February 1, 2006 15 degrees BTDC.......if I remember correctly. so.. how do i get my timing right if the manual says to have the timimg pulley at 0 degrees? this is what i didn't understand... does it automatically set itself upon start up or something? as the motor turns it changes.. cuz i know it owuldn't start at 0 degrees.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 I know when I did my 93 they didn't line up perfect either. My Step-Dad (ASE Master Mechanic) set both cams just slightly off the marks (split the differance). It actually ran better after than it had before the T-belt change . When I did my 88s with him, it lined up dead on, so they might have gotten the marks off on later models or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 Just a heads up for future reference, if you get the Nissan T belt, it already has the marks on the belt. No transfering marks, just line up with sprockets and go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 I use WhiteOut. Mark it on the teeth and belt. Absolutely fool-(luker)-proof, it's also easy to transfer the marks to a new belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 my napa belt came that way too...with marks already on it plus arrows that point away from the motor i donno what that does i guess the teeth have a pitch to them or something never really examined... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted February 1, 2006 Author Share Posted February 1, 2006 yeah.. the belt i just took off has all the bells n whistles too.. so it won't be an issue putting it back on. I am not gunna mess with anything.. just put it back together the way it came off.... the deeper i get into there.... the uglier it gets.... i am feeling some rings shot between psiton 5 & 6... here's a few shots from today.. tomorrow the cam sprockets come off and the heads... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted February 1, 2006 Author Share Posted February 1, 2006 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted February 1, 2006 Author Share Posted February 1, 2006 from all the damn bars leak there was a lot of sludge in my LH valve body.... i really think that crap did more harm than good and will be looking to find some sort of engine flush once she's back together Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 (edited) doesnt look too bad...the heads have certain spots in the 3 or 4 diff 1's i've seen get buildup in the same places i guess the oil gets trapped and doesnt drain out and sludges up now from ure pix i saw something very interesting...does any1 know if the 86 maxima lower intake is the same as whats on slicks truck? it looks exactly the same b/c it was fuel injected...if it is this would broaden up my spectrum for possible buyers when i go to sell all the intake parts off of the maxima motor i have and ure replacing the timing belt and water pump while ure in there correct? i would try to do both b/c u dont wanna break a belt it makes for a very bad day and murphey's law says if u dont change the waterpump in a month or so it'll start going out on u i did a waterpump and didnt know any better about changing the timing belt and it looked good to me but i didnt know antifreeze broke down belts and here was the result belt valves (the 2nd from the right is strait the other 3 are bent Edited February 1, 2006 by unccpathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted February 1, 2006 Author Share Posted February 1, 2006 and ure replacing the timing belt and water pump while ure in there correct? i would try to do both b/c u dont wanna break a belt it makes for a very bad day and murphey's law says if u dont change the waterpump in a month or so it'll start going out on u i did a waterpump and didnt know any better about changing the timing belt and it looked good to me but i didnt know antifreeze broke down belts and here was the result belt valves (the 2nd from the right is strait the other 3 are bent the t-belt has 3,000 miles on it and the h2o pump has about 2,000 miles on it.. so neither will be replaced. The t-belt has not got anything on it, i was very sure about that.. so it will be fine to reuse on there, along with the h2o pump. i will be replacing the t'stat, cap & rotor though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 So are you saying one of the cams was off by one tooth before you started? That would affect emission levels! And power... Good thing you're doing all this! And thanks for sharing your adventure. I'm thinking about pulling my heads this summer to drill out all the broken studs and do some very mild porting (basic bowl shaping and clean up) before I do the headers. And after you're done, don't worry too much about using any special "engine flush". Just run top of the line oils and change after a few hundred miles the first couple times. Top line oils contain verrry impressive detergent packages that will clean out that stuff very quickly. My personal favorite is Valvoline, but most other name brands are probably just as good. And of course, Mobil 1 is probably the best available for under $5/qt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 Whoa Slick, those are some manly hands. Whe'd you little rubber gloves go? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted February 2, 2006 Author Share Posted February 2, 2006 Whoa Slick, those are some manly hands. Whe'd you little rubber gloves go? those are dave's hands! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted February 2, 2006 Author Share Posted February 2, 2006 So are you saying one of the cams was off by one tooth before you started? That would affect emission levels! And power... yesh. since i've had the truck it's been like that. when i changed the t-belt and even when i pulled the motor out it was like that.. it has always been 1 tooth off.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgranch Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 It is common for these engines to jump by a tooth. I think it has something to do with the belt design. There are two different designs. One with round shoulders and one with very square shoulders. Just reset it back the way it is suppose to be when you put it back together. Did n't you recently have a problem with emissons? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 Whoa Slick, those are some manly hands. Whe'd you little rubber gloves go? maybe that's why she wears the gloves... to hide 'man hands' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 (edited) Sort of on topic question, sort of on.... I want to check the spark timing on my 95......I know "how" to do it...but.....I don't know what marks on the harmonic balancer represent what number....IE... TDC, 5 degrees BTDC etc.....If anyone actually knows this, since I've checked my chiltons, and the FSM, and couldn't find the info, it'd be greatly appreciated. Edited February 2, 2006 by Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 (edited) check the FSM page EF-EC 25 (of the 94 full manual) Edited February 2, 2006 by k9sar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 Oh sh!t!!! There it is.....I looked all through the EM section thinking that's where it'd be......IDIOT!!! Thanks K9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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